I bought a 53 f100 a couple years back. It apparently had been restored to stock...an ok job. But immediately had some problems with engine. I wont go into that now. So decided to make into a driver, but with some modern conviences and safety.. A/c, power steering,power brakes, new transmission and engine. I really want to learn about rebuilding. This truck actually looks pretty clean...except color.
So...my questions.
1- Engine recs. Without going crazy Im thinking of a Chevy 350 or 302. Keeping in mind right now I just want a decent, reliabe engine. I kind of like idea of 350 because can go anywhere and get parts. I want to be able to take longer trips etc. Right now with a 215 im a little uncomfortable. Is it better to buy a short or long block and add components? Is there another engine I shouldlook at. Recommended website to buy or go thru a place like vintage ford and buy?
2-Transmission....I like manual so what rec and were should I look to get. Certainly has to go with engine...
3-Discs- Well now I get into suspension and ride as well. I see alot of adds on the IFS.. Seems to be a huge range of pricing. Dont want to go insane. Is heidts pretty good? Discs in Front and drum in back?
4-A/C-- Vintage air?
5-Painting...oh my god!! i see can get real crazy...any recs on keeping cost down...Is maaco or someone like that even worth considering...or is that just stupid!
6- Ive prescribed to Classic trucks, bought how to restore your ford pickup but im really looking for building a decent truck that eventually can be taken to next level if I ever want to spruce up more. I dont plan on selling (my wife wont let me!) any thoughts? I have gone to a few local shops and inquired what to do
Ive got a ton more questions...but I will keep simple. Im trying to find links etc for what a good basic driver would be. Ive got about 20K to invest. Im sure there will be alot more stuff I need.Im just trying to start a list and get some rough pricing before I get in over my head. I realize i can't do it all at once but want a good base to add on over the years

 

Well, you aren't likely to get many votes for the 350 from a Ford site. You will get a bit more power from the 350 than the 302 due to the displacement difference and it might be a little cheaper to build, but I like to see a Ford in a Ford so my vote goes for the 302. You could even consider a 351 if you want a little more horsepower. If you have no engine now consider a crate engine or long block. An automatic transmission would be easier to install due to the clutch linkage fabrication and an AOD or C4 would work well. Definitely go with disc brakes in front and Vintage Air is the best A/C around. I would also consider an independent suspension to smooth out the bumps.

Vern

 

Welcome to FTE!!!

You've really laid a lot on the block, as far as questions, but I feel it is good to have a plan before one starts this big a rebuild.

I am personally a believer that the best build method is to get it to a reliable driver first, then finish it out after driving it for a while. I have done that with mine and the plan changed many times as I did so. Besides, you'll love driving it. If I had a solid truck all together, I would opt to rebuild the flathead, if I could. If you have ruled that out, then the other engine choices come in to play, however, any of thos options will probably wind up being more expensive to do compared to rebuilding a decent stock core.

In considering the engine choice, power and mileage would be my concerns. If you contemplate long trips and don't mind 10 mpg, the 350 will be a lot more fun to punch off the lights. The 302 will give appreciably better mileage and is twice the power these had originally. I would vote for an automatic also. Much easier to install and drive. However, if a stick is what you want the Chevy will give better tranny choices, including OD. But I'm not an expert here.

I would vote to keep the stock front end. Reconditioned, they drive very well. They can be softened by removing a few leafs (no problem because the engines you are considering are lighter than the flattie you pull out). You'll need to replace pins, shackles and put some plastic strips between the leafs, etc. Inexpensive.

The steering will probably stand a look, depending on how drunken your monkey is. I have a Mustang II IFS that came in the truck when I bought it, but knowing what I know now, I wouldn't install an IFS. There are disk brake setups that bolt on to the stock solid axle and power steering is available either by going to a Toyota box (a popular option with some folks here) or a ram assist kit.

Vintage Air has pretty much the concensus agreement as a very good system.

Paint. Now here is where every build budget has the opprtunity to look more like the kid's college fund! Like you, I struggled with this. I am building a driver (on a budget) and wasn't looking for the perfect show paint job. I checked Maaco, One Day and other local shops. Prices (in So Cal) ranged from 3k-6k. If we were building a slab-sided something (Camaro, etc), they would be a decent choice. But, our fat-fendered trucks don't paint well all together. The paint won't cover well going down into the corners between fender and body/bed, etc. They really need to be painted in pieces and reassembled. NONE of these local places would do that for that price. "The pieces take up too much room in the booth" was the reason they gave.

Recognizing that it is the prep work that makes or breaks a paint job, I chose to learn how to do that and am doing it now. It takes a while to get the hang of it, it is messy, it takes patience (a lot), and, if you don't like how it looks, you can grind it off and do it again until it's good. (I know this well). I will paint my 56 myself in my garage this winter. And, actually, I'm getting pretty excited about the idea.

