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Has anyone had success changing a rear oil pan seal without raising the engine and removing the pan? My seal is toast - actually getting pushed out. Lots of threads on removing the pan but wondering if I can sneak a new seal in by lowering the pan.
Can the pan not be removed in a 2WD without removing the engine? I have a 4WD and had to jack up the front to let the axle drop to get clearance for the pan.
If you could do it, you'd be dropping the pan away from an old hardened oil pan gasket along the sides and front too. As long as the crank case can breath freely, there's no pressure pushing oil out, only the squeeze of the pan on the rear pan sealing gasket exist. Look at a gasket in hand and compare to what you see pushed out.
Far as I know, the pan doesn't come off with engine in the truck with a 2wd.
tbear, I agree that getting the pan off with engine in the truck won’t happen. I think I can get 2 to 3 inches of room if dropped. Maybe more if I unbolt and raise the engine and bit. To your point, removing and cleaning the old gasket with little space is likely to be messy.
I tried this in high school when I had a 1977 F100 with a 302. I could only get the pan down about 3 to 4 inches max. The pan will not come completely out due to the oil pump. I was not able to replace the leaking main seal, but I did successfully replace the oil pan seal. It was tricky and I used more RTV than I should have. And, yes, it's going to be messy. I recommend spraying the bottom of the engine with heavy duty engine degreaser and do your best with a power washer before you start. And obviously drain the oil. Good luck!
In my opinion, I would pull the engine, put on the stand, clean it up, change the gaskets and seal. Maybe even check a few main and rod bearings.Install new oil pump.
I did pull the pan on my 300 in a 4x4, NEVER again not worth it. Of course, I did not have a rack so I was working on the floor!!!
Pulling the engine makes for a nice job.
My 02 worth...
why would ford design a truck that couldn't have the oil pan removed without pulling the engine? I think I saw a video showing that the new Kia stinger can't replace the starter w/o removing the engine. who are the designers of these?!
I did pull the pan on my 300 in a 4x4, NEVER again not worth it. Of course, I did not have a rack so I was working on the floor!!!
Maybe was the length involved. It really wasn't bad with the shorter 351M in a 4x4. Biggest thing is just getting the frame securely high enough that the front axle is at full drop.
Maybe was the length involved. It really wasn't bad with the shorter 351M in a 4x4. Biggest thing is just getting the frame securely high enough that the front axle is at full drop.
No it came out pretty good.
Problem is the oil bath, can't see that good, oil dripping everywhere, getting seals to stay in place, oil dripping,
getting everything cleaned up. Old gasket was hard to scrape off and so on OH YEA oil dripping and the LAVA soap shower...
Later, pulled it out and was a piece of cake, really nice job.
Well, I got new oil pan gasket and seals. As you can see from the picture below what I purchased is significantly different than what I see near the rear of pan. I reseal I’m holding on the left hand side is a rubber seal. What is coming out of the rear of the pan appears to be old cork or paper.
I think this particular project will need to wait until the engine comes out at some point in the future. Just not enough clearance in this 2WD to get the job done.
New seal on left - comparing it to what I can see being pushed out of the rear of the oil pan
If I have it right, I never saw this part in cork. I see well what you mean. I don't have a 2wd, I don't know how accessible this rear oil pan lip is. If you were really lucky, might just drop the pan as far as possible and be able to get the old out and the new in place? The danger is old pieces breaking off and fall into the pan to be sucked into the screen.
I don't know any easy way, depends on how much space you can get. It looks like some of the old seal is still in place to the right, not hanging down.
I have done that in the past but getting the oil pump drive rod properly seated is a real PITA. Plus you are working at the 1/2 sit-up position to get the pump and screen in place.
By removing the engine then it will be easier to reseal the engine and change the timing chain, plus a good time to replace the front seal on the transmission if you have an automatic.
I am not sure at all. The new seal is very different than what I see coming down. I am also not sure if my resulting leak is the pan seal or rear main.
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