Spring Advice - 2016 F250 4x4 Slide in Camper
I recently installed a custom bed & slide in camper on my F250. All of my research pointed to going up one level above the factory spring rate on the rear springs when adding a bed camper. Since my truck came with 2+1, 2700#, springs, I ordered a set of 3+1, 3600#, springs which would give me an additional 1800# "capacity" without riding like a 10 speed on a gravel road when unloaded. The camper "should" weigh just under 1800# with propane & water, however it weighed about 500 hundred pounds more than I expected; even accounting for additional gear.
The new springs also seem to be a lot weaker than I expected. Apparently I don't understand spring math as well as I thought I did.
As you can see in the photo below, the rear springs are at/beyond their limit. The photo may not show it well, but the spring is deflected so much that it's W shaped. The guy at a local spring company mentioned that he has had "problems" with Power10 Parts springs and will not use them anymore which makes me wonder if this is just a bad set. So before I spend more money on springs, I'd like to get some advice from you guys.
Power10 Parts 43-1705 3600# springs
What I have:
43-1705 - 4(3/1) leaf, 3600 lbs capacity = 7200# Total
My Upgrade Options:
43-1681HD - 6(5/1) leaf, 4400 lbs capacity = 8800# Total
43-1717HD - 6(5/1) leaf, 6800 lbs capacity = 13600# Total
The current springs are so maxed out that an "add-a-leaf" won't help much.
The 1717HD is such a huge jump that I might as well just weld the axle to the frame to get the same ride.
The 1681HD appears to be the only option, but will it be enough? Too much?
Truck Specs:
2016 F-250 XLT 4x4
Crew Cab, SRW, Short Bed
New Falken Wildpeak A/T4W All Terrain LT265/70R17 123/120S EEngine: 6.2L 2-Valve SOHC EFI NA V8 Flex-Fuel
3.73 Axle Ratio
GVWR: 10,000 lb Payload Package
Transmission w/Driver Selectable Mode and Oil Cooler
Part-Time Four-Wheel Drive
4-Wheel Disc Brakes w/4-Wheel ABS, Front And Rear Vented Discs, Brake Assist and Hill Hold Control
Have no experience with a camper, daily drive my truck and just use it to plow my driveway with a Meyer 8 foot Lot Pro.
Pics of my rear spring with contact overload spring.
Both were recently replaced, under warranty which expired December 2023, because the main spring cracked... both sides. This is common on not only Ford leaf springs, but on other brands as well from what I have heard. It happened to my 96 F250 as well.
I'm not a big fan of airbags due to the fact that they can have multiple failure points, especially as they get older, and could leave me stranded, off road, 3000 miles from home. There's also the cost factor.
I got the current springs through my Autozone Pro account so returning them shouldn't be a problem. I just want to make sure that I get the right springs this time so I don't have any issues later on.
Have no experience with a camper, daily drive my truck and just use it to plow my driveway with a Meyer 8 foot Lot Pro.
Both were recently replaced, under warranty which expired December 2023, because the main spring cracked... both sides. This is common on not only Ford leaf springs, but on other brands as well from what I have heard. It happened to my 96 F250 as well.
I have put together a large chart for spring codes, springs, and rates. BUT without a VIN to purchase the springs at the parts counter, you are hosed. Engineering numbers, which are the numbers you see on the coil or the leaf, are not what the parts counter guys search. ONLY by VIN
Last edited by 2015 F-350; May 24, 2026 at 01:09 PM.
Trending Topics
Year...Model..............VIN..................... ..4WD...Label Spring Code...Front GAWR..Rear GAWR.....GVWR
2016..F-350...1FT8W3BT3GEC08560...Yes.............DDLL.... ...............5600................7000........... 11500
Spring callouts by FORD at FordPartsGiant by VIN for this rear GAWR 7000lb rating:
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/page_...=&partNumbers=
Last edited by 2015 F-350; May 24, 2026 at 08:51 AM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The springs that you have are Ford BC3Z-5560-E Springs which are the same as these from the General Spring website:
2011 - 2016 Ford F250 / F350 Super Duty rear leaf spring,
3(2/1) leaf with Top Helper Leaf, 2700 lbs (Main) / 450 lbs (Top) (3150 lbs total)
SKU: 43-1853 $319.99 ea.
