'35 1/2T front end clip
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Manitoba, Canada
'35 1/2T front end clip
I bought a 1935 Ford 1/2 T front the original owner.... all in pieces. As for the chassis, I have the frame but only bare frame... no rear diff and no front clip at all.
I want to start this project soon but I'm undecided what to use for the front clip. Mustang II? I refuse to put any Chevy product on this truck so please don't suggest any Chevy stuff. I don't want to dishonor Henry Ford
.
Will a Mustang II fit nicely? Do I need to box the frame?
I bought an '88 Ranger chassis because the wheel base is only 1" difference and the width is basiccly the same but I'm having second thought about this because the Ranger chassis is all up & down curvy as opose to the '35 that is almost staight level.
Any suggestions please?
I want to start this project soon but I'm undecided what to use for the front clip. Mustang II? I refuse to put any Chevy product on this truck so please don't suggest any Chevy stuff. I don't want to dishonor Henry Ford
.Will a Mustang II fit nicely? Do I need to box the frame?
I bought an '88 Ranger chassis because the wheel base is only 1" difference and the width is basiccly the same but I'm having second thought about this because the Ranger chassis is all up & down curvy as opose to the '35 that is almost staight level.
Any suggestions please?
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Orange County, CA
Boxing a frame is always a good idea if you plan to add some power. It'll just make for a more ridgid frame, so less twisting...alwyas good. There are several suppliers out there that make a MII setup that will include new crossmember for the front made to fit your truck, so very minimal cutting will be required. The MII should work very well for your truck, especially since the '35 is not a very heavy truck compared to later years. Of course, the stock I beam is always an option, just upgrade to hydraulic brakes, or discs even.
Add some pictures to your gallery sometime of the '35. The '35 is a beautiful looking truck, one of the nicest that Ford made in the '30's.
Add some pictures to your gallery sometime of the '35. The '35 is a beautiful looking truck, one of the nicest that Ford made in the '30's.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted by 46fordtruck
Boxing a frame is always a good idea if you plan to add some power. It'll just make for a more ridgid frame, so less twisting...alwyas good. There are several suppliers out there that make a MII setup that will include new crossmember for the front made to fit your truck, so very minimal cutting will be required. The MII should work very well for your truck, especially since the '35 is not a very heavy truck compared to later years. Of course, the stock I beam is always an option, just upgrade to hydraulic brakes, or discs even.
Add some pictures to your gallery sometime of the '35. The '35 is a beautiful looking truck, one of the nicest that Ford made in the '30's.
Add some pictures to your gallery sometime of the '35. The '35 is a beautiful looking truck, one of the nicest that Ford made in the '30's.
Would you have links to some of these suppliers out there that make a MII setup?
Thanks 46fordtruck
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Oakdale,Ca.
There's several manufacturers, Heidts, TCI, No Limit, FatMans are some of the "bigger names" (I'm sure I forgot one or two), as well as several other's you'll come across.
I was going to go with an IFS in my '36, but have decided to stick with a dropped axle I have, and will upgrade to discbrakes. I'll still box the frame, in fact the entire frame, these trucks (35 and 36) tend to have a weakspot just behind the cab, several of the "parts trucks" I've come across have started a crack in the frame there, as well as one of the extra's I have.
FWIW, even if you're not going with a lot of power, stiffening up the frame when going to an IFS is a must (IMO), so the suspension can do it's work, not the frame.
I was going to go with an IFS in my '36, but have decided to stick with a dropped axle I have, and will upgrade to discbrakes. I'll still box the frame, in fact the entire frame, these trucks (35 and 36) tend to have a weakspot just behind the cab, several of the "parts trucks" I've come across have started a crack in the frame there, as well as one of the extra's I have.
FWIW, even if you're not going with a lot of power, stiffening up the frame when going to an IFS is a must (IMO), so the suspension can do it's work, not the frame.
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted by 3Mike6
There's several manufacturers, Heidts, TCI, No Limit, FatMans are some of the "bigger names" (I'm sure I forgot one or two), as well as several other's you'll come across.
I was going to go with an IFS in my '36, but have decided to stick with a dropped axle I have, and will upgrade to discbrakes. I'll still box the frame, in fact the entire frame, these trucks (35 and 36) tend to have a weakspot just behind the cab, several of the "parts trucks" I've come across have started a crack in the frame there, as well as one of the extra's I have.
