87 F150 No Start Electrical
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87 F150 No Start Electrical
No 12 Volts To The Solonoid With Ignition Switch In The Start Position.
Where Can I Get A Wiring Diagram That Would Show This Circuit?
Could Be More Of A Problem Than Just The Start. Will Not Crank When I Jump The Solonoid. Engine Turns Over.
Any Thoughts?
Where Can I Get A Wiring Diagram That Would Show This Circuit?
Could Be More Of A Problem Than Just The Start. Will Not Crank When I Jump The Solonoid. Engine Turns Over.
Any Thoughts?
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I have a 87 f150 with starting problem as well. Turns with jump to solonoid, turns with jump at nuetral safety switch, replace ignition switch thinking that was problem, but nothing. Won't jump at plug for ignition switch. Haynes manual has wiring diagram, but a mess to read. I cleaned up connections in harness at firewall, looked good with factory grease. Can't find open. What am I missing or overlooking?
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I thought about Haynes, but did not figure it would be very good. Thought I might find an answer on this forum.
This truck has a history of the solonoid sticking or the solonoid staying activated intermittantly after start. It would just keep spinning the starter even if I turned the switch off. I have just begun the diagnosis so when I find the problem I will post it.
This truck has a history of the solonoid sticking or the solonoid staying activated intermittantly after start. It would just keep spinning the starter even if I turned the switch off. I have just begun the diagnosis so when I find the problem I will post it.
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by bigal1
I thought about Haynes, but did not figure it would be very good. Thought I might find an answer on this forum.
/
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From: Sand Lake, MI
<I>It would just keep spinning the starter even if I turned the switch off</I>
When my 87 started doing that stuff, not turning over, continuing to turning over when the key is let off.
I found it was the wires in and at the large connector down under the brake booster on the inner fender.
If your truck is kinda rusty, has been driven in the salt belt check for corrosion of the wires in them connectors.
The casing on each of those wires at that connector was gone leaving the wires bare for a couple inches outside of it, not making good connection all the time through the connector plus now and then making connection to each other as they touched/laid on each other outside the connector.
I cut out that connector one wire at a time and soldered in a short section of wire buy passing it until the connector was eliminated.
Never had that problem again with it.
Now if your truck is not rusty or hasn't been driven in a lot of road salt in its life this is probably not the problem.
When you posted it continued to turn over it even if you turned off the key it reminded me of it.
When my 87 started doing that stuff, not turning over, continuing to turning over when the key is let off.
I found it was the wires in and at the large connector down under the brake booster on the inner fender.
If your truck is kinda rusty, has been driven in the salt belt check for corrosion of the wires in them connectors.
The casing on each of those wires at that connector was gone leaving the wires bare for a couple inches outside of it, not making good connection all the time through the connector plus now and then making connection to each other as they touched/laid on each other outside the connector.
I cut out that connector one wire at a time and soldered in a short section of wire buy passing it until the connector was eliminated.
Never had that problem again with it.
Now if your truck is not rusty or hasn't been driven in a lot of road salt in its life this is probably not the problem.
When you posted it continued to turn over it even if you turned off the key it reminded me of it.
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Thanks for posting the diagram. I found a break in the wire at the neutral saftey switch connector on the ignition switch side. It was the red/lt blue wire. Now to fix the connector since it broke with no wire sticking out to solder to. Do you have to have a wire terminal removal tool to pull the connection out of the plug or can you use something else? Thanks, Tim
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Again.thanks for the diagram.In my 1 hour of daylight,after work,I started to diagnose my problem.
I have 3 wires going into a portion of the tranny linkage.Is this the neutral/safety switch?
I am thinking that I may have a broader problem.It seems the fuel pump is not turning on.This may indicate that my power is being lost before the ing. switch.
Switch maybe bad.
I will keep looking and let you know.It may be the weekend before I can spend some serious time on this project.
I have 3 wires going into a portion of the tranny linkage.Is this the neutral/safety switch?
I am thinking that I may have a broader problem.It seems the fuel pump is not turning on.This may indicate that my power is being lost before the ing. switch.
Switch maybe bad.
I will keep looking and let you know.It may be the weekend before I can spend some serious time on this project.
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On an automatic trans, there is a plastic half moon shaped neutral safety switch on the drivers side. It has a four wires leading to a plug on the crossmember. If you disconnect the plug and touch a hot wire off your positive battery post to one of the prongs in the plug, it should turn over. If it doesn't and it jumps off the little post on the solonoid (rubber angle boot with red/ lt blue stripe wire), suspect the neutral safety switch or wiring in between. You can test the ignition switch at the plug with a test light. One is hot and one becomes hot when key is in start position. If you have no light when key is in start postion, suspect ignition switch or wiring. My problem was in the start wire (red/blue stripe). I'm going to bypass plug if I can't get plug apart to resolder connection. Tim
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Fixed. This truck had been sitting a while before I got it,so my mind was open to anything.The problem with NO START was the ignition switch. It had came apart.I was lucky enough to find the little spring and steel ball that went with the switch and I just put the switch back together. The contacts and all looked fine so I reassembled the switch and put the squeeze on the keepers that hold the switch together in a vise.
Somehow,the little sector gear that works with the switch tumbler had slipped out so I had to remove the steering wheel and get that back in order.Then it turns over but no crank.As long as I fed fuel to the valve body it would run. This led me to the fuel pump,and it was bad.Replaced fuel pump and then would run and then die out after a short run time.I then changed the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator,kinda hard to change the regulator,but I got it done,and it seems the problem is solved.
Thanks for all the help.
Somehow,the little sector gear that works with the switch tumbler had slipped out so I had to remove the steering wheel and get that back in order.Then it turns over but no crank.As long as I fed fuel to the valve body it would run. This led me to the fuel pump,and it was bad.Replaced fuel pump and then would run and then die out after a short run time.I then changed the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator,kinda hard to change the regulator,but I got it done,and it seems the problem is solved.
Thanks for all the help.
