"Clunk" at upper\mid passenger rear of engine <solved>
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 28
From: Portal, AZ
"Clunk" at upper\mid passenger rear of engine <solved>
2011 CCLB King Ranch 215k miles, level kit, S&B enclosed CAI
most recent work was reluctant heater change
ForScan used to shut off seat belt minder, Rear sensor (until I get short figured out) and TPMS
at idle I randomly get this clunk as if something is actuating/ disengaging too hard its rather loud too.
From sitting on top of engine and getting underneath I can determine its louder at the rear of the engine, from passenger side, and apx middle of engine, louder from above vs below. .
in this case, When I say engine I mean engine compartment
looking at the coffee table book the only thing I can see that I can figure it might be is the waste-gate?
Now i have no idea how that works or if it even operated at idle. I can tell you that my waste gate flutters after truck is shut off for a min or so.
I haven't noticed it at cruising speeds.
most recent work was reluctant heater change
ForScan used to shut off seat belt minder, Rear sensor (until I get short figured out) and TPMS
at idle I randomly get this clunk as if something is actuating/ disengaging too hard its rather loud too.
From sitting on top of engine and getting underneath I can determine its louder at the rear of the engine, from passenger side, and apx middle of engine, louder from above vs below. .
in this case, When I say engine I mean engine compartment
looking at the coffee table book the only thing I can see that I can figure it might be is the waste-gate?
Now i have no idea how that works or if it even operated at idle. I can tell you that my waste gate flutters after truck is shut off for a min or so.
I haven't noticed it at cruising speeds.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 313
Likes: 100
From: Western NY
Stumped at the moment even after thinking of common items to look at.
You described at idle, you get random clunks but can you be more specific? Only cold, only hot, doesn't matter? After stopping? Etc....the more specific you can describe the conditions leading up to it, the more we may be able to help.
The flutter you describe sounds like the vacuum actuated EGR cooler bypass which cycles after engine is off.
You described at idle, you get random clunks but can you be more specific? Only cold, only hot, doesn't matter? After stopping? Etc....the more specific you can describe the conditions leading up to it, the more we may be able to help.
The flutter you describe sounds like the vacuum actuated EGR cooler bypass which cycles after engine is off.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 28
From: Portal, AZ
Stumped at the moment even after thinking of common items to look at.
You described at idle, you get random clunks but can you be more specific? Only cold, only hot, doesn't matter? After stopping? Etc....the more specific you can describe the conditions leading up to it, the more we may be able to help.
The flutter you describe sounds like the vacuum actuated EGR cooler bypass which cycles after engine is off.
You described at idle, you get random clunks but can you be more specific? Only cold, only hot, doesn't matter? After stopping? Etc....the more specific you can describe the conditions leading up to it, the more we may be able to help.
The flutter you describe sounds like the vacuum actuated EGR cooler bypass which cycles after engine is off.
At idle cold or hot 1st noticed after a long drive and got out to open my gate.
Next day I started it after I fixed DPF line that popped off (my fault not checking 1st time) to clear codes and it was still going on. I did not notice while driving, but will listen harder tomorrow when I head out in town again.
Best I can describe is it sounds like the blend door actuation at Key on with my 04 but several Db louder and not in the cab. It seems random timing and sounds as if its actuating something then releasing it quickly and with a significant amount of force.
When the wind dies down I'll get a video of it from all 5 sides maybe that will narrow down location. I will also get in there with a hose to ear and try and narrow down location even further
I cannot feel it when I put my hand ontop of all the Plastic stuff at the top, nor when I touch the bell housing on trans. or pretty much anything that's cool enough and accessible to touch and way to happen again.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 313
Likes: 100
From: Western NY
Good video - that certainly is not the characteristic typewriter click we get at times.
HMMM - well the first thought that pops into my mind without any hesitation, is looking flywheel/converter bolts (or possibly cracked flex plate). I think I would use a screwdriver or stethoscope to try to narrow the origin down - place it on the side of the bellhousing, top of the manifold, each rocker cover, etc. Sounds can echo around but based on (as best I can) the video, it seems like it may be coming from bellhousing area...?
Side note - at least it appears to be in your video, the transmission dipstick tube bolt which is just above where the tube goes into the transmission on the passenger side - it looks like it is loose and is out a few threads. Not the source of noise but worth correcting.
Does it change if you are at idle with engine running, transmission in drive and holding the brake?
HMMM - well the first thought that pops into my mind without any hesitation, is looking flywheel/converter bolts (or possibly cracked flex plate). I think I would use a screwdriver or stethoscope to try to narrow the origin down - place it on the side of the bellhousing, top of the manifold, each rocker cover, etc. Sounds can echo around but based on (as best I can) the video, it seems like it may be coming from bellhousing area...?
