Picked up a little Xmas gift for my 10 year old. He begged me for months to build an engine; so now we have a little 300.
im trying to make sure if the year, but can’t tell if it’s an 81 or 87. Salvage yard said it was carbed, but the eec4 style distributor suggests otherwise.
Im thinking it shouldn’t make much of a difference once I find an intake and manifolds.
one thought I’ve had in this is that I hate the old ford carbs, but have a lot of experience with the old Rochester 2G. Is there an adapter of some kind to allow mounting a 2G on the factory OR an offenhouser intake?

 

Is this going in the 80 that has the 302 in it now?
If so you will need to get the frame mounts for the 300 as the 302 ones will not work.

As for the motor it really does not matter what year till you get to the 87> as they were EFI and the blocks did not have the hole for the fuel pump but here the bolt holes were there and threaded?
As for the distributer that would not have a vacuum advance can on it so it is a feedback system, 83-86, and should of had a carb to match, they were both controlled by a computer.
Over in the 80-86 truck area we tell people that have the feedback systems and having problems like poor running is to ditch the carb and distributor for non-feedback ones.
Ebay for a HEI drop in. It takes 1 12 volt wire to make it run so easy to wire in.

For the manifolds and your carb adapter?
Factory they say are crap for performance but get the job done of making the truck do its job.
Lets start with the exhaust manifold as that is the easy one. Get a set of EFI Tri Y cast manifolds as they flow better than the log you have now and bolt in to any 300 head.
Or you can run a header but I find they tend to leak after a while.

Intake manifold & carb, as said the factory gets the job done but also kills performance.
Look for an after market Offy intake, sit down on the prices, and then see what you can find for a carb adapter.
I dont know of anyone that has asked for a Rockchester to Holley v4 bolt pattern adapter but there may be one out there who knows?
Most run either a Holley 390 CFM v4 carb and I know some have run an adapter to run a Motorcraft v2 carb off a 302 on the Offy intake.
Holley also makes a v2 carb with the same bolt pattern as the Motorcraft in a 350 & 500 CFM.

Another way to go is the Offy intake manifold and Sniper EFI I know someone that is running a v2 Snipper with adapter to the Offy intake and EFI exhaust manifolds runs really good.
There is also a member that is running the v4 Snipper on a Offy on here too.

Me I run EFI exhaust manifolds with the factory log intake manifold and carb, was looking for MPG and did not have money for anything else.
I also run a 1994 Y pipe on back full system, no cat and a welded Thrush muffler so I can get all replacements at parts stores.
So you can see there are many different ways to go with the manifolds and fuel systems.
You may want to start off with factory stuff for a new driver and work up to the good stuff but if you need to get something then I can see going for the good stuff.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

thanks Dave,
nah, this one’s just to build. And we’re in no hurry cause it doesn’t have a destination. After a little exploratory tear down today I found that it’s froze up tighter than Siberian virgin. It’s got rust and mud in the valve train and half the bolts broke off, so this will be quite the expedition. But I’ll definitely move to the HEI style distributor and two piece exhaust. I’m undecided on the intake. That may just depend on what I can find on eBay or marketplace.

 

When I seen the rust on the head around the ports I was thinking this motor sat outside for a bit and hope it's not hurt.
I guess you answered that question sorry to hear that

If the motor has not been rebuilt before and the rust not too bad in the piston areas it can be board out.
Same goes for the crank if it is rusty that it can be cleaned up.

It is nice when you have time to look for parts and to rebuild the motor.
Dont over look a full truck for parts / to drop the motor into as it may end up cheaper going that route.
Just noted the 87> 300 trucks were EFI so you have a computer to deal with. Same goes for I think it is 84> v8 trucks were EFI.
Now you can remove the EFI & computer and a little rewiring and run a carb. I got a 81 F100 300 carb so no computer ever.

