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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 07:33 PM
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Another rusty drip rail thread

Hello everyone,

i have some rust on my roof and along the drip rails and into the seams at the A and C pillars. I took my headliner out and can see that the rust has reached the the other side of the panel (see last picture). I’m looking for opinions and advice. Primarily with replacing the roof skin.. is there any details pictures of this process or a good diagram of where all of the spot welds are?

ive searched some options here and have come up with 2 approaches I’m considering.

1. replace the roof skin, sand and ospho the area of the A and C pillars that have some rust.

2. sand and ospho the roof skin and the A and C pillar and find some way to treat the rust on the inside of the panel (in the cab).

For option 1, I’ve seen some posts about using panel bond instead of spot welding. Will this require any spot welding at all? Or would I be safe to use panel bond only?
will it hold up to higher temps? I’m in the south.

For option 2, any suggestions really on how you would approach it, especially the inside of the drip rail, it’s behind the roof support and isn’t very accessible.

thanks,

David












 
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Old Oct 13, 2021 | 09:29 PM
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Ya now, I'm in SoCal so I don't really have in knowledge or experience in your weather type conditions. May I suggest you contact a local auto paint supplier and they should have really good, solid recommendations for you.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2022 | 08:40 PM
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Take it down to Bare Metal around a drip rail, clean it thoroughly. Soak thoroughly inside and out with the aspho. Treat both sides with the Aluminum pigmented Permanent rust sealer. This is the only type of sealer that is airtight so the rust can't continue. They have an Extreme version which is a paste consistency for pin holes in deep pitting. I have two pieces outside in the snow 2 years like this with no deterioration . I hope this helps
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Pat Master
Take it down to Bare Metal around a drip rail, clean it thoroughly. Soak thoroughly inside and out with the aspho. Treat both sides with the Aluminum pigmented Permanent rust sealer. This is the only type of sealer that is airtight so the rust can't continue. They have an Extreme version which is a paste consistency for pin holes in deep pitting. I have two pieces outside in the snow 2 years like this with no deterioration . I hope this helps
Yep that is how I would do it as that looks by pictures to mostly be surface rust when the paint peeled back.
Treat it now before it gets worst and you have to replace the roof.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 5, 2022 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Pat Master
Take it down to Bare Metal around a drip rail, clean it thoroughly. Soak thoroughly inside and out with the aspho. Treat both sides with the Aluminum pigmented Permanent rust sealer. This is the only type of sealer that is airtight so the rust can't continue. They have an Extreme version which is a paste consistency for pin holes in deep pitting. I have two pieces outside in the snow 2 years like this with no deterioration . I hope this helps
Thanks for the advice, I’ll give this a try soon.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2022 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Seabass73
Thanks for the advice, I’ll give this a try soon.
This process works well as a pre-emptive strike on all your welded seams. This is good for your cab corners , lower cowl, inside your doors and inside your tailgates. there are rust removers that actually contain zinc. Better for protective layer inside the seams. Permanent rust sealer should be reduced on the first coat for deeper penetration. Full-strength on the second coat. my 1999 still has the rear wheel arches intact just from dumping broken bottles or rust remover in the seams
 
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Old Feb 5, 2022 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Pat Master
This process works well as a pre-emptive strike on all your welded seams. This is good for your cab corners , lower cowl, inside your doors and inside your tailgates. there are rust removers that actually contain zinc. Better for protective layer inside the seams. Permanent rust sealer should be reduced on the first coat for deeper penetration. Full-strength on the second coat. my 1999 still has the rear wheel arches intact just from dumping broken bottles or rust remover in the seams
Thanks Pat. I’ll be sure to give those areas some attention after. Have to tackle one reach wheel well after I do the roof
 
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Old Feb 5, 2022 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Pat Master
Take it down to Bare Metal around a drip rail, clean it thoroughly. Soak thoroughly inside and out with the aspho. Treat both sides with the Aluminum pigmented Permanent rust sealer. This is the only type of sealer that is airtight so the rust can't continue. They have an Extreme version which is a paste consistency for pin holes in deep pitting. I have two pieces outside in the snow 2 years like this with no deterioration . I hope this helps
I got to make an order for that Mastercoat Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer so I can do my 1970 Ford truck frame and body work like you mentioned above. _ Tony.
 
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