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The oil removed was dark and dirty at 59k miles, very little metal on the magnet to my relief. Not too bad considering the weight this truck has moved.
Used Amsoil 75-90 at 4 quarts. Decided to run Amsoil as it was cheaper than the motorcraft and is a better lube. I did ask Ford390gashog about the Shell Spirax he seemed to like, but it was too difficult to source.
If you want to do this for your dually, you will need to source longer bolts and the OEM cover.
The bolts I used are M10x1.5 35mm long, torqued to 35lb-ft. I couldn't find a torque spec for the aluminum cover, so went with what felt appropriate.
I stuck with OEM ford bolts since the organic zinc coating is best, but I imagine stainless steel socket caps would look good as well.
Depending on the year, the housing will look different. The 17/18 trucks have the heavy duty iron webbing vs the lighter webbing on the 19+ pickups. The covers are the same, so no problems there.
The oil removed was dark and dirty at 59k miles, very little metal on the magnet to my relief. Not too bad considering the weight this truck has moved.
Used Amsoil 75-90 at 4 quarts. Decided to run Amsoil as it was cheaper than the motorcraft and is a better lube. I did ask Ford390gashog about the Shell Spirax he seemed to like, but it was too difficult to source.
If you want to do this for your dually, you will need to source longer bolts and the OEM cover.
The bolts I used are M10x1.5 35mm long, torqued to 35lb-ft. I couldn't find a torque spec for the aluminum cover, so went with what felt appropriate.
I stuck with OEM ford bolts since the organic zinc coating is best, but I imagine stainless steel socket caps would look good as well.
Depending on the year, the housing will look different. The 17/18 trucks have the heavy duty iron webbing vs the lighter webbing on the 19+ pickups. The covers are the same, so no problems there.
The oil removed was dark and dirty at 59k miles, very little metal on the magnet to my relief. Not too bad considering the weight this truck has moved.
Used Amsoil 75-90 at 4 quarts. Decided to run Amsoil as it was cheaper than the motorcraft and is a better lube. I did ask Ford390gashog about the Shell Spirax he seemed to like, but it was too difficult to source.
If you want to do this for your dually, you will need to source longer bolts and the OEM cover.
The bolts I used are M10x1.5 35mm long, torqued to 35lb-ft. I couldn't find a torque spec for the aluminum cover, so went with what felt appropriate.
I stuck with OEM ford bolts since the organic zinc coating is best, but I imagine stainless steel socket caps would look good as well.
Depending on the year, the housing will look different. The 17/18 trucks have the heavy duty iron webbing vs the lighter webbing on the 19+ pickups. The covers are the same, so no problems there.
Aluminum cover looks great! I’ve been wanting to get an oem alum cover for my 17 drw.
Isn’t the recommended rear end gear oil weight 75w/140, for our Dana M-300’s?
I replaced mine with an after market finned one that holds 2 extra qts of fluid.
Thanks
I considered the aftermarket cover, but they do impede pinion bearing oiling, which are incidentally the hardest worked component in the M300. Ford390gashog can attest to that.
Banks had a good video demonstrating the fluid dynamics with both a stock and dished cover.
It's also the reason why I chose the 90wt oil, better flow to the head pinion bearing.
It's a bit confusing, the Ford manual specifies 80-90w for the gas trucks with the M300 and 75-140w for the diesel.
What makes it even more convoluted is if you look at the Ford spec number for the diesel, it's the same number for the 80-90w oil.
I had the Motorcraft 80-90W dealership fill for about 59000 miles and the gears looked great.
I asked Amsoil about it and said they recommend the 75-90 for my truck. He mentioned the 75-140 would work, but will rob some HP and milage.
Yeah I agree, It’s frustrating when even the ford manual basically contradicts itself or doesn’t clarify on viscosity grades.
I wonder how much cooler the M-300 runs using the thinner 80w/90? I’ve shot my rear cover after towing and my IR gun usually shows 160-170 F. Not sure how accurate that reading is. I do have 4.10 gears. Not sure if they run any cooler or hotter?
The oil viscosity specified is based on the load the surfaces are going to see. Specifying a higher viscosity for use with the diesel in the same rear end makes sense because it's transferring more torque and rated to tow more load = greater forces = more film strength required. Not using a high enough viscosity can leave you unprotected. More load transferred, or work performed on the gears and fluid, the higher the temp is going to be. The higher the temp the thinner the oil gets and the less protection you'll have at a given viscosity. Possibly forcing a step up to a higher one. If you drive with a light foot and only tow light loads the 75/90 might be just fine. If you use the truck I would stick with the 75/140.
FYI IR guns shoot a cone out the front of them and take an average of what reflects back. So at 6"-12" away from a diff cover it's going to be pretty accurate. If you're shooting from the back bumper of the truck you're potentially going to be picking up an average temperature of the rear end, the ground, exhaust, and anything else in the vicinity depending on the quality of your gun.
This reminds me my F-450 is probably due for some new gear lube.
Anyone have a gold plug? I have one on order to replace my fill plug when I change my diff fluid. This is the one I ordered. It was recommended to me by Tim at Gold Plug because it has a much stronger magnet than the factory style they sell that uses a 3/8" ratchet to tighten/remove. https://goldplug.com/shop/ip04x/
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
