2001 f250 4x4 brake bleeding tips and tricks
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2021
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2001 f250 4x4 brake bleeding tips and tricks
always been told to keep a vehicle ignition in the run position while bleeding brakes, do y’all do that when you do your diesels? Reason I ask is I don’t want to keep the glow plugs on forever and a day.
also I’ve been told to put some sort of stop behind the break pedal while pumping the break, when bleeding. So you don’t press the break to the floor, and this will allow your break pedal to be more sensitive. Is this true? Or do you put it all the way down when bleeding?
last is do y’all have any tips and tricks to doing this job? My first time doing this, on my first 7.3 and I want it to be done as professional as I can.
any insight is much appreciated
also I’ve been told to put some sort of stop behind the break pedal while pumping the break, when bleeding. So you don’t press the break to the floor, and this will allow your break pedal to be more sensitive. Is this true? Or do you put it all the way down when bleeding?
last is do y’all have any tips and tricks to doing this job? My first time doing this, on my first 7.3 and I want it to be done as professional as I can.
any insight is much appreciated
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,353
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
also I’ve been told to put some sort of stop behind the break pedal while pumping the break, when bleeding. So you don’t press the break to the floor, and this will allow your break pedal to be more sensitive. Is this true? Or do you put it all the way down when bleeding?
Some prefer gravity bleed. Some prefer a vacuum pump bleed with a MightyVac. Some prefer using the pedal to bleed. I tried a Motive Power Bleeder recently on the recommendation of a friend and am spoiled and ruined forever for bleeding brakes.
Not really a good investment if you have one vehicle and bleed brakes once a decade though.
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Dayum... there be some thunder down under.
That space age science laboratory instrument like looking contraption makes the Motive Products bleeder look like a pre school aged Fischer Price toy in the discard bin of Toys R Us.
Give us geeks the deets please.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
always been told to keep a vehicle ignition in the run position while bleeding brakes, do y’all do that when you do your diesels? Reason I ask is I don’t want to keep the glow plugs on forever and a day.
also I’ve been told to put some sort of stop behind the break pedal while pumping the break, when bleeding. So you don’t press the break to the floor, and this will allow your break pedal to be more sensitive. Is this true? Or do you put it all the way down when bleeding?
last is do y’all have any tips and tricks to doing this job? My first time doing this, on my first 7.3 and I want it to be done as professional as I can.
any insight is much appreciated
also I’ve been told to put some sort of stop behind the break pedal while pumping the break, when bleeding. So you don’t press the break to the floor, and this will allow your break pedal to be more sensitive. Is this true? Or do you put it all the way down when bleeding?
last is do y’all have any tips and tricks to doing this job? My first time doing this, on my first 7.3 and I want it to be done as professional as I can.
any insight is much appreciated
When you normally use the brakes you are pushing the rod into the brake cylinder in the usual manner. The area swept by the o rings in there is well travelled and clean. If you depress the brake pedal further then normal the o rings are travelling over unused and prolly rough surfaces, potentially making the o rings issue tiny but poignant screams of anguish as they are ripped up. So if pumping the brakes for bleeding do not press the brake pedal down more than normal.
I really like my Motive power bleeder, makes the job quick and clean.
Do not get brake fluid on your paint. Unless you want the paint gone. That's cool if you want that, not judging.
On edit: keep an eye on the brake reservoir, do not let it run empty or air will be sucked in. Let it get low before adding new fluid, then keep an eye on the color of the fluid coming out at the caliper. When clean close it up. Start with RR caliper, then LR then RF then LF.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA
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Works like the plastic jug type ones but it's got a built in regulator which I liked. Fill it up with brake fluid , connect it up to the reservoir with the adaptor, open the tap on the red pot looking thing and go crack a bleeder on the caliper. I can do it myself and mess free as its all in the kit. Plus the adapters fit most vehicles so I can use it over and over.
I can also leave the brake fluid in it and it shouldn't go off as its fully sealed. Another plus
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 128
Likes: 10
As mentioned above, no key in any position is necessary.
When you normally use the brakes you are pushing the rod into the brake cylinder in the usual manner. The area swept by the o rings in there is well travelled and clean. If you depress the brake pedal further then normal the o rings are travelling over unused and prolly rough surfaces, potentially making the o rings issue tiny but poignant screams of anguish as they are ripped up. So if pumping the brakes for bleeding do not press the brake pedal down more than normal.
