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IWE tips/tricks??

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Old Sep 23, 2022 | 05:14 AM
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IWE tips/tricks??

Feeling suspicious of an IWE on my 2011 Raptor.
What I thought was a slight rattle in the front end or even wind/road noise getting past door seal, I now suspect may be being made by an IWE while driving.
It is very faint, but I am hoping to take care of it before it becomes worse if it is an issue.
I did do some searching, reading and found this awesome thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7322441
Seems to describe everything very well.
(Much appreciated)
Just wondering if any other info, tips, tricks, experiences; that I might be on the look out for.
Sounds like I will start checking the vacuum set up and plumbing, raise the tires and spin to see if anything is going on...
go from there.
Once I noticed and thought it might be IWE, I tried to listen closer while driving and went into 4HI.
Like I mentioned, it is quiet and faint, BUT seemed to stop and go away when in 4WD.
Of course, that makes me extra curious if IWE trouble.

I did have a 2004 Expedition that had issues with 4wd not engaging in cold weather.
Had a few times where I wondered if moisture would freeze in the vent possibly?
Throwing that in too in case there is anything relevant that I should look out for or check that might cause an issue like that too.
Since I never really did figure out the Expedition's problem. Replaced the vacuum solenoid, a few lines, but don't know if it was ever REALLY fixed since only happened when really cold.
Appreciate any help, THANKS !!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2022 | 07:15 AM
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Lifted the front end off the driveway yesterday and checked it out a little more.

Driver's side which I was most concerned with seemed OK at first.

Spun tire and wheel forward a bunch and silence.

But when I rotated backwards...click, click, click.

Checked passenger's side to compare, both directions quiet.

Started looking at the vacuum lines to see if anything obvious, but all "looked" OK.

Pulled the dual line off driver's side and it took a LOT of pull to get loose.

To the point of worrying I was going to wreck something.

I will be looking closer and checking more thoroughly before getting to carried away.

Guessing a small vacuum leak could allow what I have happening.

One of my Expeditions did have a broken line under the radiator support years ago.

So I am hoping something easy like that was.

BUT, it is working enough to function.

Engaged and disengaged 4WD a bunch of times.

Both lock and un-lock, just the minimal reverse rotating click click on driver's side.

Time for more detective work.

Appreciate the advice, THANK YOU
 
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Old Sep 25, 2022 | 07:31 AM
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am sure I know this answer, but...will ask anyways.

Anything that can be done to "help" or band aid one of these things?

I have never had on apart or even had to replace one yet.

I am imagining a vacuum diaphragm like a small engine fuel pump moving the splined ring in and out.

Solvent/carb cleaner free things up?

Any Lucas treatment/Slick 50 to lube things up?

Stop Leak to seal things up?







Guessing I am out there a ways, but wondering what next if I do not find any leaks or faulty pieces in the vacuum system.

Again, THANKS
 
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Old Sep 25, 2022 | 06:57 PM
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The IWE is pretty easy to replace and not super expensive. I also replaced the entire vacuum line set with a better replacement part from Forged Off-road. Search their site. Wasn't too expensive either and not difficult to do.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2022 | 04:55 AM
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I had been under the impression IWE replacement was pretty big job.
Thought the wheel, brakes, hubs, axle, all had to come out to get a new one in there.
Did find out last night that it is in fact vacuum lines.
Was glad to find the cause.
Now just need to find a good fix.
Sounds like the Forged Parts may be just that.
I was wondering what I was going to use to replace some of the smaller diameter hard plastic tubing and rubber tees and fittings that are all crispy now.
Reply to my thread on Raptor forum mentioned lines near the top of the shocks were a common place for them to crack.
SURE ENOUGH
As soon as I touched stuff it just cracked, broke, and crumbled.
Temporarily pieced together enough of a connection to get vacuum to the IWE.
The vent is a bit shorter for now, but not planning to hit any swamps soon.
Appreciate the tip on line kit.
Will look for that next.
Getting something like that sounds lots better than me trying to piece and cobble stuff together.
THANKS for the tip
 
