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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1980 inline 6 stalls

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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 01:24 PM
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1980 inline 6 stalls

So the truck starts right up and runs great, once it’s warm if I let it sit on idle it dies. Give it some time to cool down and it will start back up. I redid the carb, electric choke, new fuel line. Lost on potential issue.
Thanks Anyone and Everyone for suggestions
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 01:35 PM
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It is probably that big box called the ignition control module going temporarily dead. You could check and see if you are losing ignition during that time when it quits and won't start.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 88n94
It is probably that big box called the ignition control module going temporarily dead. You could check and see if you are losing ignition during that time when it quits and won't start.
I am assuming it’s the ignition coil correct?? And I am not trying to sound condescending but my first truck that I actually work on. I’ve learned a lot but need a lot more.
thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 02:30 PM
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No not the coil, although that could be suspect also. The ignition module is that big silver box, I think located on the fender well.

The first thing to do would be make sure spark is the thing you are losing when it quits and won't start. The real bummer here is that you can't test these intermittent(run and quit and then come back alive) ignition components unless you catch them in an engine won't start condition. What I'm saying is you can't remove them and have them tested at a parts store unless caught in a dead state.

The ignition module would be most suspect here, with the coil a distant 2nd.

The regular members of this vintage on this site, I am sure will be along. First though you need to make sure it is spark that you are losing when it won't start.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 88n94
No not the coil, although that could be suspect also. The ignition module is that big silver box, I think located on the fender well.

The first thing to do would be make sure spark is the thing you are losing when it quits and won't start. The real bummer here is that you can't test these intermittent(run and quit and then come back alive) ignition components unless you catch them in an engine won't start condition. What I'm saying is you can't remove them and have them tested at a parts store unless caught in a dead state.

The ignition module would be most suspect here, with the coil a distant 2nd.

The regular members of this vintage on this site, I am sure will be along. First though you need to make sure it is spark that you are losing when it won't start.
To try and add more info, while I was doing rookie things, I would check the carb and when spraying carb cleaner in it it fires up but for a second and then dies. So does that help or hurt the theory of the ignition?

 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ecarlos
To try and add more info, while I was doing rookie things, I would check the carb and when spraying carb cleaner in it it fires up but for a second and then dies. So does that help or hurt the theory of the ignition?
It sounds like you are NOT losing ignition. Does the truck still start and run until it gets warm and dies?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 03:14 PM
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So I can start it in the morning drive around town, awesome 30-40-60 minutes then hit the drive thru for some food or coffee it will stall in the drive thru. I left it the other day went to my second half shift, came back 3 hours later started back up. So that’s where I’m at.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 03:43 PM
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It sounds like quite a mystery. Maybe a plugging fuel filter. I hope someone else has an idea.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 04:28 PM
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Carb cleaner is not the best test fluid. But it could indicate a fuel delivery issue. Starting fluid would be better and if you start and run for several seconds on a good second or two of spray fuel delivery could be the issue. I would also be sure the choke is operating properly as that can be a hot start issue. Check and replace all fuel filters. Check that fuel pump is operating. Check fuel flow and pressure.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 04:31 PM
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Have you ever adjusted the carb? It has idled speed adjustments, and idle mixture adjustment screws. Only adjust it after it warms up. If you have a carb adjustment problem, after it stalls it should start back up if you push the gas pedal to the floor a couple of times before you start it. It should start, run ok for a short period, and then run rough and stall. If this is what it does, I would try and adjust the carb adjustments.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 04:34 PM
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88n94 is hitting on things it could be, spark or fuel, you just need to do a little more testing when this happens to know what the cause is so we can fix it.

Spraying carb cleaner (better yet starting fluid if you have it) you said it kind of ran so that tells me it may not be spark but I would like a little more testing.
When it stalls dose it start running ruff and black smoke out the tail pipe or just kind of gets slower and slower and stops?
Try pulling the fuel cap off and driving it and see if it will do the same thing.
BTW how much gas do you have in the tank when this happens?

If you can, drive it around and get back to where you can check things like your driveway.
Let it idle till it stops running, Turn the key off and pull the air filter off the carb.
Is the choke open all the way, closed all the way or in between?
If choke is closed open it with a finger and looking down into the carb move the throttle you should see gas squirt.

If it does not squirt we need to see if the fuel pump is pumping or not.
Anywhere after the fuel pump open the line and have it go into container and crank the motor and see if the pump pumps fuel into the container.
If no fuel you will need to find out why. Old rubber hoses can suck air in and not leak gas out.
On my 81 F100 it uses 5/16 rubber fuel hose.
I would replace all the rubber hoses. Should have from tank sender to metal line.
If you have dual tanks you have rubber hose at the tank valve, 2 in and 1 out.
Metal line to the fuel pump.

If you find that spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid and dont get any life of the motor trying to start then you need to look at spark.
As said the ICM, silver box on the inner fender, could be going out.
Sometimes they just stop and never work, easy to figure out, but a lot will heat up stop working till it cools off and start working again till next time.
They are not a lot of money so we tell people to buy one and see if the issue goes away and if not you now have a spare when it dose go bad.
The ONLY THING when you buy is spend the money for top of the line ICM. Cheap ones do not last long.

That should keep you busy for a bit let us know what you find.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 26, 2024 | 04:37 PM
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Oh when was the last time a full tune up was done?
Plugs, cap & rotor, maybe plug wires.
Air filter, gas filter and oil change and filter would not hurt so you know when all was done.
Dave ----
 
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