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2005 F250 5.4 Checked everything still blowing cold air
Hi everyone,
With no sign of a warm-up, I finally had a free day to tear into my f250 work truck to find out why there is no heat.
Just blows cold air
Pulled the HVAC blend door actuator in the glove box, and shaft is rotating when the **** is turned.
drained and flushed the radiator twice.
Replaced the thermostat
New antifreeze at the full line.
The only time it started to blow some heat was when the thermostat was out. (I pulled the thermostat out after I observed the upper hose hot and the lower hose cold)
I did not expect the heat to return to cold after I put a new thermostat back in.
There have been no signs of a water pump failure.
There has never been a sign of the engine temp getting out of normal range.
The heater core inlet temp is warmer than the outlet temp.
Looking for other tests I can run.
I do not see an easy way to hook a hose directly to the core at the firewall.
If no suggestions, I would like to know the downside to just running without a thermostat until I get warmer temps outside.
The heater core inlet temp is warmer than the outlet temp.
Both hoses should be too hot to hold. If not, there is insufficient flow of HOT coolant through the core and heat will be lacking or missing.
Running without a 'stat pretty much guarantees that the heat won't work right, if at all. Put a new Motorcraft thermostat in there, fill and burp the system and recheck.
I do not believe my truck has the HVAC Heater Control bypass Valve. The heater hose runs directly from the water pump to the firewall.
During warmup, Temp gauge always moves to the normal position. I did not see the new Thermosate opening today but that would be a separate issue. Temps are 28F today.
Core blockage or water pump seems to be most likely, but without a water pump, I would expect the temp to spike.
A flush has always worked on other vehicles to bring back some heat.
I have never had issues doing a core-only flush on other vehicles, but having a hard time seeing a good way to hook flush hoses up directly to the core inlet and outlet.
I read one post where they just cut into the hoses, then after flushing, they use a hose union and clamps to join the hoses back up.
Any more thoughts on why running without the Thermostate would be bad for 4-6 weeks as long as I give the truck enough time to warm up. I only ask as I was getting a little warm air when set up this way.
Any more thoughts on why running without the Thermostate would be bad for 4-6 weeks as long as I give the truck enough time to warm up.
Most likely, the engine will never come up to "normal" operating temperature resulting in a mixture that is too rich. That tends to cause ruined catalytic converters due to excessive fuel being dumped into them.
I read one post where they just cut into the hoses, then after flushing, they use a hose union and clamps to join the hoses back up.
The flush kit is exactly what I have used many times. On the 250, I just do not see any easy access to the return line without cutting into them. For the line to the core, I can pull the hose at the water pump.
What would you recommend as the best way to check the water pump? Disconnect line to the overflow tank and look for steady flow?
Also, I do get more airflow with the temp dial on cold than I get with temp dial at hot. Maybe 80% flow. Should the airflow remain the same or is it possible the door is not opening all the way?
Did you burp your system?
Did you test the T-stat to make sure it's not sticking open?
How do the heater hoses feel?
The only way I know of to test to see if a water pump is working on newer vehicles is to remove one of the hoses and see if it's forced out. I saw a video a couple of years ago where a guy took an old upper radiator hose, cut it in half, inserted a clear tube, clamped it all back together so he could watch the flow...But you stated previously that you weren't over heating so more than likely it is not your water pump.
If it were me, I'd make sure you don't have air in the system. If you're confident that you do not, then I'd pull the T-Stat hang it in a pot of water and heat it up to see if the stat is opening if it does, pull it out and wait to see if it closes, or just go but a Ford T-stat and install it. The other guys all gave very good advice.
Does it have a reservoir too? I had a newer work truck that would not get hot air either. The hoses were hot, the thermostat was working, etc.
What we found is the plastic reservoir had a pin hole leak that was so small you couldn't even see it. We noticed a spot of water from nowhere, traced it back.
It was strange, it would empty to a certain point, then only blow air.
If you looked at the reservoir, you would only think it needs topping off.
We changed it out with a new one, as it would not take a patch, problem solved.
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