Hello everyone, I picked up a 1988 Ford Ranger with a 2.9L, M/T, 4x4 for pretty cheap. the truck had been sitting for awhile so I did a full tune up and replaced a bunch of parts which I will list below.
-Parts replaced:
MAP, IAC, TPS, engine coolant sensor, distributor, plug wires, spark plugs (.44 gap), coolant was flushed, new oil, oil filter, ignition coil, thermostat, speedometer cable, reverse switch.

I started driving the truck and it ran very well for about 120 miles. Then I had an issue where I was driving on the highway about 4 weeks ago and all of a sudden the truck stalled on me. I pulled over and tried to start it but no luck. Towed it back to my place and then started trying to find out what the problem was.
-I couldn't hear the pumps kick on so I checked the inertia switch which was bad. I purchased one and while it arrived I jumped it and could hear both pumps turn on. Even with the pumps powering on it would crank but no start. It seemed to me like it was a fuel issue. I ended up checking the fuel relay along with the other ones and they all worked fine. So I decided to get the fuel sending unit, high pressure fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and all new fuel hose. I installed the parts and still would crank but wouldn't start. I then bought a fuel pressure test kit and hooked it up to the shrader valve and I primed the pump and was getting 0 PSI.
-I ended up disconnecting the fuel line from the FPR and fuel sprayed out. I then put the hose into a bottle and turned the switch to get the fuel pumps working to see if fuel came out and it came out with pressure as it should.
-I also tested the injectors with my multimeter and they were all in the 15.5 ohms ballpark. I went through and checked all connections and everything seemed fine.
-I checked the codes and was getting 18, 21, 22, 54.
-I have been looking at forums and everything but still can not get the truck to turn on.

-I have tried taking the MAP off and replacing it with the old one to see if that could be the issue but no luck. I tried the same thing with the TPS, IAC and other parts.

-Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome to FTE

You've been busy on this puppy, so lets think about this some more.
Good idea to scan for & post the trouble code Number clues. Remember we are to begin with the Lowest code Number & put it right, erase that code, operate the vehicle if possible, scan & repeat until all codes remain clear.
Right now I'm not clear When you pulled the posted codes? Were they the reason for all the new parts, or are they what's showing up after the driving stall?
Takes fuel, air & spark to make them run & good even compression, valve & spark timing to make them run well, so what's going missing on the no run after the stall?
We can use our inductive timing light on the coil wire or any plug wire to safely & quickly check for spark.
Use your fuel pressure gauge to test & post the KOEO & KOER fuel psi at the under hood Schrader valve test port.