I've read all the threads about driveshaft clunk, and found the full TSB 03-26-2 from another post on this forum. My 99 Ranger XLT 4x4 with SuperCab fits the bill for this problem to a "T"... except for one thing: in the morning when I start it up in the cold fall weather, it runs smooth for about 5 to 10 minutes. Only then, when things are good and warmed up does it start clunking on start and stop.

I checked the transmission fluid level and noticed that it was high by about an inch on the dip stick. Could this be the cause of this, or are they completely unrelated issues?

The dealer wants about $125 to do the yoke spline grease job, and I'll probably break down and fork it over.... but I'm wondering if I should first try a tranny flush.

Thanks for any insights you might have on this :-)

 

Welcome to FTE!!!

Its a pretty easy job to do yourself, you can buy the grease from Ford. If you don't want to do the work then maybe you could get it done cheaper by a local shop, just supply them with the grease.

 

Thanks for the reply :-)

Do I need a torque wrench for the job? I have wrenches and sockets but not a torque wrench.

 

One follow up question: Does anyone know the difference between TSB 03-26-3 and TSB 04-23-7?

Here's the full TSB 03-26-2 posted in another thread by rockledge which was very helpful:
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra..._Yoke_Lube.pdf

Would anyone be willing to post TSB 04-23-7 as well? :-)

 

Found it (pretty much the same... nothing different that I could see):

 

TSB 4-23-7

FORD: 1998-2005 Ranger


This article supersedes TSB 03-26-2 to update the vehicle model years and service procedure.

ISSUE:
Some Ranger 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency thump type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop and/or when coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration, creating a stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip yoke splines.

ACTION:
A new type of grease is available which will greatly reduce the sticking/binding in the slip yoke during acceleration and deceleration. To service, apply the new grease to the rear driveshaft slip yoke splines. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

NOTE: OTHER DRIVELINE NOISE CONDITIONS WILL NOT BE CORRECTED WITH THIS PROCEDURE. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE RANGER WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR OF ENGAGEMENT CLUNK, TIP-IN/OUT CLUNK OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT CLUNK CONDITIONS.



SERVICE PROCEDURE

DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL

Index (mark) the rear driveshaft to the rear pinion flange and the front of the driveshaft to the transfer case flange.
Remove the rear driveshaft.
SLIP YOKE DISASSEMBLY

CAUTION: DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, CLAMP THE DRIVESHAFT IN THE JAWS OF A VISE OR SIMILAR HOLDING FIXTURE. DENTING OR A FRACTURE CAN RESULT, CAUSING DRIVESHAFT FAILURE DURING VEHICLE OPERATION.



Place the driveshaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube.
Mark the driveshaft and slip yoke on both sides of the boot. Mark the location of the clamp crimps so the new clamps can be installed in the same location (Figure 1).


Figure 1 - Article 04-23-7


Cut and discard the slip yoke boot clamps.
Remove the slip yoke from the driveshaft.
Thoroughly clean the boot making sure to remove all of the old grease and dirt. Inspect the boot for damage.
Inspect the lubricant on the driveshaft splines and in the driveshaft slip yoke for contamination. If contaminated, inspect the driveshaft splines and slip yoke for wear.
Using a stiff NON-METALLIC brush and a suitable solvent, thoroughly clean all the old grease out of the splines on the slip yoke and the driveshaft.
Use compressed air to completely dry both spline areas.
ASSEMBLY

Install the slip yoke boot on the driveshaft (small opening end first).
Install and crimp the small slip yoke boot clamp using a keystone clamp installer (SST 211-002).
Pull the boot toward the driveshaft to expose the splines. Completely coat all slip yoke and driveshaft spline surfaces with the grease supplied in the kit.
Position the large slip yoke boot clamp on the boot (DO NOT CRIMP).
Align the index marks and install the slip yoke on the driveshaft.
Set boot free length as follows:
Remove any excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces.
Position the slip yoke boot in the slip yoke boot groove.
Set the boot length to 3" (76 mm) by sliding the slip yoke. Measure between the inner side of the clamps as shown in (Figure 2).
Bleed the air from the slip yoke boot using a screwdriver as shown in (Figure 2).
Crimp the large slip yoke boot clamp using SST 211-002.


Figure 2 - Article 04-23-7


INSTALL DRIVESHAFT

Align the driveshaft front index mark with the mark on the transfer case flange and install the driveshaft. Torque the bolts to 82 lb-ft (111 N-m).
Align driveshaft rear flange index mark with the mark on the pinion flange and install the driveshaft. Torque the bolts to 83 lb-ft (112 N-m).

PART NUMBER PART NAME
F87Z-4K277-AA Drive Shaft Slip Yoke Kit (Steel Shaft)
4L5Z-4K277-AA Drive Shaft Slip Yoke Kit (Aluminum Shaft)


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
042307A Apply New Grease To The Rear Driveshaft Slip Yoke Splines 0.7 Hr.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
4K277 41

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2004 Ford Motor Company

 

A mechanic friend of mine said that the driveline clunk symptoms were also classic u-joint symptoms. Is that true?

 

That is correct, any type of slack in the driveline can cause this type of noise.

 

I got all set to grease the yoke spline... had the grease kit from Ford (which comes with a new set of clamps, but the boot has to be purchased separately - and you can probably just use the old boot if you're careful).

Got under the truck with a 13mm socket.. only to find out that Ford doesn't use standard bolt heads. They use torke (sp?) heads. Just an FYI to others.

I'll have to run to the auto parts store to get the a torkes socket set before doing this job.

 

Doh - I was dead wrong. The bolts are 12-point 12mm.

 

It's a no-go. I just spent an hour trying to loosen even just one of the bolts, with no luck. Suckers will not budge one single bit. I guess I'll be taking it into the shop and shelling out some more money. I have the grease, the clamps, the 12-point socket, and even the boot clamp pliers... just no luck with the bolts.

 

did you try penetrating oil?

 

Does Wd40 count? (soaked it the night before as well as a few minutes before I started, and twice during the hour I was working on it).

I hate to give up and the thought of having to admit failure motivates me to figure out a way to make it work. I was up late last night looking at other posts and found a few things:

1. Heat causes metal to expand. I'll try working on it Saturday morning first thing when it's nice and cold.

2. Leverage matters. I found an article that showed a guy hooking up two wrenches to provide more leverage, as opposed to relying on my 3/8 inch socket handle.

3. Set the emergency brake and block the tires. I was to the point where I was moving the truck back and forth a few inches while straining to break the bolts loose on the driveshaft... and didn't realize the obvious - that I needed to have the brake set and the tires blocked :-)

I'm hoping I can still get the job done.

 

Your on the right track.

Do yourself a favor and go out and get yourself two very important tools:

1. PB Blaster - it's one of the better bolt breakers you can get and you can find it most anywhere. WD-40 has many good uses, but PB Blaster blows it away with regard to freeing rusted bolts.

2. Breaker Bar(s) - these will save you probably half a dozen rachets or so (and twice as many knuckles) over the course of a lifeftime. I have two or three of them (1/2", 3/4", etc.) and I'm always thinking I could use another. Find them at any parts or tool store.

Also, get yourself a piece of black steel pipe (the kind used for natural gas lines) and cut yourself a few pieces, say 6" to a foot long, foot and half, maybe even two feet, and use these pieces when needed to slide over the handles of the rachet/breaker bar, extending them and hence providing you with even more leverage.

 

Thanks Rockledge - I really appreciate your suggestions and coaching :-)