Problem #1
I am still moving forward in re-restoring my 1938 1 1/2 ton dump originally restored in 1986. When I had the engine pulled they reinstalled it with a lot of modern fittings and I want to put it back close to original. Don't believe they used yellow ignition cord in the 30's.
I got some solid water pipe clamps from Dennis Carpenter but they are "shiny". A good old boy told me in the 80's that there was little shiny in the 30's Ford engine compartment. Do they go back on shiny or should they be dull metal?
They also bolted things back together with modern zinc bolts which can't stay. In the 80's I did not want to pay for NOS bolts which were dull metal with no numbers stamped on the head. I have done a lot of gunsmithing over the years so I got some zinc bolts and clamps at Home Depot, ground off the serial # stamp on the head and "cold blued" the bolts with liquid cold blue. Works like a champ. Got some more blue at Amazon under "Birchwood/Casey Perma Blue" for about $6 for 3 oz. Get 3 and live a little. You can put what you don't use back and reuse it. Can use shop stuff to clean and apply. I found if you heat metal first it goes better.
Problem #2
I got all may gauges working except the oil gauge. It is an electric gauge. I could not get it working on my first restoration so put in an after market below the dash so I don't burn the engine up. Looks tacky and I have tried everything I know to get the original working less taking the gauge out [no easy task I fear] and dismantling it. I cannot get conductivity across the terminals and get no gauge reaction if I but a 6 volt charge across the terminals
Thanks again for all the help in my efforts
Wayne38

 

I haven't ever blued anything, can you do it right over a zinc bolt? What does the final product look like?
You should post some pictures.
If you REALLY want the original look you can order up bolts from Third Gen Auto.

https://thirdgenauto.com/

Early Ford Parts | Third Gen Automotive | Premium supplier of 1940's and 1930's Ford parts. Buy Ford parts safely and easily from our online store.



Kirk

 

If you are still flexible enough to get under the dash it isn't super hard to remove the oil pressure gauge.
From what I remember, the oil pressure and fuel gauge are the same mechanism with different gauge faces and sending units. Grounding the wire that goes to the sending unit should peg the gauge (don't do this for very long or you could damage the gauge). If that works you could try switching the wires between the fuel and oil gauges and see if the oil gauge registers the amount of fuel in the tank...