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Hey guys, I have a problem with this 331 build i plastigaged it with green didnt seem right but #s were pretty good. Well this thing is so tight you can't turn it over pulled the pan back off the rod bearings are lookin pretty toasted bottom on some sides on others all the way around in some spots are all shiney. It was supose to be a Hawk crank ends up being some pos japanese thing, should I just pull the crank take it in and have it machined?
Pulled the crank took it in they said it was fine he was going to try to polish it and take another thousanths off of it, I could take the bearings and put them on the crank and they wouldent touch just on one side. Well when I did the plastigage it came out to .004. This thing wouldent turn at all 2 rods on it and tqed good luck even with the flywheel on it. Just dosen't make any sense that bearings don't make full contact at all and its in spec.
thats good the crank is ok. .004" is good if the motor is for race or high performance. some people build them alittle loose for more throttle response. i hope its ok ive wanted to build a 331 for my gt, waiting on time and $.
I just got the crank back from the machine shop got it in. My machine shop guy was saying the tangs for the bearins are supose to be inward or it will be the same way. The crank was in spec, he took alittle off of it and polished it. I have the rods going the way he said but im just worried that they arn't right, when I got them they didn't have any instructions with them so I put them in the way the original rods were. The 331 is going in a lifted 92 bronco, bronc with attitude.
The bearing tangs on 302's (or 331 in your case) go in towards the inside of the motor. If you put them on backwards, they will lock up the motor, or make it very tight to turn. This is because the bearings are offset in the rod a little bit to clear the radius(the corner of the journal). If put on backwards, the bearings will rub the radius or lock up the crank. I think .004 rod clearance is a little to much rod oil clearance. Should be like what smoke n tires said in his post.
Take a look at the big end of the connecting rods where the bearings go in. One side might have a larger chamfer than the other side. The side with the larger chamfer will go against the radius of the crankshaft. If this is still binding up on you, next thing would be to have the big ends of the connecting rods measured by your machinist. Maybe they were machined wrong.
You could also put a rod cap with the bearing in it on the journal and just look for clearance in the radius area. Flip the cap both ways and you should see one way with the right clearance.
So if im reading this right being its 2am, I might just have these things in the wrong way creating a bind. or am i just to tired to comprehend what is being said the tang for the bearing has always gone to the inside ill try anything right now.
You didn't by any chance swap rod caps from one rod to another did you? Have seen that happen and will lock up a motor. Another thing is make sure the bearing tangs are together on both rod and cap. If not they will spin on you.
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