Just rewired my entire truck, everything works well with the exception of one problem. My problem is that the rear two hazards flash and the flasher clicks inside the cab. This happens even when there is no key, it happens with just the battery hooked up.
all new wiring, new light sockets, new lights, new fuse block and new turn signal switch. All the lights work even the turn signals as well as the hazard flashers when I pull the ****. I am at a loss as to why.

 

There are TWO flashers, both are round with two prongs, but the 4 way flasher is a heavy duty unit, has a louder CLICK

D1FZ-13350-A .. 4 Way Emergency Flasher - Heavy Duty (Motorcraft SF-552-B) / Available from auto parts stores.

The 4 way flasher can also be used with the turn signals, but the turn signal flasher should not be used with the 4 ways, as it's a "weak sister."

The T/S flasher plugs into the back of the instrument cluster at upper left.

The 4 way flasher fits into a U shaped bracket that is retained to the back of the dash (adjacent to instrument cluster) w/a screw.

 

It doesn’t matter which flasher I put in, heavy duty or standard. The rear clicks on and off. Even with no key. If I swap them between each location, it does the same thing.
when I pop the hazard ****, the hazards work as intended, (all four corners flash) when I trip the turn signal, each direction works as expected (front and rear each direction, flash) and the rear two blinking lights stop while a direction is tripped. When I turn off the blinker, the two rear lights go back to blinking. This is without a key even in the ignition.

 

It’s correct for the hazards to work without the ignition on. But not without the switch being on, of course!
Like it sounds like yours is doing.
Only the turn signal circuit needs the key to be turned to ON or ACC.
Same for the brake lights.

When your hazards are flashing and you push on the brakes on these old vehicles, the hazards stop flashing. So it sounds like all that is working as expected other than the hazards in the rear being on all the time.
This is kind of an odd one that I don’t think I’ve ever heard of. Only thing that comes to mind at first is a defective hazard switch.
I’m guessing the 77 has the same integrated hazard with the turn signal switch, as the later models do. Or is there a separate hazard switch on the dash like some earlier models might have had?

 

I meant to ask, when you say you “rewired“ the truck, did you use a premade harness, or just put the new wiring in from scratch? Using the original switches and the fuse panel?

 

Yes. The 77 has the integrated hazard switch. It is brand new.
i rewired the truck completely with the kwik wire harness. Everything is new. I have since switched a couple wires from the column which fixed the rear hazards going off but now, none of the turn signals work. Even with new heavy duty flashers.

 

You can’t trust new parts these days anymore. So don’t just throw new parts at a problem.
If you have a known good flasher, such as the one for the hazards that are currently working, swap it with the other flasher to make sure that the flasher itself is not the issue with the turn signals.

It’s an epidemic of faulty parts now. So putting new parts in a vehicle literally just adds more potential culprits when trying to track down an issue.

When you installed the new harness, did you also renew old and add new grounds?
From the battery, you should have the main ground to the engine block (of course) AND a secondary ground to the body somewhere nearby. One of the bolts to the starter relay/solenoid is often a convenient spot.
Then you should also have a ground strap or wire between the back of the engine and the firewall.

Sometimes on older trucks that have seen lots of surface rust over the years and maybe even new paint jobs, you should add one from the battery (or body ground point) to the core support to brighten up the headlights.

Sounds like the lights themselves are grounded because at one point or another they all worked. So that’s a good sign.
You might call Kwikwire to see if they have any suggestions.

 

Switched flasher cans, tried multiple. All grounds are fresh and even added a few. I’m pretty sure the switch is fine because the signals worked before I switched some things around. (back when the rear hazards where going on for no reason)

 

So, I can not find any resolution to this problem. So I called kwikwire and got nowhere. I am getting 12+v from the flasher wire coming directly from the fuse block even when there are no keys. Should this wire be constant hot even without pulling the flasher **** or even keys in the ignition?

 

yes, as 1ton mentioned above, that circuit is powered all the time, regardless of ignition switch position. you either have a wire crossed which is completing the hazard circuit or the switch is bad and not breaking the circuit as mentioned above.

 

” yes, as 1ton mentioned above, that circuit is powered all the time, regardless of ignition switch position.”
Okay, so I’m going to blame this on chemo brain because I already knew this AND read the answer above so maybe I’m just crazy.
I tested the new switch and it seems to be okay. I also used a power probe to make sure all the lights worked individually. I can not for the life of me figure out how I may have crossed a wire but it’s obviously possible with the way I’ve been working lately. It’s also possible that the wiring diagram kwik wire provides isn’t correct. I do have one big one from classic car wiring and aside from some colors being incorrect (neither the kwikwire or classic diagram are matching the original color codes in the old turn signal switch) everything else seems to match the old wiring I took out.
either way, I appreciate the help. I’ll get back into it tomorrow.
thanks

 

Unless Kwikwire has changed from their traditional habit, all the colors they use are GM color codes.
Which have pretty much become generic in the aftermarket industry.
Some manufacturers do have the option of Ford colors, but not many. So very likely your mismatched colors follow some general motors wiring scheme.

 

I realize this, the color codes I was referring to are those they used to designate the ford colors in both manuals I have.

 

I figured that your other diagram was probably showing Ford colors. Just wasn’t sure.
Unfortunately, it’s all too common, especially in the Bronco world, for the wiring diagrams to only match some years of turn signal switches.
Seems like that was a big change area especially around 73, 74 and 75.
I’ve pulled apart steering columns for six different 73 broncos and Only two of them matched. All the others were distinctly different. To the point that I started making cheat sheets, and instead of just writing the colors down, cutting the ends off the wires, and taping them to a piece of paper with a description of what they did.
I haven’t run across it as often on the full-size trucks, so I have no idea if the changes were as extensive.
And the ones in the Broncos I was dealing with were as far as I could tell were original factory switches.

The aftermarket is crazy with wiring color mistakes.
At least for turn signal switches go that is.

 

if you have the output of the hazard flasher and the output of the brake light switch swapped at the steering column/turn signal switch connector, you will have those symptoms I think...