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7.3 stalling

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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 10:31 AM
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7.3 stalling

I have a 2000 7.3 with 153,000 miles. The truck goes into gear just fine and idles but when taking off from a start it stalls out. I replaced the cps and that made no difference. I took it to a transmission shop thinking it may be the torque converter, but they just called me and said it’s not acting like any other truck where the torque converter went out. They took the truck out and said it’s throwing a waste gate code. Any thoughts on what it could be
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 10:44 AM
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Sounds like it could be a sticky exhaust back pressure valve staying closed.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 10:46 AM
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I thought that but the exhaust doesn’t sound like it’s closed and the truck does it more when it warms up
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mplumb
I thought that but the exhaust doesn’t sound like it’s closed and the truck does it more when it warms up
Well, it's easy to check...and better than throwing parts at it...
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 12:40 PM
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You on a 1/4 tank and lower?
oil level?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
You on a 1/4 tank and lower?
oil level?
It’s got half a tank and the oil is right where it’s supposed to be
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 01:29 PM
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Fuel pressure post filter?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 07:50 PM
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Do you know what wastegate code?

I know many trucks throw the exhaust back pressure valve code P0476 with no issues - including mine. I get it when I run the KOER self test that exercises the EBPV, but the valve works just fine, as evidenced by EBP readings on FORScan when it operates.

Is the IPR nut on tight? If loose or missing, the IPR solenoid can move, causing a stall.

Recommend getting data on your ICP, IPR% with FORScan and an OBDII dongle, as well as doing your own code reading. Cheap and effective. How-to thread below.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-q-and-a.html
 
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Old Feb 16, 2022 | 08:34 AM
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X2 on getting Forscan hooked up so you can monitor engine and transmission pid's. In the meantime I'd suggest a thorough inspection of any and all engine/transmission wiring. The 42-pin at the driver's valve cover is a good starting point. Everything looks good you could also try a reset on your PCM. I once had a torque converter lock up problem that was cured by a reset. The reset consists of disconnecting both negative battery cables then jumpering the negative and positive cables together. Be sure to cover the negative posts on both batteries to prevent accidental short.
 
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