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I had the AC clutch cycling switch replaced on my truck. Truck ran fine after the switch was replaced. Now 3 days later I have a no crank problem.
Figured a wire was tampered with while gaining access to the AC switch on accumulator. I done some checking and made sure all the wires were good and tight and clean of corrosion which they were.
The small tan/red wire on the solenoid is showing some current while key is in off position. A in diagram
It looks as the wires are not back like from Factory.
B had a large red wire that ran across the cowl and I am guessing to the UHJB
C had a wire going to the alternator.
Now they are both under C. Would that cause my problem?
Is there suppose to be 12V on the fancy dual lug lead coming from the battery D in diagram.
Done a test this evening and all I am getting is a single click at the starter relay solenoid on firewall. Even jumped across the 2 big terminals and nothing. No crank no spark from jumping them out. I am guessing a bad or weak battery may be my trouble or bad cable.
Hold your foot firmly on the brake pedal, then with your left hand, reach over and turn the key to the start position. Now, while holding the key in the start position, use your right hand to shift through the gears to see if the starter jumps. If it does, you have an issue with the DTR sensor down on the transmission, or at the very least, a shifter cable adjustment issue.
Hold your foot firmly on the brake pedal, then with your left hand, reach over and turn the key to the start position. Now, while holding the key in the start position, use your right hand to shift through the gears to see if the starter jumps. If it does, you have an issue with the DTR sensor down on the transmission, or at the very least, a shifter cable adjustment issue.
alloro,
I went thru all the motions above and nothing happened. I do know that when in P or N I hear the starter relay on WF click,when in gear's it will not click.
When doing some checking today I noticed every time I go to start position with key I loose the interior lights,radio clock display.
I have only 1 good hand for testing so will have to wait for some to help to do any more testing. I know when I put key in start position I get signal to starter relay on FW and the relay clicks. The relay however does not energize the other terminal (3/8) that I am guessing sends the control voltage down to the solenoid on the starter, the small red wire in the battery harness.
Also just for sake of it I jumped across both 3/8 terminals and nothing happens. No starter trying to engage no spark. Battery reads 12.4 volts between post sitting and when trying to crank.
I am hoping my son can come out tomorrow and climb under truck with the DMM and a jumper wire. Will check voltage down to starter from battery ,and then just jumper from the B terminal on starter solenoid to
the S terminal see if it tries to crank.
If it is the starter motor, try holding the key in the start position while your son taps the starter motor with a hammer. If the motor is sitting on a dead spot, sometimes doing this will give it a kick. If it starts, at least you can move it or drive it to a shop.
Solenoid on starter was bad. Bench tested and the solenoid would not engage the starter motor bendix. Jumped the motor itself and it would ramp up and spin just fine.Such a shame you cannot replace the solenoid on these like you could in the old days on GM. I have replaced many GM solenoid studs and contact washer for people tight on cash.
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