When I rebuild my truck, cab off frame rebuild over 4 years, I was lucky to find a parts truck (less motor / doors / tailgate and rolled over) at the same time that I used a LOT of parts from to make 1 nice truck.
Anything I was not going to use I gave away but you could sell the parts once the truck is on the road.
Good luck on the build
Dave ----

 

we got the head off and bottom end opened up yesterday. The pan had the remnants of the sludgy, watery oil in it, but not much: maybe 2 quarts
So we got that out there and checked out the crank, bearings and cam. So far, really not bad. This engine obviously had some mileage on it but was kept in good oil while it was running. The head on the other hand … well check the photos

 

The bearing pictures is that mains or rods too?
I am not up on Ford part numbers but at least they are Ford bearings and I dont think under size.
What does the crank look like?

That head looks like it may need valves, do they move in the guides?
A shop should be able to get that cleaned up for you as part of the needed work.

What do the cly. walls look like? They really rusty? Pistons come out easily?
Dave ----

 

Surprisingly yes! The valves are not seized and will move when tapped with a rubber mallet, but with 75% of the stem being rusted away it’ll definitely need new valves and probably seats.

 

update. 50/50 on cylinders

 

WOW is all I can say

I hope you did not pay a lot for that motor as the block looks to be trashed.
Even if it will clean up at 60 thou and that is a MAYBE, you have to worry about block shift and the walls getting too thin and a lot of time going 60 over the motor tend to run hot.
Maybe it could be sleeved, but I hear that can run a few bucks that could be used on a different motor.
That is why I sad maybe look for a complete truck and if it has a 300 in it you it for the rebuild.
Just my .02
Dave ----

 

we picked it up for $150. So not a huge investment at this point. I plan to run it up to the local machine shop and get some input on cost-effective options. But if it’s gonna be more than a couple hundred bucks I’ll opt for another block and send this one to the recycling bin.

 

Well if anything you do have some parts on the motor that I would hold on to.
Everything on the front, fan is bent but can be replaced, but you have the AC brackets with V belts, compressor is missing the manifolds
As they can be hard to come by even if you dont use them. Does it have a power steering pump and if so what type, picture?
The stat housings like to break because the stat slips and you tighten it and SNAP!
Looks like a high output ALT if it is any good.
Flex plate / flywheel, bolts and the motor plate. Depending on flex or flywheel that plate is made for that starter as there are starters for manual & auto trams to fit the type plates.
Just to name some parts.
Dave ----

 

Well I think you spoke it into existence… we found a crack in the cylinder wall at the machine shop. So that block is officially a boat anchor. While we were there we did find a D series head that had been rebuilt 20 years ago but never installed. New valves, seats, springs, and deck. We snagged it for $300, so the head work is DONE. I’ve got eyes on an 84 truck with a 300 & an EFI 300 out of an 89. Either could lend themselves to the build and give us plenty of parts for use or resale.

 

Sorry to hear about the block but good to find it now then later after some work was done to it.
I would say $300 for a ready to go head, take it you will need to use the rockers off the old head?
If they dont work out and need to be replaced you may want to look into the Chevy rockers that will add a little more lift.
I have read that they are a bolt on so might spend money on something that will help a little on power.

If that truck / motor have EFI exhaust manifolds keep them as they help on power too.
Dave ----

 

Comp and crane both make stamped rollers with a higher ratio that are enticing. There’s another company called Yella something that makes an aluminum roller; but they’re awful spendy.

 

For street I and because I am cheap I would just get stamped rockers no need for the roller part but again I am cheap

Also again if you need to replace the ones off that $150 motor for that $300 head as you have to replace them anyway.
Unless you got some change in your pocket and want to than go for it.

When I was rebuilding my truck if I could not use any of the parts from either truck I "up graded" if I could.
The exhaust manifold on my motor was not for a pickup as the pickup head pipe did not fit so had to be replace the manifold.
Had a buddy that had EFI exhaust manifolds and I a radiator that would not fit my truck so a deal was made.
Because I had to replace the head pipe anyway I just went with the factory Y pipe to match the EFI manifolds.
Dave ----