1946 1-ton master cylinder rebuild
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#2
It's been a few days since you posted your question so you might have it figured out already but just in case you don't here is the basic assy for your master cylinder. There should be a bottom valve that will go into the cylinder first. then the spring. Then the piston which may or may not have the seal attached. At any rate, the seal end must go in first and then the piston. Any snap ring keepers will be obvious if there are any. I don't know the specifics of your unit but these are the basics for master cylinders in general. If you have access to a service manual of almost any make or vintage, there is probably a cross section of the master cylincer in the brake section. Steve
#3
#4
The round, short cylindrical piece is the piston. the concave side faces out and is where the accuating rod seats. It is non-ferous metal. This is the same set up as a wheel cylinder except that a wheel cylincer expands outward and a master cylinder is forced inward. Remember that for any action there is an opposite and equal reaction. In this case the inward pressure of the master cylinder creates equal outward pressure at the wheel cylinders. Enough theory - hope you get it going. If your rebuild is not 100% satisfactory, don't despare. I used to rebuild all of my cylinders but a certain percentage of them would leak. Now I just buy new units and get on with it. Steve
#5
#6
Hey guys, been busy haven't had time to work on this project but next weekend I'll have some time to work on it. I got my master clyinder honed, cleaned and painted. Ready for install. Can you tell me number by number where and which way everything is supposed to go together? (see picture) Thanks!
#7
Probably should go together something like the diagram:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...r_1939to46.jpg
Mike
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...r_1939to46.jpg
Mike
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45ford thanks for the diagram. I got it rebuilt and reinstalled today. It pumps fluid to all 4 wheel cylinders but still no brakes (of course).
I started with the rear end to see the condition of the wheel clylinders but turns out I need a special socket to get the hub off. This is, of course, after I had to pull the axle out, LOL. This truck is truly heavy duty. My trucker neighbor had a 2-1/2" hub socket but I'm guessing I need a 2-3/8" according to my measurements. Once I find the proper socket I can see what kind of condition my brakes and wheel cylinders are in next. Sure was fun driving her around today though.
I started with the rear end to see the condition of the wheel clylinders but turns out I need a special socket to get the hub off. This is, of course, after I had to pull the axle out, LOL. This truck is truly heavy duty. My trucker neighbor had a 2-1/2" hub socket but I'm guessing I need a 2-3/8" according to my measurements. Once I find the proper socket I can see what kind of condition my brakes and wheel cylinders are in next. Sure was fun driving her around today though.
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