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Not sure about 1996 F250 rear brake line, pinched?
My 1996 F250 4x4 has the 12x3 rear drum brakes. On the rear left wheel area, I was able to free the brake line fitting that went to the old wheel cylinder, it appears the fitting itself had been rounded some; prior to my being able to loosen it. I felt some tight threading while turning the brake line fitting on the new wheel cylinder, before the tool slipped off the fitting. I did see a few small air bubbles while I was threading the brake line fitting back on the new wheel cylinder, but there was still some fluid remaining in the brake master reservoir. As a result of this tool having slipped off, it appears the brake line just behind the wheel cylinder appears to have been pinched, and this would make me suspect a reduced amount of brake fluid would flow through the line to that new wheel cylinder. Should I replace the rear left brake line, and if so what would be some suggestions of places for pre-bent rear axle brake lines? Or should I attempt to bleed the system and see if the pinched area of this rear left brake line stays intact and doesn't leak?
Pre-bent line is only available as a kit so unless you are going to replace them all that doesn’t work. I would buy a piece of steel or nickel copper tubing to replace the line from the junction block to the wheel cylinder. One end will screw into to the block or cylinder. Bend to match the old line. Cut and flare the other end.
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Yesterday at 03:14 AM.
My local parts stores stock (used to anyway) a selection of pre flared / nuts, various sizes and lengths, of Nicopp lines. Nicopp is easy to bend by hand. I used a couple pre made lengths like that on the rear brakes lines of my ‘96 yrs ago.
If all your lines are original, considering the age, not a bad idea to order a pre made kit from someone like Inline Tubes and replace all of them. Hoses too.
in a pinch i would use it, but i would also replace it as that line is old, and will fail sooner or later.
i make my own likes out of alloy brake tubing. i used to have to change brake lines on my plow trucks every 2-3 years. since i switched to alloy lines on all vehicles as they start leaking, , i have not changed one in over 20 years.
That fitting is a gonner - and so is the pinched metal brake line. Line is easily replaced with new line from your local parts store. Buy a premade section w/fittings, cut and re-flare as necessary.
Hail-Mary option - cut the line as close to the fitting as you can get it, and then you can try a toothed extractor-type socket
Failing that, you'll be replacing that wheel cylinder as well (which will also make bleeding the brakes easier with a non-rusted bleeder screw!)
The amount of brake fluid flow through a brake system is not much. The clearances between the pads and rotors/drums is darn near nothing. So, you are pushing enough fluid to move the pads to make contact. The most amount of flow is done by bleeding the system.
If I were you, I would swap out the rubber brake hoses too. They are 30 years old, they tend to be cheap, and you've got to bleed the system anyway. The bad thing about bulk line is it is rarely the exact size you need. What are you going to do with the excess?
If I remember correctly the flare nut at the wheel cylinder and the flare nut at the junction block are two different size thread diameter. Might be worth taking a close look at that before you flare the wrong size nut on one end.
When I replaced the front calipers and pads last year on this truck; I replaced the front brake hoses in those spots at the same time. It appears that the SS tubes website has a rear axle brake hose kit of two (2) hoses, TRA9641 that can be ordered either with mild steel or stainless steel...has anyone ordered from them?
Not sure about 1996 F250 rear brake line, pinched?
