[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Sep-02 AT 02:08 PM (EST)]Thought it'd be fun to share ideas on how we maintain our Rangers mechanicly. More so than just the normal stuff, exactly what do you do to prevent mechanical failures? Here's my list:

1.Every 5000 miles change oil+filter and put fuel injector cleaner in gas. Every fourth or fith oil change I put motor flush in the motor before the change.
2.Every three or four oil changes I change the PCV, air filter, and lube the chasey. I like to clean the air filter box out with a rag and solvent.
3.Every five or six oil changes I spray EFI safe throttle body cleaner down the intake and change the fuel filter. I also clean the MAF sensor (remove it and spray it with EFI safe throttle body cleaner). I also lube the doors, pedels, and other hinges and latches. This is the time I also like to degrease the motor, power wash it, and then spray it with engine detailer. Inspect the drive belt and change it if needed.
4.Every spring and fall I flush the radiator and the overflow.
5.Once a year I'll siphon out the power stearing, master cylinder, and clutch resevoirs a bit, then put in fresh fluid. (any info on how to drain the power stearing or clutch for complete flush?)
6.Every 100,000 miles I change the differential and manual gear box fluids with synthetics. I also change the plugs and put in Bosch platnums. This is the time you should change the plug wires...which I haven't done yet. :')
7. Whenever I do front rotors I replace the wheel bearings.
8. I always use never seeze on all bolts and nuts for future ease.

So far my 94 2.3 has over 200,000 miles on it with very little trouble. Like to hear your tips and anything you can add.

 

1998 2.5 148,000 miles and counting. I'm servicing this puppy next month and I'll be dumping and replacing ALL fluids. Brake, Clutch, Trans, Diff, Antifreeze and washer juice. Also doing front and rear brakes, (fluid flush) and changing out front wheel bearings.

Is there a lifespan specified for rear bearings and seals? I've changed out rear ends and I'd rather keep this one rolling than burn one up on the highway.

Also: belts and hoses. I've swapped out the serpentine and timing belt. Wondering about the lifespan of the stock hoses: heater, radiator , A/C, etc. I figure that 4 years is about enough.

CB

 

I'm also wondering about the rear bearings and seals. I just noticed (as I'm in the process of changing the leaf springs) that the driver's side rear tire is "loose". In other words, it will move in and out about an 1/8th of in inch. I'm going to pop the tire and make sure it's mounted right on the hub, but I'm guessing it's the hub moving.

On hoses: I am still using the originals (I think I never changed them). The last time I serviced them I simply cut off the end of the hose (where it was going bad) and the rest looked fine. I'm not too worried about a radiator hose blowing or caving in because you'll either see the steam or notice a rise in engine temp. I had noticed before that the big hose connecting to the bottom of the PCV valve was slipping off. I replaced it with a new hose and put a hose clamp lightly around the new one to snug it in place.

Just did a component check on the coil packs. Real easy to do using an owm meter. Simply pull off the electrical connector on the pack and put the meter across the middle and outter contact. Then check the other outter and middle contact. Both should read around 5 or 6 owms. Next, pull off the plug wires connections at the coil pack. The coil pack should tell you which two cylinders fire together (1 and 3 and 2 and 4?). Put the meter on each pair that fires together. Resistance should be around 15 or 16K owms, I think. Easy way to check is just look for a pair that has an abnormaly higher or lower resistance than the other pairs. I'm worried about mine because the plug wires are original motorcrafts. They look so good I hate to change them. Am I pushing my luck? Probably next do a short test ...open the hood at night with engine running and look for sparks. Can also spray the wires with soapy water and listen/look for a short.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 15-Sep-02 AT 01:37 PM (EST)]Greetings - I generally change oil (& filter), on avg., around 3-4 months, 3-4000 miles - but have been known to change at 1,500-2000 or let it ride to 6000 miles depending on usage (and EXPECTED usage -demands placed or anticipated, long trips, mountains, hauling, off road, etc.) and off course season (more frequent winter\summer, tend to focus on other stuff spring\autumn - and I think demands on metal lubrication\wear & tear "tend" to be less severe, though I have changed a filter mid-way of an extended interval). A little habit I picked up many years ago (from a "Hot Rod" magazine) was\is to 'fill' the oil filter (as much as possible) with new oil when doing a change - keeps the oil pump from starving for a few potentially critical seconds (which I believe over the life of the pump, and numerous oil changes, helps to prolong pump life [?]). I think alot of folks have taken up this practice (simple and FREE insurance). As far as alot of the other stuff, I TRY to go by the book on "severe usage\service" (even though most of my driving, I'd guess 60-75%, could be described as "normal"). Again, I figure TRYING to stick to the severe schedule is some measure of protection. I figure rubber parts are relatively cheap and obviously would prefer to do 'preventative' maintenance than 'emergency\roadside a.k.a. "BREAKDOWN" maintenance. One of the big rubber companies (think it was Gates) used to say 4-years\60k - I figure thats a good rule of thumb, as they want to sell as much rubber as they can, though I wouldn't want any 4-banger to go over that (much) or most 'sixes' for that matter - unless maybe I lived somewhere like San Diego where the temp. doesn't fluctuate much - less expanding and constricting of the rubber. I, unfortunately, have not been able to keep my Ranger up as I would really like to the past 6 months as I have been out with a spinal-cord injury - the injury didn't slow me as much as the lack of $. Also having a 13 month-old, a 16 yr-old and the oldest in college has re-arranged my luxury (or lack thereof - ha!) budget considerably. Had my surgery a month ago but will probably be another month and a half before back to work, as I have to go through some vocational rehab. and it takes about three months for the neck bones to completely fuse. Interesting thread - thanks - Glenn... PS I do not rotate tires unless I have good reason. Also when pressed for time (usually) or because I'm cheap (always) I've been known to let a lower radiator hose go longer as they don't run as hot as the upper hose, though there are a number of variables to consider such as how often I do a flush. I personally don't think you are pushing your luck with platinum spark plugs and modern wires as I have seen `em exceed 100k and still look good and be working fine, without excessive abuse.

