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Need help - PM isn’t going to plan

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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 03:16 PM
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Need help - PM isn’t going to plan

So I’m servicing front hub bearing for the first time, was going well until I got near the end of the reassembly. I can’t get the c clip back onto the shaft. The groove for it isn’t protruding enough. I temporary removed one of the 3 thrust washers and it fits, so I’m about .050” off. Tried a few gentle taps on the shaft back at the u joint to see if it had some wiggle room. I might have gained a little but its not where it needs to be. Any ideas are quite welcome at this point.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 03:48 PM
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Take a long pry bar and pry the shaft out towards the hub from the u joint area
 
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Old Sep 23, 2021 | 01:15 AM
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Sure you have them in the right order?


 
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Old Sep 23, 2021 | 05:49 AM
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Thanks guys, I was wondering if drawing the hub back on might have slid the axle back slightly. Yes, I have the order just like the picture. I can get 2 of the 3 shims in before I run out of room to put the c clip on, so its close just not quite correct. Teach me to do preventative stuff….On the plus side, the needle bearing was getting low on grease, but not out, so I got that going for me.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2021 | 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ESwift
Take a long pry bar and pry the shaft out towards the hub from the u joint area
X2. I went through the same thing a few weeks ago. A little pry action and all was good.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2021 | 08:50 AM
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Replaced my front end over the last couple weeks. Had to replace the axle seals, too. Dont go all john henry on things but you can be more forceful than you think, on that assembly. That being said, i had issues with those clips, one broke. I pulled the whole axle, put the assmbly back together on the tailgate, so it was a comfortable working height, and then put it all back, as a unit.
my disclaimer, before you yank yours.. i was already planning a front diff fluid change, before i did that. So i knew if i put grit in the box, i was already gonna clean it. No grit noticed, but R&R the axle, can, introduce dust/rust into the box.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2021 | 06:29 PM
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Yanked on it with a crowbar, no luck, did that twice. Then I held onto the crowbar to keep a little pressure on it with one hand and the snap ring popped right in. The other side hadn’t been done in a longer time, worse to pull out and the seal was bad too. That’s a PITA. But we are on the way back together and I should have it done tomorrow morning. Thanks for the help, I knew I’d get good info here.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2021 | 06:41 PM
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So I did this job to grease the bearings and check things out once. I was hoping new o rings and a new seal might fix my 4wd not functioning. No such luck. Once I put things back together it still didn’t work. Since my defrost was going to vent with 4wd engaged, I pulled some hoses apart and checked the hubs for vacuum. They held, so it was time for a new solenoid on the fender. That did the trick, shift on the fly is working again. Anyone ever manage to repair the old ones? What goes wrong, they seem to ail often from my searching.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2021 | 08:00 PM
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Thanks for the update and closing the loop. I too had a solenoid fail, although I did not attempt to fix it.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2021 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by WNYPSDguy
So I did this job to grease the bearings and check things out once. I was hoping new o rings and a new seal might fix my 4wd not functioning. No such luck. Once I put things back together it still didn’t work. Since my defrost was going to vent with 4wd engaged, I pulled some hoses apart and checked the hubs for vacuum. They held, so it was time for a new solenoid on the fender. That did the trick, shift on the fly is working again. Anyone ever manage to repair the old ones? What goes wrong, they seem to ail often from my searching.
Whilst I have never touched the Vac solenoids on these trucks , one of my previous vehicles had vac operated diff locks and front hubs (Nissan Patrol) . Each had a solenoid. Usually it was the diff lock that failed as it was not used as much as the hub locks. Its a similar kind of valve set up from what I can tell. Simple fact is after a while they rust inside due to moisture. I could not open them without breaking it in a million bits. Plastics after a while were brittle. Also there was no rebuild kits for them which meant the whole thing needed replacement.
The fix was replace it with a MAC solenoid valve. They are industrial so last a very long time, had SS internals, essily mountable as they are not very big and best part was they're cheap, costing less than the OEM valves from Nissan.
I would imagine we could adapt/ use these for our trucks too. Pic is to show one of the many configurations available from MAC






 
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