Engine Temp to High?
Without towing it runs around 195 210 degrees. Generally high 190's or low 200's.
Last week while towing my 7500 lb TT in august temps and midwest flats (KY to MN) it ran constantly around high 220's and into the lower 230's (88-95 degree outside temp) towing in OD around 1900 to 2300 rpm at 65 mph.
A couple years ago going from KY to Destin FL through TN and GA and some of the bigger rollers and 1 -2 mile grades in the same august temp range it would get up to 240 + . Never broke the 250 barrier.
Is this running too hot in the rear of the engine where the sender is located? The factory gauge never moves from its normal position. I realize the factory sender is up in the front top of the engine.
I think that's too high...
I'd check to see if the thermostat is opening all the way - take it out, put it in a pot of boiling water (212 degrees) and it should open all the way.
Also, I'd wonder if the fan clutch was really locking up when the radiator gets hot.
In the old days running without a thermostat was claimed to help. Nowdays with computers when cold it would cause it to run a little rich but would it cool better without a thermo in there while towing?
I anticipate my gauge would go above 250 if going up the rockies in hot summer weather pulling the TT. Seems too hot to me as well.
Also do they make high flow water pumps for the V10, I've heard that discussed before as well for other engines.
I had a tranny temp gage that I put in my 04 F-150. I would get high reading. I mean, too high to make sense. Like 50° over normal. Turned out the sending unit loosened up. A re-tightening of everything made the temps displayed more realistic and correct.
Cooling isn't one of the problems with the V10. One of the reasons why you hear about high flow water pumps and such. You should check all the simple stuff first but even before you do that, you should check the validity of the information you are getting.

Don't do the "no thermostat" thing - when I had overheating issues on older motors, it never helped. The idea being that when the thermostat is closed (or somewhat closed) the water in the radiator cools off much more - as soon as the thermostat opens, that cooler water enters the motor cooling it off more than a constantly running stream of water. In other words, the water is moving through the radiator so fast, it doesn't get a chance to cool off.
Check the fins in the AC condensor, radiator, and tranny cooler. Check that fan clutch. Take it off, heat the coil on the front of it with a torch (CAREFULLY) and see if it gets stiffer.
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The fins are good and clean. I am confident the gauge is working since it gives good readings when normal driving conditions and only heats up when towing.
Good tip on checking the fan clutch. I'll try heating it with a heat gun instead of a torch. I'll check the thermostat as well.
I also have 4 manifold studs broke on 1 side (drivers) and 2 on the other so that project is going to start soon as well. So far it doesn't look like any leakage. I may buy the Banks headers and y pipe for $1100. They want another $500 + for the muffler and tailpipe. Dealer said about $800 - 1000
for the stud job (if no head removal). I may do it myself and put the money in the headers.
Oh by the way, I bought it at 85,000 4 years ago, and now has 90,000 . I assume the plugs are original so that jobs in que as well.
Funny thing is, I bought it for towing, not for working on!!!
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Actually it made me think that maybe a good coolant system flush with fresh coolant might be in order. Things could be getting a little gunked up.





