I got all kinds of great input and advice a bit ago and got another one... My 1998 Taurus wagon w/3.0 V-6(similiar to Ranger motor) felt as though the power serring failed today. Got in after work, hit the key and had to strong arm the wheel like there was no PS. Stopped 1/2 way home on my 60 mile commute and everything looked good. Belt still there, full of fluid, and appeared fine. Stiff armed it to my next stop and everything you could do to turn wheels lock to lock, back and forth. Started thinking it was in need of a pump or rack. Came back a little less than an hour later and SHAZAM! Like there was never anything wrong. Drove 15 more miles and been fine since. Any ideas or similiar happenings? THANKS

 

Not building hydraulic pressure for whatever reason.

 

Drove my 60 miles to work today and all was well. I was wondering if these systems ever "gulp" an air bubble or is there a check valve that gets stuck? The only thing I didn't like when looking stuff over was a pretty burned smell to the fluid. It must have got hot somewhere somehow. Added a real small amount or Marvel Mystery oil to the fluid. Maybe that'll help free something up...?

 

I recently used some "Seafoam Trans Tune" in both my 94Taurus & 99 Ranger P/S units, to successfully stop "shudder", so maybe a dose of the Trans Tune with a short drive, then a good P/S system flush with a couple qts of new fluid, pumped out through the P/S cooler return line, while slowly turning the rack, lock to lock, to flush it too, would help clean things up inside.

It sure did for my 94 Taurus & it's been more than two years now, about 10 months on the Ranger & all is smooth & quiet. Both of mine are due & will get a P/S system flush soon. I'm flushing mine about every 25K miles now.

If the fluid is dark & burnt smelling, it's oxidized & needs to be replaced before it really gums/clogs things up.

You can check out the Trans Tune here, if you think it's for you. http://www.seafoamsales.com/transTuneTech.htm

It's just a cleaner/dryer/lubircator, no seal swell agents or softners in it.

It's reansonably priced at most auto parts stores around here in SW Va, like Advance Auto, AutoZone, & a few other private stores around here carry it for about $4, for a 16 oz can.

Let us know how the flush goes.

 

It hasn't screwed up again yet, but I have to change oil in the motor this weekend, maybe I'll flush th PS and add the SeaFoam too. THANKS!!

 

Well, to be cear, I was suggestng you add the SeaFoam before you do the flush, so it can tidy things up inside & put any deposits it can remove, into suspension in the old dirty fluid, before you flush the system with new fluid.

That way any removed deposits will come out with the old dirty fluid.

If you add the new fluid & SeaFoam to a unclean system, the new fluid will dirty up right away!!!!

BTW, I first pinched the return line shut, then removed it at the cooler, unpinched it & drained the pumps reservoir into a catch bucket, then plugged the return line with a golf tee & topped off the pump reservoir with new flush fluid.

Then I routed a piece of scrap hose from the cooler into my catch bucket .

During the flush/pump out, I found it easier to control the fluid level in the P/S pump reservoir & thus prevent getting air in the system from low fluid levels, by removing the pumps drive belt & spinning it's drive shaft with a variable speed drill motor.

Trying to do it with the engine at idle, pumped the fluid out faster than I could pour it in, so I got a lot of air in my fluid the first time.

With the variable speed drill motor driving things, you can slow down the pump out rate & keep the reservoirs level up enough to prevent getting any air in the system.

My Taurus system was plenty dirty, so I used about 3 qts to flush it & get it squeeky cleen inside!!!! lol

Just some additional thoughts for consideation.

Let us now how it goes.

 

Paw Paw is right on target.

Russ

 

Wow, PAW PAW really has this covered, you thought this through. THANKS. I appreciate the advice and will try following your lead next weekend. It still hasn't plugged up again and failed, but with my luck I bet it will soon. Just curious...did your's have a problem or did you just flush it as maintenance? Was the problem intermitten?

 

My 94 Taurus problem wasn't as bad as yours, but was internittent with periods of little or no assist off center. Some times it would just "shudder".

I had let it go until the fluid was sorta grey looking, but not burnt smelling. I think it had probably begun to make sludge!!!! SHAME ON ME, I know better!!!!

Anyway I removed enough fluid, to add 1/2 can of Seafoam & drove it several days until it stoped acting up, then drained some more fluid & added the other 1/2 can, drove it one more day, then flushed the system with 3 qts of tranny fluid.

I had the wife helping, by starting & stoping the engine & slowly turning the rack, lock to lock, so it would get flushed too, while I tried to keep the fluid level topped off, but I just couldn't pour it in fast enough with the engine at idle, so I got a lot of air in the system & it took a while to work it out & made a mess when it burped the pressureized entrapped air bubble/s, because I had the pumps reservoir cover off, watching the fluid level.

I didn't get a face full of fluid, but the hood & engine got a dose!!!!! LOL

So the moral of the story is, wear safety glasses when working on pressureized systems & keep the cap on, or keep the P/S reservoir covered, when your trying to work entrapped air from the system.

I wasn't smart enough to think it ALL the way through the first time, so my punishment was to have to clean, "spit up" P/S fluid from all over my nice clean engine & compartment, that I had so laboriously detailed before cleaning the P/S system out!!!! lol

I was danged lucky I didn't get a face full of fluid when it burped, so we all should be sure to wear our safety glasses, whenever messing with ANY pressurized system!!!! P/S, Tranny, Crankcase oiling, Cooling, A/C, ect!!!!

Remember we only have one set of eyes & ZERO chances to screw up!!!!

Will be interesting to hear how it goes for you.

 

Another cause besides 'sludge' is 'morning sickness' where the rack has worn seals that don't quite work until they have 'awakenee' (or warmed up...). The only cure for that is to get a re-man rack. About $100 for a cardone at NAPA, ballpark. Kind of a pain to wriggle into place.
tom

 

THANKS again Paw Paw for the warning. I can see myself soaked fluid and rolling around in the garage looking for a rag to clean out my peepers. Glad it didn't get you. Thanks too TomW, I'll remember that if the clean/flush doesn't get it taken care of.