Hello all, I found a Ford truck out in our pasture a few years ago and just recently felt like restoring it. Well, first problem was the brakes were seized up on the rear so we had to drag it to our shop which was just down the road and then got it pushed in. The truck had been sitting out there for a very very long time and had many troubles. The cab was rusted out, engine stuck with water in it, and lots of other things. Well, my first thing I did was drain the oil and I got about 2 quarts of water then some oil. So I then set to taking out the engine and tranny, pretty easy process I though. Well, I got the engine out, took the tranny off, and set the engine on blocks. Then I proceeded to take the top end off. I took off the heads and the cylinders were full of water and muck. And the area under the intake manifold was all sludged up but was dry. But I soon heard from a local mechanic that it is likely the block is cracked between the cylinders and the water jacket might be rusted out. So, my question to you all is. Is it possible to fix cracks in the block, resleeve the cylinders and fix the cooling passages or is it possible that my block is just junk? Because I would like to keep the original engine. It was stamped 59-AB on the heads and has a 4 speed transmission.

Here are some pics.

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http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...k/IMGP1324.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...k/IMGP1325.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...k/IMGP0888.jpg

 

If the block has cracks then its junk. The best thing to do would be to strip it down to bare block, then get it magnafluxed to determine if it has cracks or rotten areas. I have a 1 ton 47 also but mine has a pick up box on the back. It has a flat 6 in it that is gonna change to either a 302 HO or 351M/400.

 

just finished an 8ba, any machine shop work is expensive.small cracks can sometimes be fixed
but with that much rust your mechanic is probably right about the water jackets. good luck with the project

 

Everything is just a guess, until it's been fully nspected. Rust in the cylinder on a flathead isn't a big deal, they take quite an overbore...something like .130 or maybe even more.

Some cracks in flatheads will always occur, usually around the head bolts, most are not a problem and never get fixed.

You have to weigh the cost to repair what's needed, with finding another engine to start over with...but you really need to take it in and have it inspected before you make a desicion...unless you can see something obvious that turns you off (I wouldn't let the rusted cylinders turn me off)

 

Beautiful truck! (well, you know what i mean!) Hope it works out for ya!!

 

As posted above, if you have a cracked block, I wouldn't waste any more time or money on that one. I see from the photos that there was no breather on the carb. That could be the source of the water getting into the cylinders. It may not be from a cracked block. I would clean it up real good and check it out first.

 

Hello again, I haven't done much work on the truck lately but have cleaned it up a bit and I got most of the sludge out and haven't seen any cracks as of yet. But the problem I see in keeping the original engine and transmission is that I won't be able to drive highway speeds. On the speedometer it shows the 4th gear only getting up to 45 mph and I would like to go highway speed and if I can't with the original drivetrain I might end up swapping engine and tranny out anyway.

 

The engine with a few mods wont be a problem in keeping up speed. You will probably have to swap out the tranny and change gears in the rear. Since it is a 1 ton it was built to work and haul heavy loads, not speed around.

 

Cracks from valve to valve, as long as they are small and not gaping, are okay, those are actually fairly common. Cracks from valve to cylinder, or cylinder to cylinder are not so good and require a lot of work to properly fixed, however it can be done. If you have those kinds of cracks then it's easier to get a new block.

The trans is not an issue for keeping up on the highways, since the final drive on it is a 1 to 1 ratio, you limitation weould be the rear gearing. If you are not dead set on originality, and sounds like you aren't, a rear swap would be quite fine for being able to keep up on the highway (65 MPH or so).

Good luck with the truck, looks like a fun project. Keep us updated on your progress.

 

By swapping rear end do you mean swapping out the whole rear end or just change the gearing in it? Because even though I would like to have a more modern engine and trans, I would like a flathead with some zoom zoom parts and all shined up more.

 

Swapping the entire rear. You won't have much luck finding gears for modern driving that will fit the rear that came in the 1 tons. You could easily swap it for a modern rear, say an 8 inch Ford, which is more than capable of handing the flathead's power.

 

Well, sad news. I found a gaping crack in my block today. Its in the cylinder wall where water has sat, froze, and busted. Although I had made major progress in taking apart the engine today with the water pumps, oil pan, heads, intake, and exhaust manifold removed. So, the search is on for a new engine is underway. I am looking for a Ford 302 preferably a simple engine not like the more modern ones with all the computer crap on them. And right now I need to know the vehicle to look for that can be found cheap somewhere with that type of engine, I might even think about using a 351. Any ideas?

 

Going with a fuel injected system isnt that difficult anymore. In fact you can even convert carb motors over to fuel injection. Street Rodder mag did a 302 last month. Not alot is involved and you only need a computer for the engine. As far as a 302, Mustangs, capri's, crown vics, linc conts, merc marqi, Bronco's and F150s all had 302's in them in both versions (Injected and Carbed) Although you can find 302 HO in Mustangs. A friend of mine was just telling me that the 85/86 302 are supposed to be the best to use, but your gonna run into fuel injection. As far as a 351, its gonna depend on which version you want. You have either the 351C, 351W or 351M/400. Again these are in a variety of cars and trucks dating back to the early 70's. Some people will tell you to stay away from certain ones, but then you can also interchange heads on the 351M using Cleveland Heads or even find a set of Aussie heads which are supposed to be better.

If you find the right parts, you do have the option of converting from fuel injection to carb.

If you go to a junkyard looking for engines, good running engines will all for the most part be fuel injected anyway. Some places to check out might be Craigslist or ebay.

 

Hello all again. Sorry for the long time between posts but have been real busy. I haven't done hardly any work on the truck. I have a bunch of engines out back behind our shop but they are all stuck or will take a bit to get running, I have found a stuck 360, stuck 351, a 370 and a 400 don't know if they are stuck. Of course theres a good selection of Chevy engines as well but I wanna stay away from them. But, I have been really tempted to trade this thing off for something already running and in good shape, and I know if I do I will regret it. But, it just seems like a lot of work. Either way, the truck is sitting in the shed waiting for something. Anyone have a cure for this?

 

Ah, the ol' "I wonder if I should really do this or get rid of it and buy something else." problem. As I see it, I would rather fix up something like this myself than buy something already done or partially redone. When you complete it, there is nothing else like the feeling of doing something with such an undertaking. Also the joy when someone asks if you did the repairs/restoration/modifications yourself, then go into what you did with the engine or the body.

It might seem like such a huge task to take one, but for one thing, the jailbar series trucks are not that popular due to avaibility of parts, and trucks themselves due to very limited production during the war years. I had to buy a whole new cab for mine due to the amount of rust on the cab. But I plan on fixing it up and getting it on the road someday.

I say keep it, work on it when you can or when you feel like it. Sure it might take a few years (or more) that way, but then some projects take 20 years to get done.