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Good morning, guys. My first time in this group. I hang out in the 73-79 Dentside Forum as I have a 75 F100 and a 79 F150..
I live in New Brunswick, Canada and we have long cold winters. I am building a new double garage as part of an addition this summer. It will have 12' ceilings and a hoist on one side. Originally I planned to include in-floor radiant heating but the total cost of that is much more than anticipated. As many of you have I am sure, I have spent lots of time on my back on a cold cement floor. And I am getting too old for that. However, with the hoist, I see no need to spend time on my back so perhaps a propane or electrical heating system would be cheaper and a better option.
In-floor radiant heat would be a must have for any shop I'd build---and yes it IS expensive. Its advantages outweigh its up-front costs, IMHO. A lift OTHO you have to really consider if you'll use it so often it would be a better value than your physical comfort. We don't age backwards so that comfort thing wouldn't be a tough choice for me.
Lift-wise without a warm floor you're still fighting the lack of comfort especially if heating the interior with conventional heating sources. Your feet are still in contact with the "cold" floor and there's no way you'll ever fully ever avoid laying on the floor for something.
There are plenty of portable or movable lifts on the market that would free up a space and still be useful for DIY mechanic work. Not sure about you but warm feet makes a world of difference to me.
Folks tore out the garage floor when doing a remodel and the main reason fo the floor was to mount a few vaults properly and heating. Lots of projects go on in the garage including making ammo and a non paid cabinet maker job for anyone in the family that says "hey dad can you make this for me"?
Dad in almost 80 now and I do not see anything happing in the winter anymore without the heated floor. They also did the bathroom.
What type of in-slab heating? Electric grid or pumped liquid? Not only will that have a large effect on initial cost but, depending on energy costs in your area it will affect ongoing costs. Don't forget, you'll also have to heat the interior space as well unless you super insulate the building and run the radiant heat 24 / 7.
heat does not have to be run all the time. we did a large wood burning boiler on my friends farm, and plumbed all buildings with air handlers. when you want heat in an outbuilding, open the valve. when you leave close it.
most liquid radiant heat systems for out buildings use a non freezing liquid in the system.
Thanks for the input, folks. You have given me lots to consider. I have been planning to use a circulated liquid system. Will investigate electric as well.
The circulated liquid system would be far more energy efficient and it does turn on and off according to the temperature inside the space. Things like "super" interior insulation and under the slab with the tubing greatly increase that efficiency. Once the floor and interior space is heated to the t'stats set point with the right construction the heat is held in the building envelope quite comfortably.
There are probably a million options and points to be considered---talking with a respected contractor and/or specialist in whatever heating system(s) you're thinking about would be a wise move.
Bruce, if you do decide to go in floor make sure that, if you go to a 2 post lift, the lines won't be where you have to drill mounting holes for the lift. Also most 2 post lifts require a 8" minimum concrete thickness.
I have heated garages as well. But in my case, I used wood stove which I must admit is actually fun to have and use. First, where I live, the winters are not extremely cold but the humidity can be extreme. When water vapor due to humidity is in the air, heat transfer is inefficient. In your case, once you get the cement slab warm, the heat will distribute throughout the entire garage due to mass. In some conditions, a single layer of non-insulated concrete may be sufficient depending on the ambient conditions and your area's temperatures. You may want to check some videos on how to install radiant heat on YouTube if you are interested.
X2 on get the heated floor, you can put the lift up later. X100 on know where the hoses are for when it is time to drill for the hoist placement. Once the concrete floor is heated it will help ease the rest of the heating process of the open air shop space. I just put a Mr Heater 50,000 BTU propane ceiling hung unit. And once the concrete floor got heated up it stays 50* very easy in the rest of the shop. I did NOT run any in floor heat at the time I built the shop, because I did not know about it, and its to late now.
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