if not going with original bed wood for my 46 stake body. What would be the best flooring wood to use as a daily driver or at least one that would be outside most of the time. All the wood on the deck of the stake body is rotted it looks like I have to use 7 7/1/2" pieces and 2 91/2 " pieces that are 91 inches long

any help would help

Glenn

 

We have a complete set of tests on bed wood and finishes at the following links:
http://www.mar-k.com/final_summary.html (this is the final summary)
http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.html (complete information on the tests)

A few comments from these tests:
"What have we learned?

1. Most of the samples currently tested have much greater durability than the single stage finishes tested in summer of 2004. It appears that finish systems which include a durable seal or primer coat followed by protective coats of high quality exterior paint or urethane varnish will provide a durable bed wood finish, significantly longer lasting than a finish with only the top coat material. Consider one of these finish systems if a weather resistant bed wood is desired.
2. The ends of the boards are most susceptible to deterioration and failure. Be sure the ends are fully saturated with the seal primer coat material.
3. Pine seems to be more resistant to weather damage than oak.
4. Painted finishes, with proper seal or primer coats, will last longer than clear finishes when exposed to the weather.
5. Even the best transparent finishes we tested would need to be refinished every two years or less if they are frequently exposed to the weather, such as in a daily driver.
6. Most of these samples eventually failed at the edges of the boards next to the bedstrips. Two possible causes:
a. Coating thickness may have been thinner at the edges. Coatings generally are thinner at sharp edges. We sanded the sharp edges of the wood before they were finished to give a slightly rounded edge but it may not have been enough. Additional sanding of the edges next to the bedstrip grooves to about 1/8" radius may have improved the durability of the coatings.

b. Expansion of the boards due to weather changes may have caused the bedstrips to become tight against the edges of the boards. Boards were cut and fitted to the fixture in the spring of 2005, a very dry and hot year. The extreme amount of rain and snow in the last 8 months probably caused the boards to expand and possibly weakened the finish next to the bedstrips. If we had allowed more clearance for movement of the boards due to temperature and humidity changes the finishes may have lasted longer. Be sure to allow clearance between the strips and the wood to allow for expansion, especially if the wood is going to be regularly exposed to damp conditions. "

Hope this helps.

 

Not to argue with the experts, but in my '57 -Other Brand truck, I put in Oak with a varnish over it, back in the mid-70's, it too spent a lot of time outside in 100+ degre sun beating on it, and only the varnish show's signs of wear...boards are still nice and flat...but...

Keep in mind this was wood that wasn't grown as a "harvest" thing, but when you could get good wood...

Next thing for thought, is in early '90's in my '59-Other brand, I cheaped out and went with plywood floor, lucked across a damaged corner sheet of 8x5x1/2inch that I cut to 50 iches wide...I soaked the ends in linseed oil and top/bottom coated it with linseed oil as well...truck spent a good 13 or 14 years outside in rain and sun (same high temps) and still looked good.

Lastly, I've hear nothing but good things about Mar-K bed stuff, if I were the kit-kind-of-guy, I'd definitely go with them...but being a DIY'er (read tight-***), I'd just get some 2x8's and 2x10's, make sure they were all dried and had no green left in (i/e...make sure they'll soak in some water and not let it lay on top...) and treat the heck out of them and they'll probably outlive your kids.

 

thanks for the info you've been a great help stopping by a place today to see about trex decking also

glenn

 

For what its worth, I was in the lumber business for 30 years and the info from Mar K tech seems right on. However, I recently found that Trex is now making some decking with a very realistic wood grain. In my case the teak colored trex looks so close to my real teak sideboards that you cannot tell them apart from six feet. Only problem is the trex will probably weather to a grey patina over time . But its really tough and will stand lots of daily use and still look decent. The real teak will stay teak colored as long as soaked yearly with teak oil. Also, make sure the Trex is well supported: it does not have the bending strength of real hardwoods.

 

thanks for the info still trying to decide what to do

glenn

 

I went with white oak in my 48 daily driver. Every two years I slop on a coat of Super Duck porch and deck stain. Six Montana winters it's doing very well.

 

White oak holds up a lot better than red oak. I did the bed of my 54 in 1970, Cuprinoled both sides. Its been outside since with one board starting to rot. White oak is used a lot around here for lake steps and docks, if, you can find it.

 

going to use pine temporarly and then use white oak when I can professionally fininsh it in the spring. But pine should get me thru the winter.

glenn aka moose


thanks to all for the help

 

If you are going to use pine, go for yellow pine it is tougher and will hold up better than white pine. Check out some local saw mills for the wood needed. If you get some rough cut now and let it dry over the winter it will be ready when you need it. Another species to use would be maple.