Good afternoon everyone. I am replacing the valve cover gasket on my 2006 Escape Hybrid due to oil leaking into the spark plug wells. Tons of oil in there. I'm also getting some misfires on cylinders 2 and 3, I assume becasue of the volume of oil in the spark plug wells. I'll replace the spark plugs as well (will get Motorcraft).

Do I need to replace the coil packs because the boots are oil soaked, or can I just replace the boots? Auto Zone sells the boots and connector spring for $17 (set of 4) or the Duralast coil packs (set of 4) for $192. I don't know if the Duralast boots will fit the OEM coil packs or the coil packs are also shot becasue of oil on the boots.

We've had her since 2016 and have never changed the coil packs or spark plugs. Hoping she will last another year or two, so I don't want to spend more than needed to keep her reliable.

Thanks for your advice.

Dave
2006 Ford Escape
2.3L 4 cyl. DOHC 16V Hybrid
185K miles

 

Your Coil packs should be fine, just replace plugs/boots and springs. clean wells out with carb cleaner.

 

Thank you techrep. I ended up just buying the entire coil packs, and unfortunately installed them before seeing your post. I saw enough posts and websites to convince me to change them. Your post would have been enough to at least try the boots only first. My fault for not looking when I got back from Auto Zone.

Anyway, I installed the new valve cover gasket, spark plugs, and coils. Cleaned everything really well. Put it all pack together.
For anyone reading this, here are the torques specs I found: spark plugs to 12 ft/lbs, valve cover gasket to 80 in/lbs.

I started it up and everything looked and sounded good, no lights on the dash, no oil leaks. I wanted to let it warm up before I hooked up FORScan to check for codes. I kept checking for oil leaks and everything looked good. Then after about 20-25 minutes, the RPM suddenly increased by about 500 or so. I went in to grab my laptop and when I came out there was a loud tapping noise. My first thought was it sounded like the piston was hitting something, a valve, the spark plug, something. But it hadn't being doing that for 20-25 minutes, so that didn't make sense.

After running FORScan, I got a P1299 DTC for the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. I pulled it and noticed that the connector separated somewhat. I assume I damaged it removing the valve cover. Here's a pic:

Cyl. Head Temp. Sensor

Cyl. Head Temp. Sensor separated (this is how it came out)

When I removed the sensor, I noticed that even though the pigtail connector tab was depressed, the sensor's electrical connector lifted up when I pulled the pigtail connector off. It hadn't been off in years, if ever, and was stuck to the sensor pretty good. My guess is I broke it when I removed it to replace the valve cover and didn't notice.

I got a new cylinder head temp sensor from Ford, installed it (and the new pigtail). Now things are even worse. The tapping noise has gotten louder. I ran the FORScan KOEO PCM self-test and it passed with no codes. Then I ran the KOER PCM self-test, and the engine went crazy. Part of the test is to depress the brake pedal. When I did that the RPM shot up, then dropped rapidly, the engine sounded like it was going to die, but it kept limping on. It would speed up then almost die, then speed up and almost die again. When the test was at 69% it then jumped to completed and said it passed just as the engine died. Now it won't run for more than 10 seconds or so. And it's still making some very unhealthy sounds. It has the MIL and the check oil lights on. Below are the DTCs it currently shows. At the bottom is a video of it running.

I think I may have killed it running it with a failed cylinder head temp sensor. My guess is the PCM didn't know the engine was overheating (not sure what would have caused the overheating unless the cylinder head temp sensor tells coolant to flow or something), and maybe something got warped/bent due to the heat. I will probably drain the oil and pull the oil pan to see if there is any metal in there. Looking for advice on how to proceed.

===PCM DTC P0106-FF===
Code: P0106 - MAP circuit range/performance problem
Module: Powertrain Control Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
MAP circuit range/performance problem
Improper connection
This DTC may be caused by :
Open Circuit
Signal shorted to ground or signal return.
MAP sensor vacuum hose not connected or blocked
Faulty MAP sensor
MAP-Open Or Short
Refer to the vehicle Workshop Manual for further system details
Open Vref.
Low VREF
Faulty or damaged PCM.
===END PCM DTC P0106-FF===

===PCM DTC P0340-FF===
Code: P0340 - CMP sensor circuit fault
Module: Powertrain Control Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
CMP circuit fault.
This DTC may be caused by :
CMP sensor circuit fault
Open circuit in wiring or component
Poor connections
Sensor Previously disconnected.
For additional information refer to:
Faulty or damaged PCM.
===END PCM DTC P0340-FF===

===PCM DTC P1000-FF===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
Module: Powertrain Control Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.
===END PCM DTC P1000-FF===

===OBDII DTC P0340-C===
Code: P0340 - CMP sensor circuit malfunction
Status (-43):
- Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed
Module: On Board Diagnostic II
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
CMP sensor circuit malfunction
This DTC may be caused by :
P1131_2$C
Short Circuit
Sensor
Sensor Previously disconnected.
Refer to the vehicle Workshop Manual for further system details
--- Possible Causes --------
On-Demand DTC Entry Criteria; No buttons pressed, buttons inactive
- circuits OPEN.
Circuit Failure; This DTC shall be logged if any buttons are pressed and the Message Center Switch
- Feed-1 Circuit is shorted-to-ground.
Continuous DTC Circuit Failure; This DTC shall be logged if the Message Center Switch
- Feed-1 is Out-of-Range and the Message Center Switch
- Feed-1 Circuit is shorted-to-ground.
-Suspect Message Center Switch Message Center Module

===END OBDII DTC P0340-C===

===GEM DTC B1304-20===
Code: B1304 - Accessory delay relay circuit failure
Status (-20):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Accessory delay relay circuit failure
===END GEM DTC B1304-20===

===GEM DTC B1342-60===
Code: B1342 - MODULE DEFECTIVE
Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
ECU internal fault
===END GEM DTC B1342-60===

===GEM DTC B106E-20===
Code: B106E - Solid State Driver Disabled Due To Short Circuit
Status (-20):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Generic Electronic Module
===END GEM DTC B106E-20===

Video of if barely running.

