97' check engine light>>system too lean bank 1 and 2
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Joined: Dec 2004
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97' check engine light>>system too lean bank 1 and 2
97' 5.4 triton v8. check engine light came back on after replacing all 4 o2 sensors. scanner indicates:
P0171 System Too Lean - Bank No. 1.
P0174 System Too Lean - Bank No. 2
anyone have any suggestions? thank you....
P0171 System Too Lean - Bank No. 1.
P0174 System Too Lean - Bank No. 2
anyone have any suggestions? thank you....
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Tucson
Start with the infamous Vacuum leak. Check the elbow behind thh EGR valve and above the PCV valve. People have spent hundreds troubleshooting this only to find it was a 20 cent piece of hose. Altough Ford wants 20 bucks for the kit. Yes it has a kit so you know they go bad alot. Most people just replace it with a piece of heater hose. Good luck...
Dave
Dave
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Southern New England
MAF sensor is inside the tube that comes from the air filter housing. It senses air flow with two filiments. There are articles on cleaning the MAF sensor, if you do a google search.
Cleaning didn't work for mine, I had to replace it. Ford offers remanufactured MAF sensors for about 160.00.
Cleaning didn't work for mine, I had to replace it. Ford offers remanufactured MAF sensors for about 160.00.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: NC
Luzer27 is correct. My '97 had the exact same read-outs. I replaced the Oxy sensors and the light still stayed on. I finally took the thing to the dealer and they found the leak.
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Joe Kucinski
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From: NC
Not sure.
I think it was located some where on top of the engine. There are so many darn hoses and wires with these trucks. I now have an '04 and just had it in for a vacuum hose leak that caused the a/c to come out of the defrost vents and not out of the front vents. This leak was near the fire wall. If you have the right tools and shop manuals that explain where the hoses are, the leak was pretty obvious to the mechanic.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Get out your 20 foot extension ladder and climb up in your engine compartment, with your head towards the pass. side firewall, feet towards drivers side front. get the pvc valve and follow the tubing. it goes back towards the firewall, and then turns right and runs behind and then down the middle of the motor. If I remember correctly, you need to take off the 5.4 triton marked throttle body cover.
It can actually leak at the first turn, or the second. There is an elbow on the second that cracks.
I think $50 at the dealer for the part, then 50 to install, then an initial 90 to put it on the scanner.
Takes about 10 minutes. You also can rig it up to work for about $2.00.
If your problem is also rough idle like the first gentleman, have you cleaned or replaced your IAC? I did both to fix my problem.
It can actually leak at the first turn, or the second. There is an elbow on the second that cracks.
I think $50 at the dealer for the part, then 50 to install, then an initial 90 to put it on the scanner.
Takes about 10 minutes. You also can rig it up to work for about $2.00.
If your problem is also rough idle like the first gentleman, have you cleaned or replaced your IAC? I did both to fix my problem.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: GARLAND, TX
mines, same codes, rough iddle and trembling when accelerating....recently fuse #30 under steering box went out....dont know what cause it to.......
going crazzy lol........i checked and no leaks on that elbow behind intake......it's literally behind engine (you cant see it)if that's the one you mean!
Thanks...any suggestions?
going crazzy lol........i checked and no leaks on that elbow behind intake......it's literally behind engine (you cant see it)if that's the one you mean!
Thanks...any suggestions?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
I have the same codes on my 99 5.4. The CEL comes on right after starting the engine. I have reset them with my Scan Gage. They stay out when the engine is running. My tired old mule has 160K on her now so I guess its time for stuff to start happening.
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okay, so here's the deal. If your light pops on and you get those codes, it just can't be O2 sensors, because that would mean you had two fail at exactly the same time. So it is an air problem. To check vacuum leaks start the engine and get in it with starter fluid and lightly spray it on the PCV lines, and then on the lines behind the motor. If you hear the engine race slightly, you are sucking it in through the vacuum lines, and you have a leak. I didn't think mine was leaking either and was messing with the MAF and egr valve, etc.. I had fixed the first leaking elbow, but not the second, and yes I gave up and went to the dealer, and they replaced the line, and sure enough the elbow I couldn't see was leaking. Now it did it again and that is when I did the IAC, but that was a rough idle. The leak didn't really make a huge engine effect, at least not really noticeable. If I can get under mine today, I'll come back with more. But the best thing to do is disconnect that line and take it out for inspection.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: GARLAND, TX
Re:
Hey thanks for the help.......would ford charge for inspection if i take them the line as you've adviseD?
2nd question....
how much did they charge you about to get that vacum deal repaired?
just thinking if to take it to a regular mechanic or ford if i cant solve this deal as it is driving me crazzy and within me i dont want to give up....i wanna fix it....
2nd question....
how much did they charge you about to get that vacum deal repaired?
just thinking if to take it to a regular mechanic or ford if i cant solve this deal as it is driving me crazzy and within me i dont want to give up....i wanna fix it....
Junior User
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Sorry so long to get back, busy cutting firewood.
The killer is with the dealer they are going to charge you $100.00 to put it on the scanner. They will not work on it without doing so. I told them the codes, and what the problem was, but they still did it, and that machine is big bucks, and I don't blame them.
The part was $56.00 I believe, and under $50.00 labor, it's a quick fix. If you can get it off, you can certainly get it back on. And if that is the case, if it is cracked, take it to an autoparts store and see if you can rig it, or rig an entire new one, which is what I would have done. If not, order the part from ford. When you get it off, it will be obvious if it is bad or not.
So if you want to save $200 then put on your dirty clothes, be prepared to skin a knuckle, and get up on that engine and start running your hand and arm down behind that motor and get that line off!!!!!!!!
Or find a local wrencher and let him do it, and save the $100.00 diag. charge.
Good luck. I was happy to get rid of the CEL.
The killer is with the dealer they are going to charge you $100.00 to put it on the scanner. They will not work on it without doing so. I told them the codes, and what the problem was, but they still did it, and that machine is big bucks, and I don't blame them.
The part was $56.00 I believe, and under $50.00 labor, it's a quick fix. If you can get it off, you can certainly get it back on. And if that is the case, if it is cracked, take it to an autoparts store and see if you can rig it, or rig an entire new one, which is what I would have done. If not, order the part from ford. When you get it off, it will be obvious if it is bad or not.
So if you want to save $200 then put on your dirty clothes, be prepared to skin a knuckle, and get up on that engine and start running your hand and arm down behind that motor and get that line off!!!!!!!!
Or find a local wrencher and let him do it, and save the $100.00 diag. charge.
Good luck. I was happy to get rid of the CEL.