Hi,

did a complete rebuild on my 1966 352 FE out of my F100. Connecting rod bearing were dated in the early 1980’s. Based on what i know of the truck, this is the second rebuild of the engine.

heads rebuilt, hardened valve seats installed, reputable builder completed the head work.

block was decked. Oem factory length pushrods 9.621”.

felpro head gasket

installed comp cams DLC hydraulic lifters # 310203016

installed comp cams cam# 33-234-4 (supposed to be a mildly hotter RV type cam). I was assured by the head builder and comp cams this was all doable with factory pushrods and valve springs.

now that everything is in the truck it had no compression…..because of excessive valve preload holding valve partly open once the lifters pumped up with oil. Everything is clearing the pistons.

I looked into shimming the rocker towers, beings my rockers are non-adjust. Installed some washers to get an idea of what i was dealing with. I made it to .155” before i got pressure off the pushrod and could rotate it in my fingers.

tried calling comp cams 3 times over several days, spent atleast 30min on hold each time. Still have yet to make contact with them. Will try again Monday.

in short, what is going on!?!?!?!? what did i build wrong????

Do i need custom length pushrods now? Do i need to locate adjustable rocker assemblies.

super frustrated with this…..need help

 

There is no universe where a decked FE with fresh seats and a Comp RV cam magically works with stock pushrods and non‑adjustable rockers. Since this is a hydraulic‑lifter setup, the goal wouldn't normally be to add adjustability - it’s simply to get the preload into the correct range. On an FE the machine shop sets installed height by cutting the valve seats, setting spring height and then grinding the valve stem tips to bring all stem heights back into spec. This is standard practice.

If you continue to have preload issues after that then custom-length pushrods would be the best way to go in my book.

 

Thank you for responding to the post!!

This is my first engine build on anything ever, so i’m learning.

I’m confident the heads were set up correctly, so this is a “me” issue. The guy has been doing heads for 30+ years and has done work for friends and family…..never had any issue until now.

i’ll look into new pushrods….

 

They make adjustable pushrods, but the idea is to buy one and use it as a checking tool to determine the correct custom pushrod length you actually need. Once you know the right length, you order a full set. Here’s a chart of the standard FE pushrod sizes for reference.

With the block decked and the valve job done, it’s normal for stock pushrods to be the wrong length. The adjustable checker just tells you what the engine actually wants for preload.

 

I AM SURE HE MEANT AFTER DETERMINING PROPER PUSH-ROD LENGTH ...

That Is What They Failed To Mention Or Assumed You Were Familiar With Finding Correct Valve-Lash

PUSH-ROD (6565) - FE - Differing Service Lengths For Proper Valve Lash - 1960 - 64 CAR MPC




Check Cataloging For Proper Year Application

MELLINGS AND/OR PERFECT CIRCLE SHOULD OFFER THEM

What are using as a TECH (REPAIR INFO) SOURCE?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

What are using as a TECH (REPAIR INFO) SOURCE?

“I” am using reprints of the Ford factory repair manuals for my repair/technical info. The orange, two book, multi volume prints by detroit iron.

I appreciate the info. I’ll look at melling and perfect circle pushrods.

 

How did you end up with those lifters?? The lifters you have are for small blocks, 385's and 335 series engines they have 2.020 seat height. The Comp lifters for an FE are 834-1's with 1.880 seat height. Also, I suspect the seat cup in the lifters you have are for 5/16 diameter pushrods and your pushrods probably have 3/8 diameter ball ends.
And like TA455 said you must check pushrod length whenever you install a non-stock cam.
If you end up buying new lifters try these. Valve Tappet - 1958-72 Ford Trucks & Cars | Dennis Carpenter
I used these in a 200 I6 that I installed new cam bearings in for a young friend of mine. According to Carpenter they made them in house the packages were dated 1988 which is a good thing since sometime in the 1990's most of the flat tappet manufacturing went to Mexico and China and they have been hit or miss ever since.

 

i was after the hardened coating on the lifter, due to hearing the hit/miss nature of currently made lifters. I asked and spoke to comp cams in depth regarding the application. I was un-aware i was apparently buying the wrong lifters.

 

Get on Summits site and read the applications for those lifters. Can you use them in an FE? Sure, you can but you will have to buy custom length pushrods with a 5/16 ball on one end and a 3/8 ball on the other end.

 

yup, got it. Whats the point of a tech line, if the genius can’t sell me the correct product.

 

For Gods sake, please tell me there is a way to snake the lifters out and get new ones in without yanking the engine and opening up my freshly sealed/painted/installed engine?

 

I do believe it is possible to change lifters on an FE with a special tool. I have never tried it myself, but I believe the shop manual shows how to do it. Most engines require removing the intake manifold. Personally, if I were going to change lifters, I would remove the intake manifold that way you get access to the cam lobes so you can apply more pre-lube to them. I highly recommend Driven assembly grease for that.
As far as tech lines it depends on who you get on the other end of the line most of them are just reading from a computer screen. My advice is to read, read, read then buy.

 

If you don't want to open up the engine do some research on custom pushrods there are companies that will make you anything you want. But as stated before you need a pushrod length checking pushrod, so you know exactly the length you need. Ain't engine building fun

 

I've never used the tool cropduster mentions above but have removed a lifter or 2 with a couple of flexible magnets. They can't come straight out since most of them don't clear the space between the runners and God forbid you drop one below the valley pan. Regardless, it's a true test of your patience and I can guarantee you'll invent some new 4 letter words in the process. I can't imagine doing all 16. IMHO, bite the bullet and remove the intake. If this is your first ever rebuild of anything as you stated, I'd just consider it practice.

__________________
Tony
1965 F250 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...c-s-build.html
Shasta Disasta https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a-rebuild.html
1975 Roll-A-Home https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-a-long.html

 

Now let me ask you a question.

How does the FORD WSM say to determine proper lash ?