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Passing connector and wire through firewall for aux light bar
I just upgraded my OEM headlights with new headlight shells (clear flat lens not fluted) and Sylvania 9007 LED bulbs (wires facing down). Big improvement over what I had, but on long stretches of open highway away from oncoming traffic I want more light.
I bought a 18" LED light bar that came with a wiring harness and relay. I need to run the switch (which itself is detachable via molex connector shown below) through the firewall somehow, and am unsure what the best practice is for this.
Could I get some recs preferably where I don't need to cut off the molex and then solder it back on again after, so it can pass through the firewall. The molex is about 3/4" wide by about 1/4" tall - if that.
Cut a slot in one of the rubber dummy plugs then put a dab of silicone when you're finished? I bought Nilight 7" round bumper mount LED spots for my Jeep and while they are super bright, the distance is not great, not much more than the headlights. I'm thinking if I add something roof mounted it might shine out further. Either that or spring for the $600 KC lights. Let us know how the light bar does for distance.
I think the smaller square lights are good for pointing to the side a little to spot wildlife on the side of the road?
If it were me and how I did mine is hook it into high beam wiring. Tie into high beam at headlights to trigger the relay to turn it on. Then it comes on and off with high beam. Just a idea.
If it were me and how I did mine is hook it into high beam wiring. Tie into high beam at headlights to trigger the relay to turn it on. Then it comes on and off with high beam. Just a idea.
That's how I did mine with one exception, they only work when the high beams are on and when the dash rocker switch is on. This way if I want high beams without the LEDs I can switch the dash switch off. I tapped my relay trigger into the high beam indicator light.
I ran wires through this plug by popping it out, drilling a proper sized hole, and slitting it from the side to get the wires over to the hole. It works.
That's how I did mine with one exception, they only work when the high beams are on and when the dash rocker switch is on. This way if I want high beams without the LEDs I can switch the dash switch off. I tapped my relay trigger into the high beam indicator light.
I hate a bunch of extra switches on the dash so I didn't do it that way. Would be simple to do though. In my ranger I did it that way with the stock fog light switch and high beams.
Since mine was an automatic transmission (as most are) I ran my wires through the firewall knockout for the clutch. Plenty of room to cut a larger slot to fit the connector through then some silicone once you get the wiring harness set in the position you want. I RTV'd both sides of the knockout to make sure I didn't have any moisture issues.
If you're curious and careful, you can un-pin the Molex connector...pass it through and assemble it again. Or try Mouser Electronics for a bulkhead connector of the same type. McMaster-Carr might have one too.
If you're curious and careful, you can un-pin the Molex connector...pass it through and assemble it again. Or try Mouser Electronics for a bulkhead connector of the same type. McMaster-Carr might have one too.
I think you have factory pass through wires if you can find those and connect to them.
mine has them tucked somewhere on the drivers side wire harness, I know I have seen them but not sure exactly where.
I ran wires through this plug by popping it out, drilling a proper sized hole, and slitting it from the side to get the wires over to the hole. It works.
Does that cover pop out on the engine side or the cab side? I imagine it could be a pain to access if it removes from the cab side
Here is how it looks on the dash side - you can drill a hole in the insulation foam knockout to make a clean install.
Exactly what I did except I uglied it up with RTV around the pass-through inside and out (on the knock-out, not the insulation). Great minds think alike.