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Old Sep 26, 2022 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RSCHAP1
I had been under the impression IWE replacement was pretty big job.
Thought the wheel, brakes, hubs, axle, all had to come out to get a new one in there.
Did find out last night that it is in fact vacuum lines.
Was glad to find the cause.
Now just need to find a good fix.
Sounds like the Forged Parts may be just that.
I was wondering what I was going to use to replace some of the smaller diameter hard plastic tubing and rubber tees and fittings that are all crispy now.
Reply to my thread on Raptor forum mentioned lines near the top of the shocks were a common place for them to crack.
SURE ENOUGH
As soon as I touched stuff it just cracked, broke, and crumbled.
Temporarily pieced together enough of a connection to get vacuum to the IWE.
The vent is a bit shorter for now, but not planning to hit any swamps soon.
Appreciate the tip on line kit.
Will look for that next.
Getting something like that sounds lots better than me trying to piece and cobble stuff together.
THANKS for the tip
Happy to help. Think I saw your other post on the other forum. The Forged lines are plug and play with all the little mounting tabs. I ran mine along with old lines to see how they were routed and attached before removing the old lines.
I guess difficulty is subjective on the IWE. I can swap one out in less than an hour. Fwiw, I found IWEs at AutoZone that are actually made by Warn ( as is winches and locking hubs).
 
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Old Sep 26, 2022 | 10:04 AM
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Appreciate that too.
IF I ever get to where I actually need a new IWE will look at the Warn made one rather than the cheap Chinese stuff I usually start with.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2022 | 04:46 AM
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I think I have the tubing and plumbing OK.
Checked it all over and can't find any other issues now.
A couple "couplers. splices, and repairs and I think it is all sealed up and no leaks.
Dug out my old cheap vacuum gauge and checked all over.
Saw 18" wherever I checked.
In the driveway idling, everything seems to be doing what it is supposed to.
Lift the front end, spins tires, and all good.
BUT...
Still hearing some clicking noise that I am guessing is the driver's side IWE.
Seems to hear it more while suspension is traveling like after a bump in the road and/or turning to the right.
Took another look above the master cylinder yesterday.
Had thoughts of the check valve...?
Puller everything apart up there.
Applied a little suction to the check valve, seemed OK.
All those hoses and tubes seemed alright.
And, I am guessing that the reservoir is OK, but didn't remove that or anything.
All seemed good about 1/2 way to work this morning, though maybe just messing with stuff had helped.
BUT...
started hearing same noise again.
Formerly, as soon as I engaged 4WD, noise would stop.
Took a couple times back and forth today.
???
Getting to wonder more about the check valve....? ? ?
So much fun[img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
 
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Old Oct 5, 2022 | 05:01 AM
  #9  
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Heading home from work yesterday, and all the way in this morning, SILENCE.
So not sure what to think or mess with next.
I hate to spend time and $$ repairing something that doesn't need fixing.
My luck doesn't let anything go away or heal itself, I know better than that.
But if this becomes intermittent and has to need more to track down, ARRGG
You would think I should be used to such things.

Keeping an eye on it, well an ear open.
[img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
VERY much appreciating the help and advice (
need all I can get)

THANKS again ! ! !



One thing that got me curious...
Does the solenoid open up and allow vacuum past to the IWEs for a short time (like a few seconds at start up in 2WD) and then close off with the check valve holding the vacuum and IWEs open?
OR
Is it a constant draw as long as engine is running and 2WD activated?
Most of the diagrams of the system I see show check valves upstream of the solenoid, so I don't think my idea of opening for a few seconds is correct, but I started wondering.
(and that is where trouble usually starts)

[img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 01:28 PM
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2018 Ford F-150 XLT 2WD

I have a 2018 ford f150 XLT 2 wheel drive and seem to have the exact same humming and grinding noise that people with the 4WD have regarding the IWE system.

Even though I have a 2WD, could I have the IWE system and the suspected issues that all 4WD have?

Do I even have the IWE system?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2024 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Alexanderagarcia
I have a 2018 ford f150 XLT 2 wheel drive and seem to have the exact same humming and grinding noise that people with the 4WD have regarding the IWE system.

Even though I have a 2WD, could I have the IWE system and the suspected issues that all 4WD have?

Do I even have the IWE system?
no. No IWE on 2wd. Probably a bearing.
 
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