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Recently the rear hatch has been a problem. It never opens on the 1st try, doesn't matter if i use the button on the hatch, dashboard, or the remote. If I am close to the hatch when I use the remote, I can hear a sound, like it's making a weak effort to open, them re-closes.
After two or three tries, it opens as expected from the dash or remote, bur the button on the hatch works only if I pull the door open.
Worse, 3 times in the past week, after repeatedly struggling with the tailgate hatch, the door would open on it's own after I start to drive.
It sounds like it's probably an alignment issue with the hatch striker. But before you adjust anything, I've got a couple of questions. Is this a power hatch that you're referring to, or manual? Do the gas lift support struts still work well to open the hatch, or even when unlatched do you have to use your strength to fully open the hatch? And once fully open, does the hatch stay fully open or does it "settle" an inch or so once you let go of it? If the struts are weak, and not even to the point of failing yet, they could cause a power hatch to not be able to open the hatch on their own.
It is a power lift. The power lift struts are working ok, lift well, no sag.
Is it possible that it is an electrical issue? Sometimes when I am standig at the back of the car with the remote, I can hear a faint click when I press the button to open the door. But if I use the button on th door it doesn't do anything.
Then 15 min later it will work.
It is certainly possible that it could be an electrical issue, and it's also possible it could be more than one issue. The description of hearing the click when using the fob, but not when using the button on the physical liftgate could quite easily be due to a broke wire. The button on the liftgate might route all the way back to the remote access module or generic electronic module, or whichever module controls the power liftgate in your Escape. And if that liftgate gets used quite a lot, it wouldn't be unrealistic to think there could be a broken wire in the accordion boot between the liftgate and the cabin. And that wire may make an intermittent connection depending on position of the liftgate, how much of an incline you're parked on, and even ambient temperature. I'd need to spend some quality time with the schematic to confirm how the switch wiring is routed. If it is routed to a module, it's also likely that you could monitor that signal with a scan tool to determine if the signal is making it to the module or not to help diagnose the issue.
The button on the hatch sends a signal to the BCM and the BCM opens the lift gate by sending a signal over the network. Since the remote works the network should be OK and the button may be faulty. Here is the wiring diagram. Easiest check is to measure the button signal at the BCM. Otherwise you have to remove.panels on the lift gate.