OK, I live in Wisconsin, it just started getting cold and I noticed when I was up north deer hunting my (2002 7.3 130,000 mi.) truck wasn't cycling up to high idle at start up. Called the dealer mechanic, and was told to check the waste gate actuator. Talked to the part dept. and was told the actuator was 450 beans. Question is; does anyone have any diagrams and/or pictures on how all of this works. I have quite a bit of mechanical experience so I'm not afraid to tackle stuff, but if I have a good idea of how something is supposed to work as well as a good mental picture it helps me more. I would assume also that there must be some diagnostic tests (hopefully without expensive equipment)
I thank all of you in advance, Jeff

 

Well i,m no expert but that would be your Exhaust back pressure valve EBPV on your turbo not working not your wastegate actuator. Others will chime in to a fix or diagnosis and welcome to FTE..

 

I really don't know much about this, but I would check this out. click here. I would think the EBPV wouls have something to do with the EBPS and tube. If you touch the brake or fuel pedal, the EBPV will close.

Good luck.

 

Tell the dealer mechanic to jump off the nearest bridge, because he's a moron...

Then, check the EPBS (Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor), but that usually fails in a way that it cycles the EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve) open & closed rapidly. I'd say check the electrical connector for the actuator first, then check to make sure it's not stuck open. Might have to do a little "percussive maintenance" on it to free it up. Then dig into the sensor in tube last...

 

Here are some pics of a disassembled WGA.
NOTE: THERE ARE NO USER SERVICABLE PARTS INSIDE

The WGA is not your problem, as others have said, the problem you are having is more than likely your exhaust back pressure valve.

any way here's the pics of the WGA









from left to right.. 1. bottom of housing 2. rod end 3. 37# spring 4. actuator rod 5. diaphragm membrane 6. housing cap with inlet for red line

 

Yeah, this is a EBPV issue- I'd take it to an Auto Zone or somewhere that'll read your codes for free, because at 40* and below the EBPV oil operated solenoid will close the exhaust flap and cause the engine to heat faster. Although I don't think it will idle higher. Check your codes, fuses, and connectors to the turbo pedistal.

 

Danny --> if it's cold enough, it will idle up when the EBPV closes. It's only been cold enough around here lately to kick the EBPV closed, but not idle up. Next time you start up (with the engine COLD), grab an ice cube and touch it the IAT sensor...

 

Joe he lives up in Wis. I bet it's plenty cold up there by now to kick it up on high idle.

 

Agreed. I was pointing that out to Danny that lives in sunny California...

 

DDDDDDDDDDDAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAmissed that sorry.

 

not to high jack this thred but let me get this straight our trucks are not suppose idle up on there own??? Because my EBPV is disconnected from the arm and the electric connection. and my truck always idles up to about 1100 when its cold after starting it. tap the brake it goes down.

 

It DOES idle up when really cold. It doesn't always when it closes the EBPV, but it's dependent on the air temps. You're truck is working completely normally.

 

ok cool thanks

 

If the parking brake switch is open on my six speed stick, the high idle is disabled.
If the intake air temperature sensor is bad or disconnected, the one that is on the air filter housing, the high idle is disabled.
The EBPV solinoid gives no readings to the ECU for determining on whether to kick on the high idle or not. They only respond to command from the ECU.
My truck will high idle with the EBPV solinoid unplugged. Plug it back in and the EBPV will close, I have it on a switch mounted on the dashboard and can open and close the valve on command without killing the high idle.
.
Recommend doing a little research on the parking brake switch and the IAT sensor.
High idle will not happen unless a few perameter are met, like outside ambient air temperature, coolant temp, oil temp and amount of idle time above or below a certain thresh hold.
Once those are met the ECU commands high idle.

 

Thanks for responding, all of you! I was thinking about checking the EBPV like the Guzzle link that miller sent, seems to be a maint. thing anyway.Kwik also has a good point. I have been looking into changing my old coolant, but haven't convinced my neighbor/mechanic to use either the ford elcor something comparable, maybe the coolant? All I know for sure is the last two years with the air temp below about 28 degrees the idle would kick up and,yes, back down after stepping on the brake. Hope you don't give up on me I can't check up on these recommendations every day. Thanks again. P.S IAT Idle air temp??