Here's the scoop: i saw an ad for a bronco (91 Eddie Bauer, 5.0L automatic). when i checked it out, the truck looks pretty good. It doesnt have the usual rust problems, but it doesnt start. It cranks but doesnt start. In my experience with Fords, that means the ignition module as there is no spark to the best of my knowledge. The back window doesnt opperate properly either. I can get the truck running, but I dont know if the price is right. Interior and body are good. 117,000 miles. Does $1500 sound good?

 

Buy Buy BUY!!!!! Thats adamn good price for that truck, if its in the condition you say it is.

 

are those tail gate windows hard to fix?

 

Might depend on what you plan on doing to it. If you read through the posts here you will find the problems that are common to most Bronco's and some of it can get expensive if your not a do-it-yourselfer. I paid 3800.00 for my 91 SA Bronco and so far tires (450.00) ball joints , front axle u joints, 4 front shocks (725.00) steering gear (240.00) radius arm bushings (85.00 a side) rear shocks I installed (50.00) replace exhaust gasket on right header (manifolds are known to crack and headers are cheap replacement) (50.00) manual hubs (105.00) (1 auto hub on passenger side was bad cost to replace 250.00 so switched to manual) gas tank (120.00 through auto zone) new hoses, plugs, wires , cap and rotor (100.00) windshield wiper motor (34.00) Its back into the shop now for rear end vibration and the egr/air tube needs to be replaced. They started with 100.00 to pull and balance driveshaft and I haven't heard anything on the cost of the rest of it yet. Also be aware that the oil pans on these are known to rust through and unless someone knows a different way of doing it the manual says motor has to be lifted to remove pan. The E40D trans is another weak spot in the Bronco, on top of all this I won't even mention what I spent on the sound system I installed. You also want to check for rust around the top rain gutter and check bed in back by pulling up the carpet and checking for water, if the tops been off chances are it leaks and gaskets will set you back 180.00 on up. On top of all this I love mine and get compliments almost every time I have it out because alot of folks did not know there was a Silver Anniversary Bronco and the body and interior are just about mint. Just some things to go back and check and to think about good luck.

 

forgot to add that tailgate windows are known to have problems also power windows and power door lock acuators are known to go bad. LOL hope I don't scare you off cause I do love mine. My rear window only rolls down from inside I have yet to tackle the outside portion. My 91 also has 144,000 miles on it and I do plan on repowering and replacing the trans at some point in the future but I bought this truck to use for winter/hunting here in Michigan and I want to make sure I don't run into any problems. A wise hunter (my father) passed on these words of wisdom to me when I told him it was our new driving up North vehicle, "Boy (I'm 39) if the damn thing breaks down on the way up I will burn it to stay warm" LOL and good luck

 

tothfngclw, did you just state you paid 725.00 for four front shocks? What brand of shocks are those? It only gonna cost me $250 to replace all six of mine....wierd. Just wondering about it.

 

I think he meant $725 for the ball joints, front axle U-joints, AND 4 front shocks, but I could be mistaken.

 

That was the total for the ball joints, front u-joints which the guy only change the ones on the axle. I asked him to change the 3 rd ujoint while it was all apart and he claims it didn't need it. He had me pick up the shocks at auto zone and charged me 30.00 to install, which wasn't to bad. Just got the word that the cardan joint is bad in the rear thats what was causing the vibration so not sure what thats going to run. This thing is worse than a boat. LOL

 

tothngclw

Are you not able to do any of the work yourself. Seems like to me the guy is ripping you a new one. Get you a Haynes manual and follow directions and most of what you have had to replace can be done yourself. That's how I have learned to work on mine.

Miketnf150

 

Actually if you compare the prices for what I paid you will find that that it's pretty cheap. I was quoted 300.00 a side just for ball joints. The front axle u-joints were quoted at 175.00 a side. Shocks for the front through a shop were quoted at 220.00 so if you total it up the guy that did it for 700.00 saved me an awful lot of money. Problem I have is a full work schedule and a 6 year old. Hard to turn down 37.00 an hour to go in on an off day to try and work on the Bronco, plus after working on vehicles as a hobby for the past 23 years its easier to let someone else get dirt in their eyes. I was just trying to point out that before you buy you should make sure you understand what you are getting into. I also prefer the Chiltons manual myself seems a little more detailed.

 

 

Personally, if the truck is what you are looking for and you are a do-it-yourself mechanic I would buy it. That is a reasonable price if it is straight. I would check the front end to see if it is going to need a rebuild. If you did all the work yourself and had the time it could be a sweet truck when you get it running.

 

I fully understand the concept of being tired of doing it yourself and paying someone else to get dirty. But, most of the things mentioned that need to be fixed on Broncos can be done with a Chiltons or Haynes manual, tools, and common sense.

If it were me, and I didn't already have one, I would buy it.

83xlt carbed 302

C Davis