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Hey guys - thanks for all the help on my slow to crank question...(I've ordered a shop manual but until I get it - you guys are my manual!) I took the starter in for a rebuild (checked wiring, got 6.3V through to starter), but when I removed it I note it's unlike anything I've seen before. As you'll all know, it has two long thin bolts through it from the rear. Is there any trick or easy way to reseat the starter, or do you just wiggle/push it in? Aslo, there's two bolts on the end of the starter gear drive that sit in the centering cap on bellhousing - do these need to be placed up or down or does it matter?
Any help would be appreciated!
e-tek, left message on your previous post, as for starter, wiggle it in making sure that bendix, (gear drive), meshes with flywheel. starter must lay flush with bellhousing or hard or no start could be issue! pete
If you haven't already removed these 2 long bolts, DON"T. They hold the starter together, you just have to loosem them enough to remove the starter from the plate that is fastened to the engine.
If the front plate on the starter has come away from the main body of the starter, then you have to pull the brushes back in order for it to go back together.
Also don't forget to replace the small bracket that bolts to the oil pan. This small bracket I'm refering to is held onto the starter with one of the long bolts that goes through the starter, but make sure that the confiuration is right so that the bracket will line up with the oil pan bolt>
5-star - yep, those bolts are out.... but I took it in for a rebuild so I'm hoping they'll get it back together! Didn't see any bracket to oil pan - thanks for mentioning it - I'll fab something up - I wondered why it would only be supported at one end via those long bolts.
I've checked and rechecked all the connections and have double grounds. I ran battery straight to starter (prior to removing) and got nothing, which is why I took it in for a rebuild. When I got it off it looked in need!
Your guy that is rebuilding the starter will inform you of removing the 2 long bolts. These not only hold the front plate on the starter but also secure it to the starter plate, in other words the engine.
Ask him about the small bracket that is held in place by the inside long bolt, that holds the starter up and steadies it to the oil pan.
Its kind of a twisted bracket and it helps keep the strain off the 2 long bolts.
When removing a starter just undo the bolts enough to get it off the mounting plate.
The front of the starter is also threaded to keep these bolt in place as well as the front plate of the starter itself.
That way you don't have to remove it and try to reset the brushes. Get your starter repair man to show you.
Never be ashamed to ask a question, before doing something you don't quite understand. You learn that way, once you have learned the proper way then try the wrong way and see the difference, good luck and keep us posted.
I did that when it was IN the truck. Jumped from Neg right to starter and nothing...which is why I then pulled it. I had also checked Voltage at Batt (6.4V) at reg (same) and at starter (same)...when cranking (well, it wasn;t cranking, but I was pushing starter button under reg.)
Again, the 6V is all new to me, so who knows if I even really did what I think I did! Now that I write this I can't be sure which %#%# lead I used!
I also checked the batt cables today - both are thick and newer. Did an Ohms resistance check and got 0.
I pick up starter tomorrow and will be re-installing and poler/pulver - ising AFTER re-reading all these posts!!
Anything to add - please do!
The only reason I ask if you tested after pulling it off is because that would either elimate the possiblility of it jamming causing it to turn over slowly or not at all, the linkage on a flathead starter is fairly primitive and finiky. If it sat for awhile or was incorrectly reassembled/ mounted icorrectly.
The starter on my 49 1/2ton gave me greif (jamming) just after I got the truck running.
When you bolt the starter in place what your bolting it to is virtually a tin plate.
That is the reason for this small support bracket that goes from the inside long bolt to the oil pan bolt.
This takes the stress off the both bolts and plate, as you know that starter is fairly heavy.
Give Geo. Moir a call here is the part # 51-A11140 Starter Support Bracket.
These are a special made bracket engineered to fit proper and necessary, for the installation.
I would guess to say that without this part you could possibly take out the Ring Gear on the flywheel, or worse.
For what its worth to you.
Snowking - I shoulda but didn't - but the shop did and you are right - they repaired the gear mechanism which was moving too far back (and cleaned up the lead bolt which was corroded).
5 - Star - I'm gonna pull one off a parts truck tomorrow. I checked it today and there's one on it. (The parts truck i a 3/4 ton and in bad shape, but very little was ever done to it! No missing parts, original parts everywhere, it amazing really!)
As well, Just wanted to let anyone checking this thread know I got the starter back today, installed it, checked all wiring for resistance (low to none!), Polarized the regulator (!) and SHE STARTED FIRST TIME, every time and is now the love of my life (again!).
So, thanks to all you helpful and smart people out there - your help was very much appreciated!!
Make sure you take a good look at that bracket when you remove it. It will be the same one, just make sure that you put it on the same way as there is a wron and right.
That bracket is and can be an optical illusion, by that I mean you can install it wrong.
the one long bolt has to be taken out, and put throught the hole in bracket, then into the starter plate.
Just mess with it a little as they can be a little tricky. Make sure that you remove the one oil pan bolt first.
Not trying to carry on this subject, just trying to help out, and good luck and happy motoring.
Still love that truck of yours nice ride.
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