Those are the same as my OEM springs, but with an added top helper leaf.
My current springs specs are:
2008 - 2016 Ford Super Duty rear leaf spring,
4(3/1) leaf, 3600 lbs capacity (3600 lbs total)
SKU: 43-1705 $264.99 ea.
So the springs that I have now should be stronger than what you have. The GVWR is based on the frame, axle, suspension, etc..., but mostly, on the axle capacity. The 2700 lbs 3(2+1) springs are designed for a soft ride with no, or a light, load. Add a couple thousand pounds to the bed, and they are going to sag.
What I'm looking for is a spring that can handle all of the extra weight. I was hoping that someone has already made a similar swap and could point me in the right direction.
I have put together an large chart for spring codes, springs, and rates. BUT without a VIN to purchase the springs at the parts counter, you are hosed. Engineering numbers, which are the numbers you see on the coil or the leaf, are not what the parts counter guys search. ONLY by VIN
The springs that you have are Ford BC3Z-5560-E Springs which are the same as these from the General Spring website:
2011 - 2016 Ford F250 / F350 Super Duty rear leaf spring,
3(2/1) leaf with Top Helper Leaf, 2700 lbs (Main) / 450 lbs (Top) (3150 lbs total)
SKU: 43-1853 $319.99 ea.
Those are the same as my OEM springs, but with an added top helper leaf.
My current springs specs are:
2008 - 2016 Ford Super Duty rear leaf spring,
4(3/1) leaf, 3600 lbs capacity (3600 lbs total)
SKU: 43-1705 $264.99 ea.
So the springs that I have now should be stronger than what you have. The GVWR is based on the frame, axle, suspension, etc..., but mostly, on the axle capacity. The 2700 lbs 3(2+1) springs are designed for a soft ride with no, or a light, load. Add a couple thousand pounds to the bed, and they are going to sag.
What I'm looking for is a spring that can handle all of the extra weight. I was hoping that someone has already made a similar swap and could point me in the right direction.
OP, you want my VIN, let me know and I'll post here again.
When one of my rear springs cracked in my 96 F250 here in my sig, I want to a local spring spring shop and told them what I wanted... a set of one ton rear springs because I had a Dana 60, with 2 AAL in front factory springs, so they went with a set of one ton rated springs in back. Cannot remember if they replaced the spring block or not.
Last edited by Overkill2; May 24, 2026 at 12:16 PM. Reason: add to post
I already have your VIN. You didn't cross out the barcode. That's how I found what your spring pack was. LOL
I say this all the time and do it all the time: just Frankenpack it. Take your OEM springs and add at least two leafs. Add springs which are as long as reasonably possible as longer leafs make for the best load capacity and ride quality.
You can get new u-bolts made up at any spring shop. You can easily make a center pin by turning a hex head round.
You can cut longer leafs to stagger into your existing pack. Just bevel the edges a bit with a flapper wheel or sanding disc. I do this often.
This is an extremely empowering and affordable way to increase load capacity. If you don't final-torque the u-bolts and have enough thread (most aftermarket u-bolts are threaded WAY down the legs) you can always take it back apart and add another leaf if it sags too much when you add two.
I agree airbags seem like the best of all worlds but it comes at an extreme price to long-term reliability.
Don't know if F350/450 springs would fit, but that might be an option. And keep in mind, DOT don't care what springs or axles you put under the truck you cant carry more than the sticker in the door. And your already over about 300 lbs.
Last edited by Stumblefoot; May 24, 2026 at 05:23 PM.
I say this all the time and do it all the time: just Frankenpack it. Take your OEM springs and add at least two leafs. Add springs which are as long as reasonably possible as longer leafs make for the best load capacity and ride quality.
You can get new u-bolts made up at any spring shop. You can easily make a center pin by turning a hex head round.
You can cut longer leafs to stagger into your existing pack. Just bevel the edges a bit with a flapper wheel or sanding disc. I do this often.
This is an extremely empowering and affordable way to increase load capacity. If you don't final-torque the u-bolts and have enough thread (most aftermarket u-bolts are threaded WAY down the legs) you can always take it back apart and add another leaf if it sags too much when you add two.
I agree airbags seem like the best of all worlds but it comes at an extreme price to long-term reliability.













