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Looking for some help. I just replaced my lever style clutch with a diaphragm style (perfection) 10” clutch and new flywheel (luk) as well. I’m not getting full clutch disengagement somehow and I’m running out of threads/length on the adjustment next to the bell housing where the rod meets the lever. When the engine is running and clutch fully pressed down reverse grinds and I can’t get it into first at all. With the engine off I can get it into reverse. Ford 3.03 three on the tree and 6cyl 240ci 65 f250. Advice?
Other members have had the same problem. Assuming you have the correct parts check the release lever to see if it has disengaged from the bearing also the "Z" bar bushings could be missing or worn. A couple of members have had the release lever disengage and have been able to fix that without removing the trans.
As Crop Duster stated make sure all the linkage is good. Look at the clutch fork fulcrum for cracks and that the rivets that hold it are not loose. Try using a ratchet strap to pull the clutch fork as far as it will go and check if the clutch releases enough.
If every thing checks to be good then place a 5/16” flat washer under each mounting ear between the clutch cover and the flywheel .
I have ran into that problem in the past and it will work.
Looks like I’m going to be ordering another clutch (lever style) to get the correct geometry. The diaphragm style one was only 82 bucks, but lots of time to clean underneath and install.
I also saw that you can order a different deeper throw out bearing that may help get me in the adjustment range, but requires dropping the transmission anyway. I didn’t want to chance putting it all back together and still being out of adjustment.
I really thought I did my research beforehand and didn’t know it was that big of a deal switching pressure plate styles. Will update when it’s done. Thanks!
I don't know if this helps, but it is my experience. I swapped a 300 from a 1980 van into a 66 F-100 years ago. I bought a new 1980 van clutch when I did the engine swap. The 1980 van clutch was a diaphragm style, and it worked fine with the 1966 clutch linkage and throw out bearing.
I recently converted a 390 with a top loader on my 55 F100 from a long style to diaphragm pressure plate for a lighter clutch pedal and found that the lighter pedal of a diaphragm comes with more pedal travel required.
I had just enough travel to make it work, I adjusted the clutch by removing the inspection cover and adjusting the linkage to where the throw out bearing is very close to the pressure plate but not touching.
Get under the truck and have someone depress the clutch while you watch and look for any wasted motion from worn parts,
Another thing that you could do is take the cross shaft out and lengthen the part that the rod to the clutch lever attaches to and drill a new hole, I would use a heim joint if you do this
I took out the diaphragm style clutch and put in the 3 finger style (below) and now I literally have no clutch pedal no matter how much I adjust the linkage. How could it possibly get worse. Is this even the right clutch? Don’t know where to go from here besides trying to make the clutch release rod longer. I’m really stumped and don’t feel like taking everything apart a 3rd time unless I’m sure what the problem is.
Can you share a picture or two of what your linkage looks like from pedal to transmission?
second pic shows how much of a gap between at full adjustment Before I’m even hitting any resistance
as far as working ok before, not entirely sure. There was at least some resistance before but the flywheel was all chewed up before and I had to replace the flywheel so I replaced the clutch while I was in there. The truck hasn’t been driven. Unfortunately I don’t have the old clutch that came on the truck anymore.
yeah I have a return spring, just took it off to mess with the linkage. It’s so strange I can’t find someone with a similar issue as me, everyone says the play is in the linkage. I have the the rebuild parts for the z bar on the way and I’m going to check all of the linkage. Just don’t know how it’s got so much more to go before I even get any resistance
You replaced the flywheel. A flywheel with a thinner dimension from clutch surface to crank mounting face will cause this as well. There are .025" crank shims for this. You use up all your stoke just getting the TO brg to the clutch. Not sure about this application, but there may also be an option to shim, or adjust, the ball stud the release lever pivots on.
Before I did anything I would compare stack up dimensions from old parts that worked, to new parts that don't.
Typical when cobbling together race cars/boats, it was fun! You should not be having this issue.
21834803[/url]]I would do the obvious and make the rod longer.
Just an update, I did extend the low clutch rod with a little backyard mechanic fabrication and some harbor freight dies. Got full disengagement and appropriate/ish free play. Pedal feels great, on to the next thing on this rust bucket. Thanks all!
