Missing every other cylinder on the firing order
it Has 88k miles and is not a daily driver but is a fun/toy truck with 6 inch lift and 37s has had the emissions deleted and medium cam for several years no problems until now. Always ran rich and got about 7-9 miles per gallon and will burn your eyes out if you stand near the exhaust
cat converter has been deleted
it only has the front tank and the selector thing deleted. and has a on the frame pusher fuel pump
so i pulled spark plugs to see what ones didn't work and it's not running on 1 4 6 7 or maybe 2 3 5 8
literally every other cylinder on the dist. Cylinder not running but seems to be receiving spark and fuel and the lifters are working
i will double check when I get home
it runs rough and obviously no power
same through the whole rpm range but will run and start no problem
Things replaced at my own discretion before problem arose and many miles put on before the problem arose.
New fuel pressure reg with permanent pressure gauge pressure at 35-40 at idle
new distributor
new coil
new map sensor
New o2 sensor
New IAT sensor intake temp sensor
New CTS coolant temp sensor
New remote mounted ignition control module
Since the problem arose i have tried the following
Unplugged injectors and or plug wires to find dead cylinders all injectors rebuilt. Cleaned. Tested with a external battery that they flow and stop flowing. And blew them out backwardsthey all have 12+ volts key on. ground test light to see that the computer is telling the injectors to fire via the ground signal
new cap and rotor and ford oem plug wires and motorcraft spark plugs gapped to .045
replaced fuel filter
the cylinders that dont run i can pull the spark plug wire off and hold it close to the cap and i can see a blue spark jump the gap between the Unplugged wire and the cap
Last edited by Badford88; Nov 26, 2022 at 04:52 PM.
Run codes, either manually with a jumper wire & counting MIL light flashes or the sweep of a meter if burned out. Or pick up a Inova 3145 for about $30.
I'd plug the 2 vacuum AIR solenoids all back in just to keep them from setting codes, there is no help for a removed EGR codes. If no codes (it's never going to give a pass), open up the ECU & check for leaking capacitors
Verify KOEO your remaining pump primes/runs 1-2 seconds, shuts off & sound normal.
Rent a EFI rated pressure gauge & verify rail pressure of 35# idle, #40 with the vac line removed from regulator & no fuel in regulator vac line.
Id pull the the ECU connector & test continuity/resistance on the white and tan wires and all injector connectors.
What the heck do the plugs look like?
Fuel press holds at 35 at idle and drops to 30 and raises back to 35 when applying throttle, and over 40 with vacuum line disconnected
The dry plug was a cylinder that runs and the wet one was on a non running cylinder. Dont mind the white **** i had to get them out of the trash
Found this green wire connected into the test port ? No idea but runs the same plugged in or unplugged
So the fuel pump primes when the key is turned on. The codes will not flash I suppose someone must have removed the bulb when they did the emissions delete.. I will take it to my friend with a scanner
it runs barely enough to drive.. i checked the injector power and ground with the test light hooked to both sides of injector wire. So i would have to have both ground and power at the injector for it to work. If that makes sense. I grounded my test light on the tan / white wires and tested red wire and it was flashing with the speed of the motor rpms
Last edited by Badford88; Nov 27, 2022 at 04:00 PM.
if anyone has a spare in the central mass. Area let me know. Im not sure what im looking at inside of it so i dont dare take it apart.
it has a brand new adjustable fuel pressure regulator
As far as the emissions pumps and plugging them back in, i cant it was done by the previous owner over 10 years ago
I ordered a scan tool my friend didn't realize his scanner did not have an obd1 adapter
I think your ECU is fine. The injector drivers in the ECU seem to be firing the live cylinders ok.
I'd guessing your ignition system is dropping everyother spark for some reason. Very odd and interesting.
Do you have a timing light you can clip on each sparkplug lead and confirm each lead causes the timing light to flash consistantly?
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I checked the routing of all of my spark plug wires to the correct cylinders and correct firing order
And then I double checked which cylinders had no difference when unplugging the spark plug wires
cylinders 5,8,3,2 no difference when Unplugged or plugged in
I then warmed up the truck to operating temp, all koeo codes 31 82 85 84 10
All koer codes 30
also recently I bought a timing set only to realize I had almost no play when turning the crank back and forth in small increments and watching the dizzy spin to look for sloppiness. None was found so i did not do a timing set. And the distributor is also pretty new but have been driving on it a while since I replaced it. The adjustment bolt is tight
Since each throttle blade effects the same cylinders in question (every other cylinder - two inner and two outer on each bank), is it possible there is something blocking one "barrel"? The passages are completely separate all the way to the intake manifold save for two very small holes and the IAC passage. Throttle shaft broken maybe? Just spitballing. Something blocking one of the tubes from the filter?













