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1946 1-ton master cylinder rebuild

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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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1946 1-ton master cylinder rebuild

Hey guys, I bought a rebuild kit for my master clyinder from Macs. All looks great, parts matched up. Does anyone have a picture breakdown of which way this thing goes back together?

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 11:26 AM
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From: willamette valley ore
It's been a few days since you posted your question so you might have it figured out already but just in case you don't here is the basic assy for your master cylinder. There should be a bottom valve that will go into the cylinder first. then the spring. Then the piston which may or may not have the seal attached. At any rate, the seal end must go in first and then the piston. Any snap ring keepers will be obvious if there are any. I don't know the specifics of your unit but these are the basics for master cylinders in general. If you have access to a service manual of almost any make or vintage, there is probably a cross section of the master cylincer in the brake section. Steve
 
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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Hey Steve, thanks... I still haven't got it figured out yet. To get more specific I am trying to figure out where (and which way) this little round deal goes. It's round and has holes in it with a convex in it.. I might have to take a picture.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 09:16 AM
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From: willamette valley ore
The round, short cylindrical piece is the piston. the concave side faces out and is where the accuating rod seats. It is non-ferous metal. This is the same set up as a wheel cylinder except that a wheel cylincer expands outward and a master cylinder is forced inward. Remember that for any action there is an opposite and equal reaction. In this case the inward pressure of the master cylinder creates equal outward pressure at the wheel cylinders. Enough theory - hope you get it going. If your rebuild is not 100% satisfactory, don't despare. I used to rebuild all of my cylinders but a certain percentage of them would leak. Now I just buy new units and get on with it. Steve
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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Hey thanks Steve!!

I'll be trying it out later. These master clyinders are only $70. But I figured I'd clean. hone, and try the $12 kit first just to see.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 11:09 AM
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Hey guys, been busy haven't had time to work on this project but next weekend I'll have some time to work on it. I got my master clyinder honed, cleaned and painted. Ready for install. Can you tell me number by number where and which way everything is supposed to go together? (see picture) Thanks!

 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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Probably should go together something like the diagram:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...r_1939to46.jpg

Mike
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 10:22 PM
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45ford, thanks for the picture! I searched and searched and couldn't find anything. Only thing that isn't real clear is the #7 part and which direction it faces.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ceetwarrior
45ford, thanks for the picture! I searched and searched and couldn't find anything. Only thing that isn't real clear is the #7 part and which direction it faces.
The narrow part goes into the wider end of the spring (far right in the diagram).

Mike
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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45ford thanks for the diagram. I got it rebuilt and reinstalled today. It pumps fluid to all 4 wheel cylinders but still no brakes (of course).

I started with the rear end to see the condition of the wheel clylinders but turns out I need a special socket to get the hub off. This is, of course, after I had to pull the axle out, LOL. This truck is truly heavy duty. My trucker neighbor had a 2-1/2" hub socket but I'm guessing I need a 2-3/8" according to my measurements. Once I find the proper socket I can see what kind of condition my brakes and wheel cylinders are in next. Sure was fun driving her around today though.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Brakes work! They work great, in fact. Pretty sweet kit for only $12
 
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