Tons of questions is good. Please just make sure to ask some simple or dumb ones as that's the best chance many of us here have to look smart.

 

HI

First of all you have a good looking truck now.

If it were mine I would throw out the stock suspension and install a IFS.
Before you make a choice price out both what Randy suggested and what Vern and I suggest. May find out one of them isn't as cheap as you might think.

A sbc is the cheaper choice but a 351W/AOD would/will work great.

Vintage air is a good choice but it's not a bolt in.

Having said all that I would keep the outside just like it is except have it about 4 inches lower and a set of W/W radials.

They gave me prices of $8500.00 on up for a paint job that was suppost to be equal to production. Thats why mines in black primer (done in my garage after I failed on the paint job).

What ever you do just remember it's suppost to be FUN.

Chuck

 

1. I'd go with an engine in the 350 ci range whatever the make (my panel wears a bowtie) best size IMHO. Short block, long block, crate, new, rebuilt, used: ???? depends on you pocketbook, mechanical abilities, possible mods you plan. My vote would be for a used latemodel EFI engine for dependabilty, economy, power. Put a standalone computer and a set of headers on it and drive it without worries or needing any additional mods. Rebuilt engines: Jasper. Crate: Edelbrock, manufacturer (GM or Ford), Dart, World.
2.For a manual tranny I'd recommend an OD unit for performance around town and economy/reduced noise and wear on the highway. That would mean a T5 5 speed (world version) or T56 6 speed (double OD, HD) with a rear gear ratio in the 3.0-3.7:1 range.
3. Power disk brakes front drums rear, YES! Need to decide underfloor or hanging pedals (best with manual tranny IMHO) Don't want to go insane with suspension then forget the IFS, The beam axle can be made to give 90% of the ride and handling for far less money even including the Toyota PS addition and an aftermarket tilt column and wheel.
4. Vintage Air makes a good unit, I like the fact it can be ordered with fittings that can hide the hoses. I have an Old Air unit in my truck that's a bolt in replacement unit.
5. Paint ???? The new 2 stage (basecoat/clearcoat) are pretty hard to mess up if you have a large enough compressor and buy a GOOD HVLP spray gun. The quickie paint shops can do a decent job if you give them a fully stripped (glass, chrome, interior, bedfloor etc.) and preped ( all bodywork completed, primed and surface puttied) vehicle. The reason they're cheap is in the (lack of) prep work. You can solve the problem Randy mentioned by hanging the fenders in place with long bolts and spacers to open up the areas between without them having to deal with separate parts.
Depending on how much work you can/will do yourself and how crazy you go you are looking at spending $10-30K+ and 1- 10 years, with mid range of those numbers being about a realistic average for a dedicated enthusiast using good used major parts and doing a good part of the work themselves.

 

great points...maybe what i better do is step back and focus on one thing at a time.( i will keep all of your comments though for future reference) . if you dont mind a few stupid questions from a rookie...id like to just work on one thing at a time. Keeping in mind your comments on engines and tranny maybe i should start there. Let me step back and explain my 215ci engine problem just to give you a little back ground...I bought truck restored..frame off from a guy for about 8k. (id post pic..but apparently i cant do attachments) Im not an expert but looked pretty good (not thrilled about paint job- chips , sandblasted rust but didnt putty, overspray etc) but everything else looked fine. Well i drove about 50 miles total...one day smelled radiator fluid...thought was guy in front of me..no steam and went away quickly....so kept driving..well you guessed it..I got home and no water...filled up after cooled and leaked between head and block.. I pulled head didnt see any obvious cracks..so put new gasket on....in the meantime as I was torquing bolts down..2 snapped and 1 already had a helicoil in it...thats were I stopped. Figured would have to tear apart at this time anyway. My wife wants something reliable. I dont want to trash engine...maybe fixable. Tranny (no syncro) works fine.just pain in butt (you know..us californians just cant stop completely) .Keeping in mind i want to add power steering,a/c power brakes.etc...i was told that the best thing was to put a more powerful engine in it...Now if thats not the case and I can do something with 215ci (235 head) and drive on longer trips etc then so be it..... Now assuming not....then let me proceed with engine questions
engine
1- wow...gas mileage..hadnt a clue. If you had to guess on a 302 what would mpg be. OR am i better getting a larger engine in case I ever want to change look etc..driver to whatever and live with low mpg?
2- whats diff between long block and short?
3- Would i save more $$ if i got one over the other and added components myself? I am mechanically inclined and just need to get some advice and I do have some neighbors that would assist
4- Not sure about going to wrecking yard and pulling and redoing...that probably is out of my scope and talent.
5- were is best place to get the engines? have any recommendations?rebuild vs new?
6- if i got a short or longblock what would your best guess be dollar wise for the add ons..(distributor, waterpump etc) assuming not going crazy.I can always add some of that stuff later on if I want...i assume.

this would be a good start. Looking back at all the classic trucks mags...do seem to see alot of 350's

again thanks....if you guys are willing to help a bit I will post just a few more replies until I get a list of the most important stuff out of way (front end, discs, backend,power brake and steering). A/c is done...vintage air. Funny about the painting...i was thinking originally about getting one of the saito (i think thats right) guns and doing myself. But I will continue that discussion later...I really want to thank you guys for helping...this can be a little overwhelming...but fun!!

