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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1990 F150 XLT Question for ya;ll

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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 01:18 PM
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1990 F150 XLT Question for ya;ll

I have a problem with my Ford 150. I was driving it and it was working fine until it started to back fire from underneath the truck on the drivers side, it wouldn't go over 20mph, and I had it floored, the smell of gas was real bad, so I turned it off and towed it to a mechanic. Here's the deal, the mechanic says that the computer mod is burned out ( odd) and that is the main reason why the truck is running so rough and won't go past 20 mph. Question is, does this sound right? If the computer mod burned out, would it be acting this way? I'm thinking there is some kind of pressure problem, I may be wrong. Anyways I'm not willing to pay $4000.00 to fix this problem, so I may just sell it for parts.. I'd rather not unless I have to. Can anyone help me figure this out??

BTW I'm not much of a mechanic but, I know my way around an engine.

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 01:38 PM
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Well, it could be the computer. It could also have jumped time on you. Try setting the timing on it.

Backfire? How does a fuel injected motor backfire?

If you don't trust the mechanic, I'd get a second opinion.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 01:44 PM
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Your right. Well, maybe backfire isn't the right way to describe it. When I have the accelerator down the engine acts like its got a dose of bad gas, (studders, and coughs) then theres a loud POP and a knock under the driver side where the fuel filter is. Its odd.

As for the second opinion, I'll get it. =)
 
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 02:41 PM
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I had a catalytic converter plug up on me once, the car would barely move, had no power. There was too much backpressure. Just an idea, best of luck.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2003 | 02:42 PM
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The stuttering/coughing could be low fuel pressure. It makes me think the the pressure regulator is on the fritz. When you hammer the gas, it needs more pressure, and if the regulator sticks, the engine will cough and sputter like it has water in the fuel.

Have you done a fuel pressure test? You can get a gauge at sears for like $30.

The popping noise could be anything. I'd look into fuel pressure first.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 04:35 AM
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Chuckmorell
it seems the mechanic is trying to rip u off. u can go to jegs.com and get a air density to mass air flow kit that includes computer, maf senser, and a wiring harness for under $700.00 and it would also add horsepower
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...51&prmenbr=361
 
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 08:48 AM
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sure sounds like a plugge cat to me. If you can get it running smell it for a rotten egg smell and put your hand over the pipe to see how much is coming out. 99 times out of 100 there is a reasom for a cat going bad like fuel pressure or leaky injector or timing or something so make sure you diagnose it right. I can tell you this if that mechanic took less than an hour to diagnose a bad computer he is full of it. It seems todays mechanics always rule out the comp by replacing it then going on replacing parts from there because they are too dumb to figure it out. I would take it to someone else. Although he could know what he is talking about. I wasn't there. The decision is yours but I wouldn't buy it. I have rarely had to replace an eec-4 computer and usualy it was from a fire or water damage. That was the last reliable computer ford made.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 09:50 AM
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Thanks ya have been very very helpful. I hope I can return the favor soon one day! As it turns out, the computer mod is fine. I had another mechanic check it out and it worked, they are putting in a new CAT Converter and then we're back on the road. I'm still selling it though. Thanks again!!!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2003 | 04:46 PM
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A brand new computer from any Ford dealer is only $250 - remans from parts stores can be had for as little as $150. To change it, you open the hood, remove 2 nuts and back out 1 small bolt that retains the connector, slide the old computer out & the new one it, and reattach the 3 fasteners. If you were blind and only had one arm, it MIGHT take you 2 hours to do. Where the #3!! is this guy coming up with $4,000???

Next time, get a paperclip or a 1" piece of wire and pull the codes yourself.
 
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