New Member, Rearend Question
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New User
Joined: Dec 2005
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New Member, Rearend Question
Hi. I'm a new member, and I'm pleased to have found this forum! I'm going to be putting my '47 1/2 ton back on the road, with your help. I have uploaded a few pics into my gallery, but don't yet know how to provide a link to them...
The biggest issue is that the rear end is frozen - differential fluid has leaked onto the brake shoes, and they've swollen tight to the drums (as a result of my own repair done many years ago...). Anyway, I've been thinking of switching it out to a more roadworthy rearend. Searching this forum, I found reference to bolt-in 67-72 Ford pickup rearends. I think I've located a '72 in a friend's back yard. My first question is, how do I identify the correct rearend, if I'm after one of these bolt-in replacements? My friend isn't sure if the truck is a 3/4 or 1/2 ton. Will that make a difference? Thanks in advance,
John
The biggest issue is that the rear end is frozen - differential fluid has leaked onto the brake shoes, and they've swollen tight to the drums (as a result of my own repair done many years ago...). Anyway, I've been thinking of switching it out to a more roadworthy rearend. Searching this forum, I found reference to bolt-in 67-72 Ford pickup rearends. I think I've located a '72 in a friend's back yard. My first question is, how do I identify the correct rearend, if I'm after one of these bolt-in replacements? My friend isn't sure if the truck is a 3/4 or 1/2 ton. Will that make a difference? Thanks in advance,
John
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
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From: Kalispell, MT
It's actually 57-72. The front half of the differential unbolts to remove the carrier section. No pan on the back. It will measure 61 1/4" drum face to drum face or 57" axle housing stub to stub if the backing plates are gone.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 79
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From: Slippery Rock, Pa.
There are no dumb questions, if you want to learn something.
Best to keep searching for the 1/2 ton rear end, they should not be that difficult to find, there were a lot 67 thru 72's made, so......just try to get a complete rear end, it will make life a lot easier, even if it needs re-built this is not a problem as everything is availabvle.
As far as an "adapter", it will depend on the yoke and your drive shaft, in my case I was able to pick up a universal at the local parts store with the two different end caps, other than that it was a bolt in. I did buy the later (67/72) shock brackaets to go on the frame so that I could use the newwe shocks.
Dave
Best to keep searching for the 1/2 ton rear end, they should not be that difficult to find, there were a lot 67 thru 72's made, so......just try to get a complete rear end, it will make life a lot easier, even if it needs re-built this is not a problem as everything is availabvle.
As far as an "adapter", it will depend on the yoke and your drive shaft, in my case I was able to pick up a universal at the local parts store with the two different end caps, other than that it was a bolt in. I did buy the later (67/72) shock brackaets to go on the frame so that I could use the newwe shocks.
Dave
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
If you can get the center chunk cheap and it's the ratio you want I'd consider buying it anyway. Then when you find a 5 bolt housing that chunk will fit it. 
Vern
Vern
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New User
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Thanks Vern.
I was wondering about that. The price is right - free. Sort of... I have to dispose of the truck, and I can have the rearend "free". I'm really not too picky about the ratio - just want something geared a little better than the original, which is what I have now.
John
I was wondering about that. The price is right - free. Sort of... I have to dispose of the truck, and I can have the rearend "free". I'm really not too picky about the ratio - just want something geared a little better than the original, which is what I have now.
John
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Canada
Diff Question
Try to make sure that the engine in the truck that is the donator is a V8. These are the 9 inch rears, and have the same 5 1/2 on 5 bolt pattern, as your 47 had orginally. The same wheels if you are looking for choice fit from 1940-1995, cars/trucks.
A friend of mine runs a 239 Flathead all stock with a 3.25 ratio, and he claims the truck runs great, and does a good job through hills etc. The hills I'm speaking of are through the PA, TN, Appalachan, hope I spelled it right.
Also the choice is very wide-spread as far as different ratios go. As an idea 2.75-4.?, and are virtually indestrcutible. So the choice is great and these are plentyfull. Best of luck to you and Merry Christmas.
A friend of mine runs a 239 Flathead all stock with a 3.25 ratio, and he claims the truck runs great, and does a good job through hills etc. The hills I'm speaking of are through the PA, TN, Appalachan, hope I spelled it right.
Also the choice is very wide-spread as far as different ratios go. As an idea 2.75-4.?, and are virtually indestrcutible. So the choice is great and these are plentyfull. Best of luck to you and Merry Christmas.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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Originally Posted by 46fordtruck
Is that center chunk of the F250 the same as a 9" rear? If it isn't then you are limited to only the F250 rear. I always thought the F250 used a different rear.
Gary is correct; nothing from a 3/4 ton will interchange in the 9" 1/2 ton.
Avoid the f-250 model; they are too heavy and wide for your early applic.
Go w/ a 67-72 9" 1/2 ton w/ gears mentioned previously, especially behind
an auto. trans.; great for cruising at highway speeds, plenty beefy, and the
bolt pattern will match your early p-up front wheels/hubs. If using wider rims
and tires, you may have to narrow the left side axle housing to center the
diff. and keep the tires inside the fenders. I had to narrow mine 4-5/16" to
keep my slightly wider tires inside my '36 coupe. Another option is the earlier
57-59 pass. car 9" which are slightly more narrow than the p-ups, but also
have a smaller, non-matching bolt pattern. Use an open drive-line, not the
old torque tube assy.
Have fun with your project.....
Robb
P.S. re gear ratios; Some rear-ends will still have the tag attached on the
front (bolt side) of the diff. Most 60's - 70"s models will stipulate the actual
ratio, rather than a code.
Last edited by Robb Harding; Dec 26, 2005 at 06:42 PM. Reason: P.S. re gear ratios
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 785
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From: Canada
Diff Question
Just for the record, on the 5 1/2 on 5 inch bolt pattern. The cars are the same from 40-48, then the trucks are the same up to 95. The hub caps will fit the 1940-48 cars/truck, then the truck from 48-56.
this is if you want to use your original hub caps.
this is if you want to use your original hub caps.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 257
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From: Minnesota
I just picked up a '72 F100 9" for my '46 truck. There was no tag for the ratio so I turned the axle. Turns out it is 3.0. I would like to keep the flathead and original 3 speed in the truck. Does anyone have enough experince to know if this is too close for the flathead?