Which Intercooler Piping Kit Should I Choose?
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7th Gear
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
Which Intercooler Piping Kit Should I Choose?
I have a 2016 6.7L with no issues with the stock intercooler pipes but I want to upgrade to an aftermarket system due to the stock's reputation. I've looked around and I'm trying to decide between Pusher or S&B. I've seen other ones but I want to stick to mostly solid pipes. Any opinions on those, or any other brands?
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,172
From: Western NY
I have a 2016 6.7L with no issues with the stock intercooler pipes but I want to upgrade to an aftermarket system due to the stock's reputation. I've looked around and I'm trying to decide between Pusher or S&B. I've seen other ones but I want to stick to mostly solid pipes. Any opinions on those, or any other brands?
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 77
Likes: 28
Like Fritz said, it's the CAC cold pipe that breaks. Years back, I replaced my cold pipe with a Rudy's pipe. At one point, I'd like to do a Pusher cold pipe, which has a bung plate on it for say methanol injectors, if I ever move forward with a methanol injection kit. As to the hot side, I personally like S&B's hot pipe that connects like the OEM hot pipe at the turbo and has only one silicone coupler at the intercooler.
I want to do the Pusher cold air pipe just for peace of mind. I don't like to sit on the side of the road any longer than I have to.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,172
From: Western NY
I do have the intercooler on the to do list as an item to go aftermarket with, so maybe the two piece hot pipe would work better.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,266
Likes: 2,187
my vote would be to always go for what is being referred to as a 2 piece design. the "2 piece design" has greater flexibility and wont squeeze once side of the oring...when orings are squeezed due to non flexibility it results in diesel exhuast smell in the cab...if you have a stock CCV route. does not apply if you have an open air system....you would still have a boost leak...you just wont smell it.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 372
Likes: 199
From: NE Oklahoma
I put a Mishimoto on my truck several years ago and don't regret it at all. It's twice the price as the stock OEM offering but also has a lifetime warranty and all the clamps fit correctly unlike some of the cheaper kits.
https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-6-7l-...ot-kit-11.html
https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-6-7l-...ot-kit-11.html
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FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,172
From: Western NY
my vote would be to always go for what is being referred to as a 2 piece design. the "2 piece design" has greater flexibility and wont squeeze once side of the oring...when orings are squeezed due to non flexibility it results in diesel exhuast smell in the cab...if you have a stock CCV route. does not apply if you have an open air system....you would still have a boost leak...you just wont smell it.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,266
Likes: 2,187
I've had an exhaust smell in the cab of the truck and thought maybe it was that small line back by the down the down pipe which they checked when the dealer did the EGR core... it wasn't... I'm going to check that today, my OEM hot pipe, since it's been removed/installed a few times when I installed the DPK kit... thanks Fritz!
pull off the hose at the snap ring and check 6:00 for signs of an oil trail …the outside of the hose at 6:00 might have oil on it. Also…I got rid of all my worm gear clamps on everything intake and switch to t-bolt clamps and tightened everything until all I could smell while in the engine bay was my after shave.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,172
From: Western NY
pull off the hose at the snap ring and check 6:00 for signs of an oil trail …the outside of the hose at 6:00 might have oil on it. Also…I got rid of all my worm gear clamps on everything intake and switch to t-bolt clamps and tightened everything until all I could smell while in the engine bay was my after shave.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,880
Likes: 9,172
From: Western NY
pull off the hose at the snap ring and check 6:00 for signs of an oil trail …the outside of the hose at 6:00 might have oil on it. Also…I got rid of all my worm gear clamps on everything intake and switch to t-bolt clamps and tightened everything until all I could smell while in the engine bay was my after shave.
This is a pic from my S&S DPK install thread... The turbo, the rubber coupler from lower part of the intake and the factory hot pipe is all covered in an oily mess... yep, thinking it's a boost leak there at hot pipe/turbo connection... I'll take pics later. Funny though she still gets up to 24 lbs of boost though and no CEL.
Thanks for the heads up Fritz!
