Ok on the struggle bus again....

Right rear apart... wheel cylinder replaced.
I am having 2 problems... #1 see pic

The nut that goes on the back of stud in middle of pic seems to have stripped threads, won't tighten anymore, or back off- just spins. Ideas on how to get it off? and can I just get the stud and nut? or do I have to order the whole park brake lever kit?

#2

These are the longer shoes and go to the rear....
Neither new one is set up like the old one.
Do I need to just flip the pin on the right one?
Or does the double thick end on the left point out?
Double thick pointed "in" on the one I took off.
any help would be great. Thanks.

 

I am thinking this is the correct set up for the longer shoe.... double thick top end goes in toward backing plate, cable guide and pin sticks out at bottom away from backing plate
****( THIS IS NOT THE WAY THEY GO, VERIFIED BY LOOKING AT HOW OTHER SETS OF 358 SHOES COME FROM THE FACTORY)***
THE DOUBLE THICK TOP PART FACES OUT,AS DOES CABLE GUIDE AND BOTTOM RIVET POST

 

Longer shoe in the back towards tailgate. You may have misrepaired stuff there, my red dually did...two primary on one side.

There are pics around of correct installation of springs. Buy drum tools from Chyna Freight or the like, life easy with them. Look up instructions how to use and you will be floored how fast they assemble.

Double check drum thickness, turn as needed. Rather have good OE drums than the junk available today.

 

I bought wheel cyl. As I knew it was leaking 12x3 powerstop shoes, motorcraft drums, and carlson hardware kit... I have brake tools, i just need to know shoe fitment... thick double top part in towards backing plate or out? Would not surprise me if misrepair happened on this truck. I have only had it like 6weeks?
my Hayes manual has no pics showing shoes direction...
I am heading to Advance now to see about park brake lever pivot stud and nut.

 

I bought wheel cyl. As I knew it was leaking 12x3 powerstop shoes, motorcraft drums, and carlson hardware kit... I have brake tools, i just need to know shoe fitment... thick double top part in towards backing plate or out? Would not surprise me if misrepair happened on this truck. I have only had it like 6weeks?
my Hayes manual has no pics showing shoes direction...
I am heading to Advance now to see about park brake lever pivot stud and nut.

 

Here are a few pics from my stuff. DRW 10.25 and 8.8. Hope they help!

 

Bendix/Wagner
The Bendix/Wagner self-energizing brake has a single anchor pin located above the wheel cylinder. The primary shoe is identified by its length and position on the shoe. The lining segment is shorter than the lining segment on the secondary shoe and is positioned toward the adjuster or heals of the shoe. When the brake is applied, the master cylinder applies hydraulic pressure to both wheel cylinder pistons.

The primary and secondary shoes engage the friction surface of the drum. The wrapping motion of the primary shoe transfers pressure through the adjusting screw and drives the secondary shoe against the anchor pin and friction surface of the drum.

The secondary wheel cylinder piston is held in its rest position as the secondary shoe is driven against the anchor pin.

The adjuster mechanism is attached to the secondary shoe. It is a mechanical device that is made up of the three components.

First, an adjusting screw that is a threaded device like a nut and bolt. The head of the bolt is a notched wheel with a cylindrical pin. A washer and slotted cap fits over the pin and engages web section of the secondary shoe. The nut is also a slotted cap that threads onto the bolt and engages the primary shoe.

Second, a lever moves on a pivot to engage and turn the notched wheel.

Third, a cable or linkage is attached to the lever and the anchor pin to move the lever at its pivot point. There are springs and retainers to hold the mechanism in place.

The adjustment takes place when the vehicle is in reverse and the brakes are applied or when the parking brake is engaged. The cable or link attached to the anchor pin pulls the lever mechanism based on the movement of the secondary shoe.

When the brakes are applied, the lever cannot move the adjuster screw because the brake pressure is being used to apply the shoes. The adjuster lever mechanism must store the adjustment and turn the notched wheel when the brake is released.

 

I just looked at a set of 12x3 shoes at Autozone and they are set up with the thick top part of shoe facing out, and cable guide and rivet facing that way too... so I will do that...

Looks like I need to order this for the stripped park brake pivot stud and nut

 

OUCH! let go my arm....
I ordered the QK7004 12" Bendix parking brake lever pivot small parts kit. (x2) (See pic in post #8 above ^^^^^^)
$30.98 EACH SIDE plus $14 shipping AND ONLY PLACE THAT I COULD FIND THAT OFFERED IT WAS Torqueking 4x4 ( hopefully this helps somebody else)
They state on their website that these parts are ONE USE parts by design. ( I can tell you, I took mine apart and it stripped out putting it back together.)
Typically, you would only take it apart, to get it out of the way, to replace the wheel cylinder, If you don't need wheel cyl., I would say don't touch it.
On the bright side, all the lever and parts are now bench buffer wire wheel clean now. (nice and shiny)
Now I wait for parts to arrive, and try and remember how it all goes back together... I don't think I have done Drum Brakes in like 25 years...

 

Whomever invented the little Red springs needs to be hunted down and punished! LOL

Today in the morning I drilled out the old stuck pivot bolt. Then, I received the park brake pivot bolt kit.
It is not so simple as the collar and bolt are knurled like a really tight slip yoke in a driveshaft. I replaced it and put the nut on, but it may be WAY too tight now... we shall see.
I spent the afternoon fighting all the springs and cutting my hands when they slipped...



Everything is back together and adjusted on the passenger side. I will do the driver side in the next day or 2, and then I have to bleed everything again.

 

Rear brakes all back together... only thing I think I did wrong was the small cable on passenger side I may have the bend at the park lever pivot installed upside down... ( think small u , when it should be facing down like a small n)but don't really want to mess with it as the pivot pins gave me such trouble and are supposed to be 1-time use... not really wanting to order another $40 pin kit....
like mentioned earlier post, the park pivot seems super tight on both sides, and I don't seem to have a parking break right now. Cables seem to be free and p- brake pedal goes down and releases.
I am waiting for Mrs to be free so I can bleed the new wheel cyl. As they didn't gravity fill on there own at all, not a drop comes out. Hopefully, after bleeding system things work a little better as everything firms up and settles in.

should there be a "whooshing " air noise by the Brake pedal when I push on it? No brake or ABS lights are on.

Thanks

 

noisr from a booster is normal as you are using the booster to make your brake pedal easy to press

Gravity feed by leaving them open for a LONG time. But if you have new lines and hoses,m or you dont, you may have something in your lines. remove the lines at the RABS and blow out with air. is your RABS good condition?

 

All worked ( except needed new calipers and rears redone with the wheel cyls... I had actually replaced all the brake fluid prior to any repairs and it bled out fine... and new calipers bled out fine. Same with RABS....just gonna wait til Mrs. is around and have her pump the pedal for me.

 

Finally synced up with Mrs. And everything is bled.

Pedal feels soft and I seem to have no parking brake...
Took to local High school lot and did a bunch of stop and go to burnish in the brakes.
When leaving I got some speed up, then hit the brakes... fronts locked up and tires squealed, but truck pulled hard left... I tried it again a few miles later and that seemed to work itself out.
How do I check if the booster is working right or is bad or lost its vacuum? No Brake or ABS lights are on...

 

soft pedal and pulling to one side tells me youre not getting consistent equal pressure to the rear circuit most likely still. You replace the hoses in the system? the one from the line to the axle? Then did you flush the hard lines to the wheel ends? And did you set the rear drums to factory spec for drag/adjustment then set the cables equally, THEN set the parking brake per the factory spec in order to adjust the mechanism