no heat just cold air
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no heat just cold air
first cold morning in soutth alabama and i have no heat....my 1999f150 hasnt giving me any trouble at all wonder if i said somthin to make her mad,,someone said it was the blender door,,,which involved taking the dash out and replaceing the shaft that broke 65$/hr @8hr job anybody got any ideas on how to get heat cheaper
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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the tmep **** is basically a variable rheostat the varies th e voltage to a small motor the moves the blend door. the door mixes cold ari from the air conditioner, or oustide air, with the air thru the heater core. you set the temp. -- first thing is to feel both heater hoses under the hood and see if they are hot. next see if the controller **** is working properly. does it feel like it is moving a constant resistance, or does it slip on the shaft. you cna pull it off and turn the shaft by hand to test if you think the **** is loose. last thing is to check that the blend door motor is actualy moving the door. as you said, this is not a simple job, up under the dash. dont know if you can see anything looking up from the bottom or not.
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good news sun is out in south al. still no heat in myf150
thanks for the input guys,,heres what I have discovered so far,,heat on both sides( heater hoses). took a lo0k at the reostat and temp ****.standing on my head looking at the blender door motor,white in color and flat looking,,i notice the shaft turns about a half inch when you turn the temp ****,,, shouldnt the shaft turn more than this if its opening and closing the blender door,,,, i have thought about taking the motor loose and try to turn by hand,, dont know if ill open up a can of worms though... at this point,, im thinking its all gotta come out any way.. what do you think, should i go for it?? L.T.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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if your rheostat is o.k., and you are looking at the motor output shaft with a cam arm to the blend door, i would assume the arm turns 1/4 turn or 90 degrees or less. probably more than 45 degrees. your not looking for a shaft linear movememnt, the rotating cam would be a better indicator on degrees. i have no idea how much the rod actually moves. if your getting movement on the motor, look at the other end and see that the cam on the door shaft is also moving and not slipping.
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south alabama again
hey guys ,,,saturday morning was a little on the cold side so i went to the shop and studied on my heat problem,,,after realizing everything is in a black plastic box and is self contained,,except for the blender door motor..there was only one thing i could do to get temp. heat,,,I GOT MY DRILL AND A3/4 INCH BIT,,yes i did,,about two inches above the blender door motor i took a blind chance and punched her through..................................no there wasnt a heater core there after i open my eyes,,instead i had a clear view of the blender door and my problem,,,the blender door sits directly over the motor shaft and this is where it is broke its an ugly break not clean,,its like maybe the door got hung upand when you turn the **** that controls the motor it was pulling and the door was not opening...but eithier way i can take my screw driver and position the blender door where i want it and as for the hole thats nothin a little epoxy want fix,,,,until i get a lot of time and a lot of patience i will do this for a while..
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New User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Dallas USA
I've got a '98 with a heater that just quit (well, over the summer some time). Are there no vaccum lines to the heater temp control? It's all electric? The temp control **** does feel inconsistent. Could it just be slipping?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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'99's have weak *****. Take the **** off the temp and replace it with fan ****. 9 time out of 10 the **** is split. You can super glue it very carfully and put it on the fan. The temp adjustment has more pressure than the fan, the repaired **** should be fine there.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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the temperature control is all electric. a motor adjusts a door that mixes hot and cold air. the rest of the system is vacuum operated to direct the air up, down, or to the vents, those doors with vacuum cylinders are more "on" "off" with the vacuum, not adjustablel like the electric temp control.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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I had a similar problem. Last night when driving home from some Halloween revelry, I decided to crank up a little heat and only got cool air from the ducts. Didn't matter if it was defrost, panel or floorboard setting. The temp control **** has been acting up for awhile now but it would heat or cool if'n I worked it enough. Last night it didn't....
After doing some quick searches on this forum I decided to start my troubleshooting starting with the easy and working out to the harder.
Ends up the fix was in the 1st and easiest step
The temp **** is cracked where it slides over the temp control rheostat shaft and the crack was such that the **** would slip around the rheostat shaft instead of turning the shaft. Oddly enough theres a metal "clip" in the **** where it slides over the shaft that should strengthen the plastic ****. I'm going to guess that the **** wouldn't have lasted the 8 yrs it has if it didn't have this clip as theres considerable drag on the rheostat.
I've read where some have crazy glued the crack and swapped the ***** between the fan & temp control. This is what I'll do also but for now I've just swapped the ***** and all is well in heater=-land
Hope your fix is easy also.
Volfandt
After doing some quick searches on this forum I decided to start my troubleshooting starting with the easy and working out to the harder.
Ends up the fix was in the 1st and easiest step
The temp **** is cracked where it slides over the temp control rheostat shaft and the crack was such that the **** would slip around the rheostat shaft instead of turning the shaft. Oddly enough theres a metal "clip" in the **** where it slides over the shaft that should strengthen the plastic ****. I'm going to guess that the **** wouldn't have lasted the 8 yrs it has if it didn't have this clip as theres considerable drag on the rheostat.
I've read where some have crazy glued the crack and swapped the ***** between the fan & temp control. This is what I'll do also but for now I've just swapped the ***** and all is well in heater=-land
Hope your fix is easy also.
Volfandt
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42
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From: garden city, ks
98 Same Problem
I have a 98 and had the same problem. I took out the dash, and replaced the blend door. It was cracked from where the motor shaft goes in clear up about 3 inches up the blend door. I bought the door from a local ford dealer and did the job. About 3 months later I kept smelling antifreeze....Guess what..the heater core....so if you do the blend door then replace the heater core while you are there...I would recommend replacing the heater hoses as well..I will try and find pics of my blend door replacement.. Somewhere on here I found a guide to getting into the blend door...I can't remember who I got it from, but they emailed it to me..thanks