 

If you've got 1/8" in movement on the hub then I'd tear it down, pronto. I believe that rear axle bearing play is measured in thousanth's , not fractions. I don't wanna sound like Chicken Little here and I may be wrong, but I've seen more than one vehicle on the side of the highway with an axle half-shaft sticking out a foot or more.
cb

 

What maintenance? I put gas in the tank and it goes. 150,000 miles and going strong..........

 

Well then greenpus if that's a fact, you're about to get a reality check! :-staun

 

1/4 inch play in the axle side to side is no big deal. Up and down and front to rear is when you have problems. The axle is a Dana 28 the axles are held in with c clips. This is normal movement. The movement that you feel is between the c clip and the spider pinion shaft.
Cooter

 

111,000 miles and all I do is pull into a Valvoline Instant Oil Change place every 4,000 miles or so and get the plain oil/lube service. I had them do the transmission and the rear diff once. Also had them do the radiator flush thing. I use those fuel injector cleaners maybe once a month, or when I remember to do so. I've replaced the plugs, wires, shocks, brake pads and brake shoes.

 

You didn't mention year or model, but if you've got a serpentine belt you might want to buy a new one and throw it on. It's a fast job and can keep all sorts of bad things from ruining your weekend.
I hate getting dusted over a $20 part.
CB

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Sep-02 AT 00:12 AM (EST)]Good point about year and model, also excellent advice pertaining to drive- belt, I would add - ALL things 'rubber'. Tires and hoses - and an ice storm (guess it depends where one lives and drives) can put a damper on ones day - silicone the weather-stripping and lube the door locks- and maybe the ignition switch. And Prop-Head, that's pretty much all one can do, and really all one needs to do (don't forget the battery) to keep one (and ones family, friends, co-workers as well as the drivers BEHIND one) out of hot (or cold!) water! Regular, routine (RELIGIOUS) PREVENTative MAINTENANCE!!!

 

There are a few things the Ranger is prone to that you guys should also keep an eye on. Early 90s models have problems with balljoints going bad. Keep an eye on your front tire wear. As I've said in another message, leaf springs on the early 90s models also tend to break at the inner leaf. If yours havent yet then I'd do two things to help prevent it...make sure you've got good shocks on the rear to relieve a little stress on them. The best way to prevent leaf spring failure is probably to put a helper leaf on.

Although these trucks are galvanized over most of the lower sheet metal some areas of regular metal are prone to rust. Look at the support member under the radiator. I just caught the fact that mine was starting to rust a bit when I removed the radiator to change the timing belt. I used a drill with a wire brush head on it to remove all the loose scale, then sprayed it with rust killing flat enamel (has zinc in it). The metal support member going across the top of the engine (just in front of the radiator on top) also tends to rust. Catch it early.

 

well critterhunter, I read a post I believe by ken00 about flushing the power steering unit. Vehicle off and a helper remove the hose from the pump (the hose with the clamp) this is the return line! Cap or plug the port the line hooks to, have a helper hit the key and you will see ugly nasty fluid going into the container, while this is going on keep adding new fluid to the resovoir until you see new fluid coming from the line. Shut off vehicle remove plug on port re attach line with clamp and fill resovoir to proper limits. New here just repeating somethin I read. 88 4x4

 

Just an FYI, this thread is over 3 years old.