Hello all,
I am about a week away from closing the deal on a 1993 5-speed F-150 with a blown cylinder eight in its 302 motor. Has ~160k miles on the chassis. I've read a lot about building 302s, swapping for a 351 from both older and newer models, etc. and am a bit conflicted on which approach I should take. Here are some goals of mine:
-Open to both rebuilding and swapping
-Would like to see high 200s, maybe low 300s for torque numbers
-Don't want to break the bank but I'm not on a strict budget. Is $4k reasonable?
-If there are any small things to boost fuel efficiency a few % that would be nice too

Since I'm new to Fords, I'd like some recommendations on what you would do given a pretty blank slate and a lot of options available. Is there a clear path here that minimizes effort while simultaneously maximizing the reward? Are there any glaring issues I should keep a look out for (needing to build transmission or converting to MAF)? I'm open to anything!

 

What does "blown cylinder #8" mean? A blown head gasket? A rod came through the side of the block? The cylinder wall split?

These trucks are old enough that your chances of finding a good low mileage 351/5.8L to swap in are not very good. So probably plan on rebuilding. From here you need to decide if you're willing to mess with the EFI. Without a tune, your best bet for power is the stock 5.8L engine (215ish HP and 325 tq) and matching EFI system. If you're willing to put ~$1000 into it, you can either replace or tune the factory EFI to control any engine you come up with. In this case, I'd lean towards rebuilding the engine that's already in the truck if the block isn't "blown up". In this case, $5000 should get you a machined block, 331 (5.4L) or 347 (5.7L) stroker rotating assembly, either rebuilt GT40 iron heads or budget aluminum heads, a mild roller cam, basic valvetrain upgrades, and an Explorer intake manifold. This should be good for an easy 300+ hp and near 400 ft-lbs.

A 351 will be about the same price, be heavier, use the stock rotating assembly, but you'll be limited by the intake manifold as there aren't any cheap high performance EFI manifolds for the taller deck block. The factory piece is actually worse than the 5.0L version for a performance build.

 

I built my 5.8 roller lifter engine for 3K-ish & got estimated 300+ flywheel, 192/265 dyno verified rea wheel through an E-4OD, long drive shaft w/carrier bearing & peg-leg 3.08 gear & 28 inch tires.

This was running factory SD with no tuning. I did all the work but light machining & balance.

I later changed to factory MAF, ran it for a few years & picked up about 12-20 hp also verified.

I've since picked up a Pimpx ECU for about $1400 that I'm still learning cause I can't test/tune in a consistent manner that won't get me arrested.

I've got a limited slip new in box & rear disc conversion waiting for a few bucks & shop space.

I'd love a set of 24-30 lbs injectors.

Your manual 5.0 will not have MAF, it's a 93, but SD if stock & odds are you have a weaker M5OD manual unless there's been lots of changes.

If it was mine, I'd put a roller 5.8, even if a stock rebuild & one of the new Tremec 5-speeds & sell the 5.0

Also you can use the computer that's in it to run it. May not be 100% optimal, but on average it'll be fine.

 

Agree on stock 351W over any time messed with the 302. More stroke, longer rods, bigger head bolts, etc. With a small cam and full exhaust they run decent, not great, but decent.

Waste no time with production heads, go start looking for used alu heads. Bigger valves, better chamber, less weight. There are pedestal mount alu out there if you shop around hard enough and usually have a smaller intake runner for a setup like this.

Stock 89-93 Mustang ECU and MAF conversion will run that 351W fine, pal has it on his.