FWIW, even if you're not going with a lot of power, stiffening up the frame when going to an IFS is a must (IMO), so the suspension can do it's work, not the frame.
I was going to go with an IFS in my '36, but have decided to stick with a dropped axle I have, and will upgrade to discbrakes. I'll still box the frame, in fact the entire frame, these trucks (35 and 36) tend to have a weakspot just behind the cab, several of the "parts trucks" I've come across have started a crack in the frame there, as well as one of the extra's I have.
FWIW, even if you're not going with a lot of power, stiffening up the frame when going to an IFS is a must (IMO), so the suspension can do it's work, not the frame.
What type of welder do you guys recommand? I have an arc & mig but my guess is that the arc will warp the s**t out of the frame. I assume a TIG is best?
When boxing the frame, do you guys put a continuious weld or weld or leave spaces between short strides of welds?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Paris Crossing, Indiana
Draft-Horse,
Sounds like you have a great truck to rebuild. Go Down to the nearest Wal-Mart and look in the magazine section and buy a 'Classic Trucks' Magazine or 'Custom Classic Trucks' Magazine or both. They have great advertisements and pictures of IFS's and sometimes tech aticles of how to install them. If thats not possible then chech out their web sites. Good Luck
Sounds like you have a great truck to rebuild. Go Down to the nearest Wal-Mart and look in the magazine section and buy a 'Classic Trucks' Magazine or 'Custom Classic Trucks' Magazine or both. They have great advertisements and pictures of IFS's and sometimes tech aticles of how to install them. If thats not possible then chech out their web sites. Good Luck
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Originally Posted by loholland
Draft-Horse,
Sounds like you have a great truck to rebuild. Go Down to the nearest Wal-Mart and look in the magazine section and buy a 'Classic Trucks' Magazine or 'Custom Classic Trucks' Magazine or both. They have great advertisements and pictures of IFS's and sometimes tech aticles of how to install them. If thats not possible then chech out their web sites. Good Luck
Sounds like you have a great truck to rebuild. Go Down to the nearest Wal-Mart and look in the magazine section and buy a 'Classic Trucks' Magazine or 'Custom Classic Trucks' Magazine or both. They have great advertisements and pictures of IFS's and sometimes tech aticles of how to install them. If thats not possible then chech out their web sites. Good Luck
I bought the truck 14 yrs ago after I sold my '50 Ford 1/2T (which I deeply regret
) and haven't had the time & place to build this truck. I'm just finishing off my new 30' x 42' x 12' H shop so it will happen soon in the near futur. I look forward in building my 3rd truck.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Oakdale,Ca.
IFS is Independant Front Suspension...i/e your MII setup, or a clip, etc.
Any welder will work, as long as you know how to run it properly.
What I really like about the TIG welds (in the right hands) is I think they look better painted over, than bondo'ed to cover the weld before paint.
No reason for a continous bead for boxing the frame. It lends itself to more twisting after welding unless setup in a Jig. (yes, learned that on FTE!!)
Any welder will work, as long as you know how to run it properly.
What I really like about the TIG welds (in the right hands) is I think they look better painted over, than bondo'ed to cover the weld before paint.
No reason for a continous bead for boxing the frame. It lends itself to more twisting after welding unless setup in a Jig. (yes, learned that on FTE!!)
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Joined: May 2003
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From: E.Lincoln County, NC
My uncle used a FatMan's IRS/R&P (Mustang II) on his '36, worked out great. It rides/drives really well. His frame is boxed front to back. Rear end consists of 9" Lincoln Versailles, disc brakes and springs.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: E.Lincoln County, NC
Originally Posted by Draft_Horse
Holy s***, That is one nice truck! How much do you figure it's worth? I'll post some pics of my '50 1/2t when I find them.... Had a 428 CJ in it. hehehe
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Joined: May 2003
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From: E.Lincoln County, NC
Originally Posted by 3Mike6
That IS a beautiful truck with a GREAT stance!
BTW, it looks better now, with the headlights adjusted. They were a little cross-eyed there. It was just coming back from having the paint touched up when I snapped that pic.
Last edited by ncranchero; Jun 27, 2006 at 08:23 AM.
