Turbo flutter
#1
Turbo flutter
Hello Guys, this past saturday I was pulling a trailer w/two Atv's on it & about 300lbs of gear in the bed up the mountain passes here in Utah at about -10 degrees outside and at about 10lbs of boost I was getting alot of flutter, well what I think was flutter, first time I have heard this but it is also the first time I have pulled with my PSD. I thought you had to be boosting upwards of 20-25lbs to get this am I wrong? or is something wrong with my PSD?
Afe stage 1 intake, 4 inch ATS exhaust, gauges, chipped!
Afe stage 1 intake, 4 inch ATS exhaust, gauges, chipped!
Last edited by alopez2; 12-08-2004 at 11:05 AM.
#2
Actually, the RPM determines surge/stall. Take off the OD and you will not here it or back out of the throttle a bit. I am installing a Wicked Wheel this weekend. This is suppose to fix that problem. It has variable length blades to allow air in at all RPM's. I will post the results.
You are not using the air your intake is allowing in and it has to "retreat" so to speak and that is what you here.
You are not using the air your intake is allowing in and it has to "retreat" so to speak and that is what you here.
#3
#4
To my knowledge, the Wicked Wheel only fixes the surge problem, not the flutter problem. The surge is on the intake side. The flutter comes from the exhaust side. The flutter is the sound that you get when the exhaust blade cuts up the flowing exhaust gases. All PSD's flutter. Surge is noticed almost always when you put an exhaust system on your truck. Some exhausts dissapate the flutter better than others
#5
That Makes sense. I must have surge then. I just put mods on about 800 miles ago and this was the first time I really had any load on it since then. I guess it's time to tell the wife I NEED a wicked wheel! they are only like $50 aren't they? which one would you use? are there different ones? Thanks guys.
#6
Yeah! Tell her it's a necessary mod.... Yes, they're only around $50, but kind of a pain to install. Some perfomance diesel shops will do it for under $200. Here's a link to a turbo flutter thread.....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...utter+problem+
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...utter+problem+
#7
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#9
Originally Posted by shendoa
do you get more boost with the wicked wheel, and can i buy one for my 96PSD and where do i get it??
#10
Has anyone seen it installed with the Turbo still on the truck? I have heard about this and thought I would try it first.[/QUOTE]
Yes you can install the WW this way. I do not recommend it as you can severly damage the veins on the exhaust side of the turbo by doing this. When I put my WW in I pulled the turbo, deleted the EBPV, put in the HX pressure crossover, CCV bypass and fixed the pedistal o-ring leak that almost all Factory PSD's have. Did it all in one shot, big time saver if all done right !!!!
Fire Rooster
Yes you can install the WW this way. I do not recommend it as you can severly damage the veins on the exhaust side of the turbo by doing this. When I put my WW in I pulled the turbo, deleted the EBPV, put in the HX pressure crossover, CCV bypass and fixed the pedistal o-ring leak that almost all Factory PSD's have. Did it all in one shot, big time saver if all done right !!!!
Fire Rooster
#11
FR, Thanks,
I am in Wyoming so I think I need the EBPV. I have the HX mod done and I can do the CCV without too much hassel.
What do you think of the following directions without using an impact. I found these on another site.
Here is the way to do it on the truck just did mine and it works great
1. Remove the 2 mm bolts from the wastegate acuater on the turbo.
2. Remove the 8mm bolts that hold the 2 halves of the compressor housing together. you'll need a 1/4" drive 4" "wobbly" extension to get to the bottom back one cuz of the valve cover.
3. Remove the V-clamp where the Turbo goes into the Y-pipe.
4. On the exhaust side of the Turbo, Loosen the V-clamp from the down pipe. push it back and block it so the exhaust outlet is exposed.
Take a break.