Side note - at least it appears to be in your video, the transmission dipstick tube bolt which is just above where the tube goes into the transmission on the passenger side - it looks like it is loose and is out a few threads. Not the source of noise but worth correcting.
Does it change if you are at idle with engine running, transmission in drive and holding the brake?
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 313
Likes: 100
From: Western NY
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 28
From: Portal, AZ
Good video - that certainly is not the characteristic typewriter click we get at times.
HMMM - well the first thought that pops into my mind without any hesitation, is looking flywheel/converter bolts (or possibly cracked flex plate). I think I would use a screwdriver or stethoscope to try to narrow the origin down - place it on the side of the bellhousing, top of the manifold, each rocker cover, etc. Sounds can echo around but based on (as best I can) the video, it seems like it may be coming from bellhousing area...?
Side note - at least it appears to be in your video, the transmission dipstick tube bolt which is just above where the tube goes into the transmission on the passenger side - it looks like it is loose and is out a few threads. Not the source of noise but worth correcting.
Does it change if you are at idle with engine running, transmission in drive and holding the brake?
HMMM - well the first thought that pops into my mind without any hesitation, is looking flywheel/converter bolts (or possibly cracked flex plate). I think I would use a screwdriver or stethoscope to try to narrow the origin down - place it on the side of the bellhousing, top of the manifold, each rocker cover, etc. Sounds can echo around but based on (as best I can) the video, it seems like it may be coming from bellhousing area...?
Side note - at least it appears to be in your video, the transmission dipstick tube bolt which is just above where the tube goes into the transmission on the passenger side - it looks like it is loose and is out a few threads. Not the source of noise but worth correcting.
Does it change if you are at idle with engine running, transmission in drive and holding the brake?
I did not try in gear, brake etc... I will do that now.
Just putting the palm of my hand on the bell housing its not transferring. also it seems to be above the bell housing.
Wind is PAI today (20mph+) and no garage, during lulls I'll get out and check around with hose-to-ear. followed buy inspection camera but it only has 18in or so lead.
Fuel knock is possible too since I have a #2 injector code P02CF show up now and again, not present at this time though. Not sure what that sounds like but ill hunt for a video.
(P02CF - Cylinder 2 Fuel Injector Offset Learning at Maximum Limit) I am planning on replacing it soon, I was going to do it myself next week, but if I don't get this solved I'm going to take it for this and the injector.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 313
Likes: 100
From: Western NY
Ah that changes thing - that code would be what I would go after. It would be worth following the TSB first to make sure you do not make unnecessary repairs but you may be on your way to a new injector. That code by itself indicates you have a leaking injector and the computer is at the offset limit to balance and manage the desired flow. New injector requires you input the IQA code so regardless, you need a good bi-directional diagnostic scanner for both procedures - TSB and injector replacement.
See this for some explanation https://oregonfuelinjection.com/inje...-codes-or-iqa/
Common question so I will provide my humble opinion ahead of time - unless others are close to the limit (but not high enough to trigger a code) when you scan the balance rates, I would only change the one injector as opposed to all 8.
See this for some explanation https://oregonfuelinjection.com/inje...-codes-or-iqa/
Common question so I will provide my humble opinion ahead of time - unless others are close to the limit (but not high enough to trigger a code) when you scan the balance rates, I would only change the one injector as opposed to all 8.
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Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 28
From: Portal, AZ
Ah that changes thing - that code would be what I would go after. It would be worth following the TSB first to make sure you do not make unnecessary repairs but you may be on your way to a new injector. That code by itself indicates you have a leaking injector and the computer is at the offset limit to balance and manage the desired flow. New injector requires you input the IQA code so regardless, you need a good bi-directional diagnostic scanner for both procedures - TSB and injector replacement.
See this for some explanation https://oregonfuelinjection.com/inje...-codes-or-iqa/
Common question so I will provide my humble opinion ahead of time - unless others are close to the limit (but not high enough to trigger a code) when you scan the balance rates, I would only change the one injector as opposed to all 8.
See this for some explanation https://oregonfuelinjection.com/inje...-codes-or-iqa/
Common question so I will provide my humble opinion ahead of time - unless others are close to the limit (but not high enough to trigger a code) when you scan the balance rates, I would only change the one injector as opposed to all 8.
additional notes I was doing various RPM checks and it only happens at idle. I was going to do in gear test then the wind died down so I went out for hose test.
I have ForScan on my my laptop and phone. It does appear that #2 is the only offender.
I am planning on running through that TSB 1st and see if that corrects it
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