 

Check your vacuum lines to the intake. A power brake booster that affects idle rpm can indicate a failing booster, or more likely a damaged vacuum line. That could also result in higher idle rpm.
Oil soaked COP boots likely cannot be cleaned enough to avoid future misfire. If the COPs are functional, replacing the boots would be an adequate repair in most cases.

You may have wiggled the CMP(cam position) sensor when fiddling with the cam cover. That is used to fiddlei with timing ased on a cylinder at TDC compression stroke vs exhaust stroke. Your timing may get munged and cause poor running, or a no-start. A crank sensor failure likely will cause no-start all by itself, FWIW.
If you have a vacuum leak, the MAP will be unhappy... and your idle will turn poor. A totally failing MAP on a MAP-only(no MAF) really messes up the engine idle, and can cause a start-stall immediately.
Don't give up hope, as the temp sensor is a common item to decay on the 4-cylinder engines. Makuloco did a video on YT about their failure and symptoms. I think the fan operation may be compromised... and likely the fuel mixture as the ECM tries to prevent engine meltdown.(or it can cause poor running due to over-fueling, perhaps)
tom

 

tomw, I looked over the engine and don't see any lines disconnected or showing damage. When I did the work, I replaced the coil packs, boots, and spark plugs. I don't think I wiggled the CMP when I was in there because it ran great for 15-20 minutes after the work was done. Then everything went to pot (as they say). I ran FORScan to get some live data, not sure what data I need though, and I noticed CMP and CKP are not sync'd. Does that indicate timing is off? If I did wiggle the CMP, could it take a bit of time to show up?

Is there other data I should capture to help troubleshoot?

Here are the current codes I am getting. {I think all the battery stuff is because it has been sitting too long. If I can get it started and allow it to run for a while I am sure everything will charge like it should.}

===PCM DTC P0352-FF: - Ignition Coil B primary circuit malfunction (I swapped coils 1 and 2, with no change in codes. Not sure what to do to troubleshoot this further.)
===PCM DTC P1000-FF: - OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete (not worried about this one)
===PCM DTC P1A10-FF: - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Disabled
===BCM DTC P0A7D-60: - Hybrid Battery Pack State of Charge Low
===BCM DTC P0A1F-60: - Battery Energy Control Module
===GEM DTC B1304-20: - Accessory delay relay circuit failure
===GEM DTC B1342-60: - MODULE DEFECTIVE
===GEM DTC B106E-20: - Solid State Driver Disabled Due To Short Circuit
I am no longer seeing PCM DTC P0106-FF: - MAP circuit range/performance problem or PCM DTC P0340-FF: - CMP sensor circuit fault,

I think I need to trouble shoot the P0352 and the no sync between CMP and CKP. Help!

Dave

 

If you have COPs, I do not think you have any "B" coil. May want to check for another meaning.
readiness means it has not run long enough since being cleared to complete all tests.
hybrid system could be all based on a low battery state of charge. I do not know much about them at all.
accessory delay
module defective
solid state driver disabled... all 3 mean nothing w/o knowing what they involve.
Is it starting and running? Do you have 12V on the COP terminals, should be on both until grounded/ungrounded by the computer to fire.
I see nothing on the CKP or CMP. Do the COPs fire the plugs?
I have lost perspective as to what is happening
tom

 

I believe "B" coil for the hybrid means cylinder #2.



Yes, it will run, but only for 2-3 seconds. it's very rough and sounds underpowered.
Yes, there are 12V to all 4 COPs. I also connected an ignition spark tester to cyl 2, and it flashes orange while running.

I feel the same way. I don't know what it's doing. I don't know if I am chasing down symptoms or the cause. I feel like there is actual engine damage at this point, but the DTCs aren't pointing to anything. I think I am week away from throwing in the towel and getting a new vehicle. By new, I mean a 5–7 year-old used vehicle.

Dave

 

Closing this threat out.
Ok, so I found out why it won't run. The piston in cylinder 3 has a hole in it. I wanted to swap the spark plugs around to see if the issue would follow. The spark plug in cyl 3 would not come out. I knew immediately something was wrong. Once I got it out, the electrode end was mangled and gone. Here is a picture of the piston.

I'll donate it to charity or to the local high school automotive shop.

Only left is to see if I can figure out what happened. I replaced the spark plugs, compared them to the old ones and everything looked the same. It ran great for 20 minutes and then it went down hill from there.

Any ideas?

Thanks for the info and advice. Now on to fixing my Excursion.

 

wondering what plug you installed?

 

Got the plugs from the local Ford dealer, they matched the ones that came out. I'd have to find the receipt to get the actual number of them. Other three cylinders were fine.

 

maybe something got dropped in the well prior to plug installation. either way not good !