5. Split the compressor housing, exposing the stock wheel.
6. With a screwdriver with tape wrapped around it, stick it in the exhaust side or the Turbo and "catch" one of the vanes (they are steel), with a 5/8's wrench remove the stock wheel (left to loosen). install the Wicked wheel. It calls for 10 inch lbs of torque... I "snugged it up" good. (it's tightening it's self in the direction of rotation)
7. Reverse this procedure and yer DONE !
Now ... this sounds like "Pure Shade Tree" I know but all your really doing here is what you would do if you removed the Turbo and made the wheel change on your bench. And keep in mind, your doing ALL of this on your Belly, lay'n across yer engine and .... removing the Turbo involves those "O" rings, gaskets and that Damn v-clamp you cant see.
This way is easier and faster.
HINTS: use a 12 point 5/16's for the 8mm bolts. gives you some slack (angles) in R & R them.
The leading edges of the Wheel vanes are as sharp as a Razor, use a rag to R & R.
Thats It
I am in Wyoming so I think I need the EBPV. I have the HX mod done and I can do the CCV without too much hassel.
What do you think of the following directions without using an impact. I found these on another site.
Here is the way to do it on the truck just did mine and it works great
1. Remove the 2 mm bolts from the wastegate acuater on the turbo.
2. Remove the 8mm bolts that hold the 2 halves of the compressor housing together. you'll need a 1/4" drive 4" "wobbly" extension to get to the bottom back one cuz of the valve cover.
3. Remove the V-clamp where the Turbo goes into the Y-pipe.
4. On the exhaust side of the Turbo, Loosen the V-clamp from the down pipe. push it back and block it so the exhaust outlet is exposed.
Take a break.
5. Split the compressor housing, exposing the stock wheel.
6. With a screwdriver with tape wrapped around it, stick it in the exhaust side or the Turbo and "catch" one of the vanes (they are steel), with a 5/8's wrench remove the stock wheel (left to loosen). install the Wicked wheel. It calls for 10 inch lbs of torque... I "snugged it up" good. (it's tightening it's self in the direction of rotation)
7. Reverse this procedure and yer DONE !
Now ... this sounds like "Pure Shade Tree" I know but all your really doing here is what you would do if you removed the Turbo and made the wheel change on your bench. And keep in mind, your doing ALL of this on your Belly, lay'n across yer engine and .... removing the Turbo involves those "O" rings, gaskets and that Damn v-clamp you cant see.
This way is easier and faster.
HINTS: use a 12 point 5/16's for the 8mm bolts. gives you some slack (angles) in R & R them.
The leading edges of the Wheel vanes are as sharp as a Razor, use a rag to R & R.
Thats It
#12
You can do it this way and that is up to you but I am telling you that it does not spin free that easy and I am personally against jambing a screwdriver covered or not in blindly into my turbo. cause guess what you will not be able to see if you bend or flex the blades or not, throw it off balance and you'll find out when it is spinning at 140,000 rpms. As for the bolts that hold the turbo housing together. HHMMMM i remember breaking a couple of 12 point sockets trying to loosen them up. Now I cannot imagine lying over that motor trying to put that much torque on them while the sharp edges I am laying on tear ME apart. Just my opinion. I have worked on a few of my friends trucks and my own. I have probably pulled and installed turbos on these PSD's about 7-8 times. No it is not easy but better then the other way I would say.
Fire Rooster
Fire Rooster
#13
OK, you convinced me. I was a little worried about that screwdriver thing. I spent some time on my belly putting on the new exhaust. I have all weekend and I did order the o-rings with the WW so I will do it right.
Is the turbo sound pretty intense? I have an aftermarket intake as well and straight pipe exhaust.
Thanks
Is the turbo sound pretty intense? I have an aftermarket intake as well and straight pipe exhaust.
Thanks
#14
#15
Originally Posted by Fire Rooster
I am not sure what you mean by intense? It is a different sound more of a high picthed sound and increasing in volume as it spools up faster. I personally like the sound better, it just sounds more effective, closer to the big rigs.
Fire Rooster
Fire Rooster