I just bought an 09 f250 5.4l and got completely fooled. The truck is in decent shape and was a pretty good price but once I got driving for a bit bad things started happening. It started to run terribly and when at idle it sounded like an old diesel tractor. Once I got home I hooked up a scan tool and came up with 10 codes
p0300
p0012
p0022
p0305
p0307
p0340
p0345
p0349
p052B
P052D

I have never owned one of these trucks but this looks bad to me

 

So, I'm far from an expert however here is my input.

Write down codes and the google each.
It will give you back ground.
so you know what your dealing with.

I looked up each of your codes and have these thoughts:

1) engine ran fine for a period of time then hit this breakdown. Multiple modules detected issues. All are based around timing and missfires.
I know if the voltage drops to low the modules will start revolting.
Check battery voltage truck off. 12v?
Then idle truck, check voltage, 14v +/- ?
Charge batteries and start , does it run rough with charged batteries?

2) all these codes point to timing, cam, misfire. I dont believe the moduls went bad all at once. But there is a part that could be throwing all the modules into chaos. Cam position sensor. In front below fan. Has two wires. You can youtube this. About $25. Get the blue purple one if possible.

If the problem is solid I would give this a look. Usually they cause no starts, etc.

But I say this sensor can cause every error shown

after that itll take alot more effort to locate the failed sensor.

There is likely one sensor or module causing all this.

Good luck. And also check youtube. Lots of good info there and on this forum.

 

Thanks. I have been doing some googling and in the middle of doing all the regular maintenance stuff like spark plugs, air filter and change oil. I’ll check into that cam position sensor

 

I did get code p0345 camshaft position sensor bank 2 after clearing the codes and running it again

 

ah not a diesel.

Not sure where the cps sensor is on gas engine. But same idea

 

1) You need to focus on the VCT codes (P052B & P052D) because those can cause the misfires/rough idle which in turn can cause cam position codes to set.

2) There’s a number of known problems with the VCT system solenoids and actuators. One of the most common causes is infrequent oil changes leading to sludge buildup in the cam passages.

Since you just bought the truck, I’d recommend pulling the valve covers to inspect for excessive sludge buildup.

 

Got the plugs changed without breaking any which I hear can be a challenge and changed both can position sensors and it runs better on the highway but still boggy and rough at idle. No engine codes are coming up now though. I guess the next thing I could do then is pull the valve covers as suggested

 

Does this have the Coil Over Plug (COP) setup? On my 6.8, I got a rough idle and lack of power when driving w/o any codes. I purchased a single COP and started changing it with each of the coils till I found a bad one. That plus a new set of plugs and it was running great again. Never could figure out why it did not throw a code.

 

Well after changing the oil and replacing the fuel filter it’s running much better on the highway but still rough at idle. I also got a camshaft position sensor code again even though I changed both sensors. I was reading about using heavier oil to increase the oil pressure as a way to fix this. Is this a good method or just a quick fix until a more thorough repair can be done?

 

Heavier oil is unlikely to resolve the issue as the codes you posted indicate the cam shafts are advanced when they shouldn’t be. If oil pressure was a concern, the actuators wouldn’t be functioning, and you’re more likely going to see codes that indicate cam position is retarded and/or plausibility (cam to crank correlation).

For the cams to be stuck in the advanced position, there’s only a few likely causes:

1) The actuator solenoids are stuck open and oil pressure is constantly applied to the actuators, causing them to remain in the advanced position when they shouldn’t be.

The best way to check is pull them for inspection, but you can test them by providing direct, fused battery power and ground momentarily. Listen and feel for clicking as you make and break contact to ground. Keep in mind, however, that this test can pass but the solenoid can still be stuck open.

2) The timing chain has jumped.

3) The reluctor position of the cams has shifted. Typically this only happens on one bank and one of the tell tale signs is to see the Bank 1 vs. Bank 2 fuel trims are opposing each other (for example, +15% on one and -15% on the other).

4) The reluctor position on the crankshaft has shifted.

If the PCM suspects faulty cam sensor signals, its strategy is to set codes and disable the VCT system until the problem is corrected.

You can narrow down whether this problem is mechanical or electronic by checking vacuum at the brake booster hose. 15-22 in-Hg with little or no fluctuations is normal on a warm engine at idle. Lower than 15 in-Hg or Excessive fluctuations indicates base mechanical problems - normal readings indicate electronic control problems.

 

The 3V 5.4L engine is known for having VVT issues. Sounds like yours might need new cam phasers, and a new VVT solenoid. I'd also replace the timing chains while your at it, and replace the oil pump with the Melling high volume pump.

 

I did get p0022 intake camshaft position timing - over retarded and p052D cold start “A” camshaft position timing over - retarded both on bank 2. It also looks like the front cover on the passenger side of the motor where the camshaft position sensor is has been changed as well as the top plastic cover as they are nice and clean. I was not able to get any information since as best I can tell the guy just bought it at an auction and flipped it out to me to make a few quick bucks. He had a pretty good story of it being a good truck for many years for his family

 

Well I decided to try the heavier oil trick and it runs great now. I changed the oil again which was already quite dirty and put in 20w-50 and no rough idling, no loss of power and no engine codes. I know this should only be a temporary fix so I’m looking into changing the oil pump to a high flow pump. I need to drop the oil pan anyway to change the gasket. Hopefully that is all I will need to do

 

I went back and read through the thread again - I realized I misread post #9 and based my response on the thought that you didn’t have any codes after the oil and fuel filter change, so that’s my bad.

Good to hear you’re on the right track now. I highly recommend searching threads on changing the oil pump and see what kinds of issues others have encountered - if there’s anything that’s true about automotive repair, it’s that nothing is ever as straightforward as it seems.

 

Well I drove the truck for an hour drive on the highway and it ran great all the way but when I got there and stopped it started idling rough and shaking again. It seems the heavier oil has helped but still not completely good. No engine codes came up this time either. I read a couple of threads on changing to a high flow oil pump and am curious what I might find when I drop the oil pan. I haven’t seen anything other than oil mixed with some gas come out through the plug yet though through both oil changes