Wheel bearing noise after replacement
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
Wheel bearing noise after replacement
I have an 88 f150 RWD. I replaced the front wheel bearings, with TIMKEN bearings and races. New seals as well. But now below 30 they squeal, above 45-50 they hum. My instructor did the preload on the passenger side that sides fine. The drivers side a classmate did the preload with my instructors supervision and me and that’s the side that has the noises. What should I do to fix it?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
Sorry, I wrote they both squeal and hum. It’s just the drivers side from what I can tell. With that being the case, do I still need to do both sides or just the drivers side?
Also there’s 2 different size dust caps on the part store websites. Is there something that I can look at on my truck with a factory option, to see the difference or is it just random sizes on random trucks?
Also there’s 2 different size dust caps on the part store websites. Is there something that I can look at on my truck with a factory option, to see the difference or is it just random sizes on random trucks?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,541
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
Last set I did needed some specific torque procedure for fresh bearings, probably to initially load them. It was in the FSM, I do recall some high torque setting (125ftlbs?), then loosen. Then back to 20ftlbs and line up the castle nut. NOT exactly that data, but in that area. Worth checking the OE procedure.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
Backing plate and rotor are not contacting. Torqued bearing nut to 25 lb ft and backed off 1/8 turn just like the prodemand website said. No more humming. But there’s still a squeal, thinking pads? I’ll drive it again tomorrow to see if the squeak stops with brakes applied. No discoloration either.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 85
Likes: 9
From: Wisconsin
Backing plate and rotor are not contacting. Torqued bearing nut to 25 lb ft and backed off 1/8 turn just like the prodemand website said. No more humming. But there’s still a squeal, thinking pads? I’ll drive it again tomorrow to see if the squeak stops with brakes applied. No discoloration either.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
No metal, that I could tell. The grease is grey though. I didn’t replace seal this time. I put grease on the seal. Inner bearing looked good so I didn’t pull it out cause I didn’t have a new seal on hand.
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 85
Likes: 9
From: Wisconsin
well the inner bearing could be your problem. There’s no real way to prove that bearing is actually good unless you pull the seal wash out the bearing and inspect . Then to get all the old grease out of that bearing. Don’t go through all that work just not to remove the inner bearing cuz of a cheap seal that should be replaced anyways. Like doing half the job.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 114
Seal and bearing are brand new and new grease is why I didn’t pull it.
I’ll diagnose the sound more, see if it stops when brakes are applied. If it does I’ll leave the bearings alone, if it doesn’t I’ll go get a new seal and repack inner bearing.
I replaced them for my auto class and drove 45 minutes home (not fwy driving) drove it maybe 1 mile for diag since.
I’ll diagnose the sound more, see if it stops when brakes are applied. If it does I’ll leave the bearings alone, if it doesn’t I’ll go get a new seal and repack inner bearing.
I replaced them for my auto class and drove 45 minutes home (not fwy driving) drove it maybe 1 mile for diag since.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,835
Likes: 363
From: Candy Mountain
I had a high pitched noise when braking. Was still present after new pads and machining the rotor. New bearings took care of it. Came back a few years later. Got back into it and found the inner bearing was jacked up again. Found the race was loose. Hub was worn out. That was the core problem.
