Been putting off doing this but it I was getting a rough idle at times. I used Motocraft Platinum plugs and a Standard wire and boot kit. I can see why it's so expensive to get it done at a dealership, it's a lot harder than my V10s. I didn't remove the wheel well al the way just far enough to get in there. I got the resisters out buy taking a small screw driver and just working them back and forth and then tapping the coil on my bench and they came out, then I used the screw diver to scape off the electrode down in the coil. Three of the coils had some damage down where the rester sits so a taped it to the spring so it would stand up straight. If I notice any miss I will buy 3 new coils. I moved the bad ones to places that I can get to them without removing all the air intake. I feel the biggest problem is the resistors not the wires or boots, 3 of mine tested open and they all look like hell. All the plugs looked OK for the miles they have on them but where do to be replaced. I also noticed that I'm not getting anymore arcing noise, I think the spark was jumping around the bad resistors making the noise and damaging the coil.

This is the smoothest the truck had run in a long time

Denny

 

Good job!
Saved yourself a bunch of cash.

Griz

 

it amazes me how many people i see in the 6.2 facebook groups that replace coils for no reason instead of doing this. there was a guy quoted 2000 to replace coils, wires and plugs.

 

The plugs were 79.84 and the wires 67.99 for a total of $248.83 plus tax and freight from Rock Auto. Hard to break out the freight because they were a small part of my order. Just a little time and a few good words and numerous extensions and it's done, never really had a good use for the swivel extensions I bought until now.

Denny

 

i was so glad i bought swivel plug sockets. it was annoying with the headers to get to some of those plugs without them.

 

Im real happy the 2017 and up trucks have so much more room to change the plugs. Not that its something you do often but the lack of access on the OHC engines for simpler services always bothered me.

 

I also did mine today after being quoted $2k from dealership. Your plugs looked was better than mine did. I have 63500 miles and a couple of the worst ones are in the pic below.

job wasn’t as bad as I thought, I did pull the passenger side fender well out but for the driver side just bent it out of the way to get the lower back 2 plugs (fender well popped back into shape afterwards)

after seeing this as well as mine I am surprised ford recommends 97.5K mile change interval. I will be doing mine again @120K miles

 

Did you change the boots and wires? Mine isn't a daily driver and spends 3/4 of it's time pulling hard on the road with top tier fuel so I'm sure that helps to keep things burning cleaner. I started #5 from the top but tighten it from the wheel well with two extensions. If you didn't change the boots and resistors I would recommend doing so just to save coils from damage from the spark jumping past a bad resistor damaging the coil, it eats away the area that holds the resistor in place.

Denny

 

Thanks and yeah I did the wires. after seeing the layers of corrosion in the coil packs bought Motorcraft brand coils from Rock Auto and did those too. Mines a daily driver and rarely tows so that’s probably why I had some buildup on the plugs.

as a side note I have a 2012 Hemi Challenger with about 150K miles, never had corrosion in the coil packs and still have all 8 originals so not sure what was causing it here on the F250

thanks!

 

I just did all my coil packs and the top plugs at 87k, I had done all the plug boots with resisters and spark plugs back at 44k because I had bought a canadian rental truck so it had a lot of idle hours on it. I went to replace the top spark plugs and what a debacle did that turn into.. ended up replacing all the coil packs because the resisters were so corroded that you physically couldn't clean them without destroying the coil pack.. I tried on 3 of them. I live in Oregon so there is quite a bit of rain and wet weather, that being said my truck normally sits on the farm unless I'm towing a trailer and occasionally drive it into town when we need a second vehicle.

I did replace my wires last year with motorcraft's when I found one the original wires was not holding to the plug anymore and causing a ton of knock and derating the motor. at the same time as the plug wires I also went and replaced the lower spark plugs and found that 3 of the motor crafts I had installed back at 42k, the stem had disintegrated in the porcelain.

So.. Hopefully we are back to a good working placement now and can just stay that way for the next 50 - 80k

 

Well, I had my '18 F350 6.2L act up today, at about 70,000 miles. First sign was the A/C failed to work, then on my way to play tennis, I noticed a rough idle at my first stop sign, then I observed the check engine light, and sure enough a shudder on acceleration.

Yup, I now have a V-7..... dropped one cylinder. Suspected/hoped for a coil pack failure. Sure enough, after tennis dropped by Napa, they scanned it with the OBD2 reader and I have a P0352 code stored 3 times in the 8 miles I drove. Suggested that it was the "B" cylinder, after looking up the cross ref to the engine chart I was fairly sure it was the second plug back from the front on the passenger side engine bank. Neither Napa nor Ford had a right side ignition coil in stock.

I though about it, and wanted to make sure about which cylinder was not igniting. I remembered I had a Fluke VOM with a inductive spark plug wire pickup that measures RPM. Sure enough, I clamped on to each sequential second spark plug wire running down over the valve covers, and sure enough it was the suspected location as suggested by the error code.

And I read on the internet that the Ford PCM will disable the A/C system from running when you have a misfire.

So, I hopefully will fix the problem when my new coil arrives. I am still amazed my '11 6.2 same vehicle went 185,000 miles with only a plug change. And no long crank fuel pump issues.....

 

Are those Standard Wire brand kits that Rock Auto sells quality stuff or is a guy better off buying Motorcraft?

 

They look to be well made and fit properly but only time will tell. The trucks in the building now next to the trailer with the battery disconnect until September when we head out for the fall and winter.

Denny

 

well, the new coil came today from rock auto. I was chuckling about how easy it was to change, 15 minute job. The old coil looked perfectly fine, but.....


so as I was plugging in wiring to the new coil, I found the actual problem. Some critter had chewed through the primary ignition coil lead so all I really needed to do was solder some new wires. Arrrgghh

Edit 7/6/23 All good, AC went back to working immediately after the misfire was solved by fixing the wiring to the primary side of the #2 spark plug coil. Could not get down in there enough to solder, so I used crimp connectors. Hopefully they will hold up. If not I will have to unweave the wiring harness until I have more wire available to make a proper solder connection in the limited space available to work. I am now shopping for mouse/rat/squirrel cages, and searching for a barn cat to adopt. Cheers


original finding as I was trying to plug it back in, actually, I was I was trying to find it because when I unplugged it just fell down in a cubby on top of the engine

 

Hello, Ford F-350 2014 6.2 gasoline. I have this problem
The car is of the lowest configuration, I changed PCM and BCM but it is not programmed, I installed a 2013 F-250 6.2 gasoline, which is 4-door, but it is also of low configuration, but still it is not programmed and it says that there is a problem with the immobilizer (pats) error. It does not turn the engine and the starter. These computers are removed from one car, they do not match the code of the old computers of my car, but I installed PCM and BCM of both the same car. I also installed a Taurus BCM computer, on which the engine runs for 2 seconds and shuts off, they tell me that I need a BCM computer that corresponds exactly to the code of my car, but they cannot guarantee that the car will start, maybe someone knows what is the matter and what is the problem with me