 

It has been awhile but as far as I remember, the only difference in a long block and short block is that the long block comes with heads, oil pan, and timing cover attached. I don't remember any other differences. If you already have cylinder heads or want to use high performance heads, go with the short block and supply your own heads, oil pan, and timing cover. You still have to supply the intake, distributor, water pump, flex plate, etc., with either long or short block. I think if you do not have another engine from which to pull the accessories, the long block might be a better deal. If you already have these items or can attain them easily then the short block mght be better for you.

 

I am not really an all stock guy but, that truck looks so nice as it sits right now I would have a real hard time changing it. Most of these old gals have already been messed with as mine was, but the few out there still original are pretty special. Not what you want to hear but if you gotta redo her bring her back to stock. If you can't resist stay with Ford power. Good Luck...

 

3rd option: crate motor= new complete motor less carb, distributor, accessory drive (pulleys)
$ to complete longblock ~ 1000.00-1500.00
Gas milege will depend a lot on tranny (OD or no) rear end ratio (higher gearing i.e. numerically smaller = more milege but less performance) tire size, and (especially) driver's right foot. Our trucks weigh very close to 2T and have aero of a barn door, IMHO 302 is marginal size engine for daily driver, OK for a cruiser. Most 302s were built for economy during last gas crisis and had poor flowing heads designed for 2 BBL carb.
It takes a fair amount of $ aftermarket/high pro parts just to = HP of a stock 351W, and will never dependably = a slightly warmed over 351. IMHO You'll be money ahead starting with the 351 unless you happen to have a perfect donor vehicle already sitting in the yard and a tight budget.
Too many new enthusiasts jump into their first vehicle with both feet and are quickly overwhelmed and eventually lose interest and enthusiasm. Sounds like you have wisely started with a sound foundation. I'd suggest you concentrate on just one project at a time as needed/ wanted and keep the truck drivable as much as possible in between.
One thing you didn't mention is the rear end. The stock rear end is servicable for a while, but if you are going to put a V8 in it you might want to plan on changing it out for something stonger with an appropriate ratio while you have it down for the engine swap. Take a look at the top of this page and click on the articles and specs tab for a wealth of info you'll find useful/informative.

Pictures: look at the sticky post at the top of the topic page on how to set up a personal gallery where you can put all the pix you want. If you click on any user's name in their posts you can then look at their gallery as well.
OOPS! what happened to that topic???? You can click on user CP at the top of the page and edit gallery in the left panel. Follow instructions to set up gallery.
While you're in there you also may want to add an email address to your profile so people can send you offline info.

 

Just noticed that you are from Roseville - we have several members in the Sacramento area. You should join us - and you will have lots of local help when you want it. It is also a great place for local advice if you want it (where to go for parts and which shops are the best sort of thing)

If your stock setup suits you engine wise, that is, has enough power and economy for you, your best bet would be to keep it. You can rebuild yours or get another block without spending a lot. I have an extra, and know of a couple of others - having yours or one of those rebuilt would be in the $1k to $1500 range. When I started mine the local NAPA store offered me one exchange for $850, but that has been a few years ago.

If you want to hot rod it, you can spend any amount and buy whatever horsepower you want. I like the 302 V8 and AOD combination, but am going with the EFI 300 six with a truck 4 speed tranny in my 59 as I intend to work it.

 

willie
Probably be a good idea to have local help and support. You can contact me offline at your convience. I just set up to do private emails...we can talk on phone or over email Would like more info on meeting dates etc.
thanks!

 

It is a forum or chapter of this website - visit at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...splay.php?f=90. I even started a thread for you to post your plans and questions to - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post3947263

and you can join the group (or not) if you wish by clicking on the image in my signature.

 

i seen one around here not to long ago a guy put a fuel injested 351 aod out of a 95 in a 54 svo had a engine harness for 400 i think he said used a 9 inch with 3:55 and mustang 2 out front he averaged 20 mpg and would light up te tires any time he wanted with doner truck wiring and convertion he spent close to 3k

 

What 95's come with a 351?

 

The 351W was produced until 97, so it is possible to find them in some 95s.