I really like my Motive power bleeder, makes the job quick and clean.
Do not get brake fluid on your paint. Unless you want the paint gone. That's cool if you want that, not judging.
On edit: keep an eye on the brake reservoir, do not let it run empty or air will be sucked in. Let it get low before adding new fluid, then keep an eye on the color of the fluid coming out at the caliper. When clean close it up. Start with RR caliper, then LR then RF then LF.
When you normally use the brakes you are pushing the rod into the brake cylinder in the usual manner. The area swept by the o rings in there is well travelled and clean. If you depress the brake pedal further then normal the o rings are travelling over unused and prolly rough surfaces, potentially making the o rings issue tiny but poignant screams of anguish as they are ripped up. So if pumping the brakes for bleeding do not press the brake pedal down more than normal.
I really like my Motive power bleeder, makes the job quick and clean.
Do not get brake fluid on your paint. Unless you want the paint gone. That's cool if you want that, not judging.
On edit: keep an eye on the brake reservoir, do not let it run empty or air will be sucked in. Let it get low before adding new fluid, then keep an eye on the color of the fluid coming out at the caliper. When clean close it up. Start with RR caliper, then LR then RF then LF.
what are the pros and cons to that brake bleeder thats posted above? Never seen, used, or heard of anything like that
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2021
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my goodness I’ve never seen any fancy equipment for bleeding brakes. Why not do it the old school way? What are the pros and cons to this thing you have 😂
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,353
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Bought one of these about a month ago worked great. It took longer to clean up than the job itself....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KY56NCU...roduct_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KY56NCU...roduct_details
The day I used it on the truck, I also used it on 2 other vehicles and it took me less time to bleed the brakes on 3 vehicles than it did just on the truck in the past. I have a few posts around here expressing my appreciation for the ease of use and utility the Motive Power Bleeder brings, but again... If you only have the truck to do and you don't do this sort of thing often, it is likely not worth your cash. That is up to you to decide though, which is why I elaborated on what I went with and am now spoiled by.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 159
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It holds enough fluid to do a full flush.
No need to pump brakes as it's pressurised constantly. I connect the pressure vessel to the reservoir, turn the air valve on, regulator set at about 15 to 20 psi , go back to a caliper, connect the collector bottle so I dont spill nothing, crack the bleeder, once there is no air tighten it back up and it's done. Move to the next one.
The old school way of doing brakes is just that , old school. Ever bled brakes up , drove round a bit thinking they are fine then had your arsehole inhale your drivers seat when your foot sunk to the floor cos some air worked its way from somewhere? I have . Not fun
Cons , beside having to buy it I can't really think of one.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,353
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 128
Likes: 10
Few reasons led to purchase. I do most of the work on my own. My "helpers" are usually preoccupied with whatever tiktok challenge is dope or taking selfies on Snapface or Instatwit cos YOLO .
It holds enough fluid to do a full flush.
No need to pump brakes as it's pressurised constantly. I connect the pressure vessel to the reservoir, turn the air valve on, regulator set at about 15 to 20 psi , go back to a caliper, connect the collector bottle so I dont spill nothing, crack the bleeder, once there is no air tighten it back up and it's done. Move to the next one.
The old school way of doing brakes is just that , old school. Ever bled brakes up , drove round a bit thinking they are fine then had your arsehole inhale your drivers seat when your foot sunk to the floor cos some air worked its way from somewhere? I have . Not fun
Cons , beside having to buy it I can't really think of one.
It holds enough fluid to do a full flush.
No need to pump brakes as it's pressurised constantly. I connect the pressure vessel to the reservoir, turn the air valve on, regulator set at about 15 to 20 psi , go back to a caliper, connect the collector bottle so I dont spill nothing, crack the bleeder, once there is no air tighten it back up and it's done. Move to the next one.
The old school way of doing brakes is just that , old school. Ever bled brakes up , drove round a bit thinking they are fine then had your arsehole inhale your drivers seat when your foot sunk to the floor cos some air worked its way from somewhere? I have . Not fun
Cons , beside having to buy it I can't really think of one.